e-brake not working properly

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Gold Boy

🇨🇦 🇺🇸
SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Threads
193
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2,232
Location
Southern Interior, BC, Canada.
probably pulled a little to hard on the e brake and now the lever has gone very very slack, but when it does lock it's hard to release.
checked all the cables under the 74 everything seems to be fine and lubricated. i think it may be something in the mechanism at the cab e-brake lever end. not sure thoe any suggestion?

cheers + thanks
GB
 
Do the bell-cranks move freely? So far mine are OK, but on my old mini-truck they seized solid after a few years. If they are stuck you'll probably need to disassemble and regrease.
 
bell cranks are the arms on the back side of the rear drums that are pulled by the e-brake cable. They in turn pull a short cable that moves the brake shoe against the drum. Steel passing through aluminum housing with a little rubber boot to help hold in the moisture. Our nice salty winters don't help keep them working.
Try grabbing the cables from underneath and pull - if the cranks move freely then they're probably OK.
 
bell cranks are the arms on the back side of the rear drums that are pulled by the e-brake cable. They in turn pull a short cable that moves the brake shoe against the drum. Steel passing through aluminum housing with a little rubber boot to help hold in the moisture. Our nice salty winters don't help keep them working.
Try grabbing the cables from underneath and pull - if the cranks move freely then they're probably OK.

i tried that yesterday and the there was no slack in the cables.

cheers
 
i tried that yesterday and the there was no slack in the cables.

cheers

I have to give the cable across the axle a kick sometimes to ge the brake to release and make it go slack:confused:
I suspect my bellcranks are bent or worn down
 
I had the same problem, try giving the cables a good boot, if they release then disemble the hand brake leaver and cable to the rear axle and poor wd40 and oil down the cable until it moves easy. I set up a rig so that oil would drip down all night.
It worked for me.
 
Simon, I'd bet on the bell cranks. With the truck parked and the e-brake off go under the truck and pull on the cable that goes across the rear axle. Where it enters the backing plate there is a gizmo called the ballcrank, you should see that move to the center of the truck when you pull the cable and when you let the cable go slack it should return. It is not uncommon for those to get stuck out to the center of the truck. If it seems stuck give it a gentle tap with the hammer and see if it returns. You likely need to dismantle the rear brake and clean each bracket and bellbrank assembly (one each side).

The cause of the jamming is that there is a stainless sleeve inside the support bracket and there is often corrosion between the sleeve and the bracket which then pinches the bellcrank and makes it tough to move.
 
thanks for the informative replies.

i will see if i can loosen those cables today.

:cheers:

bell cranks are the arms on the back side of the rear drums that are pulled by the e-brake cable. They in turn pull a short cable that moves the brake shoe against the drum. Steel passing through aluminum housing with a little rubber boot to help hold in the moisture. Our nice salty winters don't help keep them working.
Try grabbing the cables from underneath and pull - if the cranks move freely then they're probably OK.

I have to give the cable across the axle a kick sometimes to ge the brake to release and make it go slack:confused:
I suspect my bellcranks are bent or worn down

I had the same problem, try giving the cables a good boot, if they release then disemble the hand brake leaver and cable to the rear axle and poor wd40 and oil down the cable until it moves easy. I set up a rig so that oil would drip down all night.
It worked for me.

Simon, I'd bet on the bell cranks. With the truck parked and the e-brake off go under the truck and pull on the cable that goes across the rear axle. Where it enters the backing plate there is a gizmo called the ballcrank, you should see that move to the center of the truck when you pull the cable and when you let the cable go slack it should return. It is not uncommon for those to get stuck out to the center of the truck. If it seems stuck give it a gentle tap with the hammer and see if it returns. You likely need to dismantle the rear brake and clean each bracket and bellbrank assembly (one each side).

The cause of the jamming is that there is a stainless sleeve inside the support bracket and there is often corrosion between the sleeve and the bracket which then pinches the bellcrank and makes it tough to move.
 
At least it doesn't seem very common the cable break or sieze, I assume that's because of the design, and not having a solid sheeth cable all the way back... I know the first time I had to buy new e brake cables for a corolla I put on the road I was quite annoyed at the price....
 
a diagram, just for future reference.
diag_ADK3yp.webp
 
Simon, while you're under the truck have a look at the pivot point where cable from the front joins the cable across the back - looks like pn 48341 on the diagram. That point can get a bit sticky and it might be contributing to the jamming.
Good luck!
 
Simon, while you're under the truck have a look at the pivot point where cable from the front joins the cable across the back - looks like pn 48341 on the diagram. That point can get a bit sticky and it might be contributing to the jamming.
Good luck!

thanks Graeme

will do ...

:beer:
 
I ordered Roodog's rebuild kit for rear drums today. It comes with all the springs,pins,rubber boots and other small parts.
Cost $42AUD
As soon as I get it,Im gonna rip into them and fix them once and for all:mad:
It all started after I left a muddy water crossing and pulled them on too hard because they wouldnt hold.:confused:
 
It all started after I left a muddy water crossing and pulled them on too hard because they wouldnt hold.:confused:

Am I right that they still don't hold??

Check the small cable inside the drum that runs on a rocker thingy. I did the same thing and the cable had popped off. It's not on the drawing above because that drawing has no drum pictures.
 
Based on that drawing it's part #47616 and 47619 that I would check if the brakes are not holding and 47623 and 47624 if they are not releasing.

This of course assumes all springs are good.
 
Am I right that they still don't hold??

Check the small cable inside the drum that runs on a rocker thingy. I did the same thing and the cable had popped off. It's not on the drawing above because that drawing has no drum pictures.

You are right they dont hold very well,even though everything feels tight and adjusted at the lever end.
When I use it I have to get underneath and kick the cable across the axle to make them release,otherwise I can feel them dragging.

Ive had them in pieces twice and didnt notice anything amiss but I will check the rocker thingy as I disassemble them.
I think I got those parts in the rebuild kit

At the moment I am aiming towards a bent bellcrank,is it possible??
 
You are right they dont hold very well,even though everything feels tight and adjusted at the lever end.
When I use it I have to get underneath and kick the cable across the axle to make them release,otherwise I can feel them dragging.

Ive had them in pieces twice and didnt notice anything amiss but I will check the rocker thingy as I disassemble them.
I think I got those parts in the rebuild kit

At the moment I am aiming towards a bent bellcrank,is it possible??

I doubt a bent bellcrank as those are pretty beefy. I've had the cable slip off the rocker thingy and then the rocker thingy get messed up. Sounds like your bellcranks are sticky too.
 
aluminum and steel and water...nasty mix

that design was poor and the usual culprit of bad ebrake situations in places that get rain or snow...
 
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