E-brake Freezing / Icing

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Dec 5, 2006
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Hi All,

I often go up the mountain from sea level (above freezing) and park while skiing.(below freezing temp) If I set my e-brake it will freeze by the time I get back. I can release it by kicking the cable that goes wheel to wheel at the back. I suspected water in the cable that goes from the lever to the rear diff and tried to blow it out with compressed air but it didn't help. Obviously not setting the Ebrake is an option, but it's sometimes nice to warm up the truck in neutral with the ebrake on...

Other than this my brakes work fine, and the bell cranks are nicely lubed and free.. Has anyone had this problem, tracked it down and fixed it?
 
probably moisture in the drum, happens to me occasionaly. park it on level ground over night and leave it in gear, no e-brake. set the e-brake in the morning when you start it.
 
Toyota OEM shoes seem to absorb water. I had that problem every cold day for about a year after I replaced my shoes with Toyota OEM. Finally replaced them again with another brand and it has not happened since.
 
Toyota OEM shoes seem to absorb water. I had that problem every cold day for about a year after I replaced my shoes with Toyota OEM. Finally replaced them again with another brand and it has not happened since.

this is probably better advise than mine. I live on a farm so the worse that could happen if it rolled away is i would have to walk out in the field to get it
 
Thats interesting about the shoes. I have had them freeze to the drums before, but thats quite different than the cable freezing. When the drums freeze, I rock the truck with the clutch and gas until the brakes release with a bang.

The problem I'm having is a little weirder. When I pull the emergency cable, the cable itself gets stuck and the if you release the ebrake handle it has no tension and just falls to the floor - instead of the ratchet on the brake handle holding the brakes closed, there is friction in the cable holding them.

It all works fine in above freezing temps, but I've had this problem for the last 2 winters.

Anyone else come across this issue?
 
That happens on most cars. My Sabb used to have one side lock up in cold weather. I researched and found out your not supposed to set the e brake in certain conditions (any car). Especially if you just stop from driving a lot water will get on the lines and freeze them. Since its mechanical like a bicycle break like, imagine what some frozen water can do if it gets in.
 
I used to work at Timberline lodge ski area in Oregon and this happened to guest cars ALL the time . People driving up from a non freezing wet climate to a freezing climate. most of the time it was the rear drum brakes w/ the ebrake applied . the most common fix was a Big hammer applied to the rear wheels or a propane torch to thaw the ice ... we eventually posted a sign at the entrance warning folks not to use the E brake while parked at Timberline.
 
Great info, we had +8 here on Friday, rain warm made for very sloppy conditions. Parked Friday night, locked eBrake, and then Sunday morning at -20 big crack sound upon going, drum brakes were locked on and no tension in ebrake handle. could smell brakes burning after some highway driving. I got home and parked it in my wifes spot in the garage. Turned on the heat and after thawing out a few hours problem solved!
 
Hmm, I guess I can finish this thread off. After trying to flush the old E-brake cable with solvents and penetrating oils, which helped for a little while, I replaced the entire E-brake line with a new one from Toyota. Pricey, but it works perfectly now and doesn't freeze.

When replacing the old cable I noticed it was missing a little protective boot to prevent water from getting inside. So I assume a few years of water, and probably some corrosion led to a funky line that was always a bit stiff, but would really seize up when the temperatures dropped.
 

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