Has anyone used Dynamat in the doors of the 200? This is going to be my next mod to help with temperature control on the door panels and lower the interior decibels.
Dynamat anyone?
- Thread starter Angelo1
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Yeah, it is called getting Lexus LX.
Personally, i have NEVER gotten much in terms of decibel reduction from putting dynamat in doors with my previous cars. LC maybe different? (I doubt it). Dynamat may help with bass resonance etc from your door speakers.
I think that to get lower noise level inside, you need to dynamat the floor and wheel wells. Much more worth it if you’re gonna go down that road…but way more labor intensive and $$$$.
I did the floors and rear cargo area of our GX but that was because I was adding the Goose Gear plates and removed a lot of carpet and plastic back there. Personally I don't see it as a worthwhile cause in the 200 and you'll never have the double pane glass like the LX either.
I don't think I've seen that done, and would be interesting.
I've done full dynamat in a couple of my previous cars as an audio junky. One of things I learned is that it may not be about how much dynamat you put in. Rather depends more on where the major noise contributors are and where it's applied. Not to say it won't make a difference, but the difference could be minimal if the louder surfaces aren't touched. Probably similar from an insulation perspective.
There's a couple things that come to mind that could be adopted from the LX.
1) Front to rear door gap seals
Sound Insulation LC200
forum.ih8mud.com
2) Acoustic front glass
This might be a major area to attack for the LC that would make a bigger difference. The LX gets acoustic glass. I'm pretty sure that could drop right into the LC. Perhaps invasive and expensive but an option.
To your question, I don't see anything wrong with adding dynamat to the doors. You'll have to try and tell us if it makes any difference. I think it's an easy enough project as the door cards come out reasonably easy.
- Thread starter
- #5
I noticed the interior door panels get and stay pretty cold during winter and adding Dynamat extreme should really help improve that, also during the hot months. It’s not that expensive to do. I know the 100 series folks have noticed a big difference on noise and temperature control.Yeah, it is called getting Lexus LX.
Personally, i have NEVER gotten much in terms of decibel reduction from putting dynamat in doors with my previous cars. LC maybe different? (I doubt it). Dynamat may help with bass resonance etc from your door speakers.
I think that to get lower noise level inside, you need to dynamat the floor and wheel wells. Much more worth it if you’re gonna go down that road…but way more labor intensive and $$$$.
- Thread starter
- #6
Acoustic glass would certainly help but not sure I’m want to spend that kinda coin just yet. Dynamat if anything will make the door sound more solid when closing and less thin.I don't think I've seen that done, and would be interesting.
I've done full dynamat in a couple of my previous cars as an audio junky. One of things I learned is that it may not be about how much dynamat you put in. Rather depends more on where the major noise contributors are and where it's applied. Not to say it won't make a difference, but the difference could be minimal if the louder surfaces aren't touched. Probably similar from an insulation perspective.
There's a couple things that come to mind that could be adopted from the LX.
1) Front to rear door gap seals
Sound Insulation LC200
2) Acoustic front glass
This might be a major area to attack for the LC that would make a bigger difference. The LX gets acoustic glass. I'm pretty sure that could drop right into the LC. Perhaps invasive and expensive but an option.
To your question, I don't see anything wrong with adding dynamat to the doors. You'll have to try and tell us if it makes any difference. I think it's an easy enough project as the door cards come out reasonably easy.
Good to know the 100-series folks report a difference. Give it a try!
LOL, I thought it was getting Michelins for the LX?Yeah, it is called getting Lexus LX.
- Thread starter
- #9
Nothing to lose except some cash. Still less than I’m losing in the market right now
I'm pretty sure the acoustic glass is not just a straight drop in. It may also require that you replace the window regulators (or at least the rail where the glass attaches to the motor. Do-able, but a pretty big undertaking
- Thread starter
- #12
Yeah, I’m just going to give the Dynamat extreme a shot. The noise is fine with me, it’s more to reduce temperature on the door panels. I really noticed it when it’s been in the teens and 20’s. Takes a long time for the inside door panels to warm up.
I don't think I've seen that done, and would be interesting.
I've done full dynamat in a couple of my previous cars as an audio junky. One of things I learned is that it may not be about how much dynamat you put in. Rather depends more on where the major noise contributors are and where it's applied. Not to say it won't make a difference, but the difference could be minimal if the louder surfaces aren't touched. Probably similar from an insulation perspective.
There's a couple things that come to mind that could be adopted from the LX.
1) Front to rear door gap seals
Sound Insulation LC200
2) Acoustic front glass
This might be a major area to attack for the LC that would make a bigger difference. The LX gets acoustic glass. I'm pretty sure that could drop right into the LC. Perhaps invasive and expensive but an option.
To your question, I don't see anything wrong with adding dynamat to the doors. You'll have to try and tell us if it makes any difference. I think it's an easy enough project as the door cards come out reasonably easy.
Good to know on the glass
Well….double pane glass helps with temperature greatly!!
Sorry, just trying to push you to experiment the glass for me.
- Thread starter
- #15
Let me get this priced outWell….double pane glass helps with temperature greatly!!
Sorry, just trying to push you to experiment the glass for me.
- Thread starter
- #16
I had bought a roll of dynamat but never thought about using it in my LC. I used it on my Ford turbodiesel V8 to stop diesel from coming into cabin and to quiet the engine noise inside the cabin. It helped but didn't solve the issue completely. Recently bought a air purifier for the vehicle and put some new air filters.
My LC doesn't get cold, I get very hot and have to shut off heat while driving even in the intense cold. I never notice the panels to be cold but I have a 2009.
My LC doesn't get cold, I get very hot and have to shut off heat while driving even in the intense cold. I never notice the panels to be cold but I have a 2009.
As others noted, my experience is that Dynamat can greatly reduce vibrations from speakers, but it does little for road noise and has an R-value of 0 for insulation. I’ve had excellent results with road noise reduction and insulation in Hondas and Toyotas with products from Fatmat, particularly their hood insulation products.
www.fatmat.com
Hood Liners | Disperse Engine Heat and Noise
Our special hood liners are designed to absorb heat and disperse it evenly without reflecting it back into the engine. They have excellent resistance to heat, moisture, and non aromatic petro chemicals.
www.fatmat.com
I ran a couple days with one of the back quarter panel interior covers off and was amazed at how much noise water in the wheel well made / and how well it was quoted by the trim piece. That piece has a lot of carpet pad type insulation on it. I agree with @Sandroad try something like that.
Another thought would be some stick on cork - it should be non water absorbent and provide good sound deadening for thickness. It will be expensive as all get out though. Cork is an excellent heat insulator.
Another thought would be some stick on cork - it should be non water absorbent and provide good sound deadening for thickness. It will be expensive as all get out though. Cork is an excellent heat insulator.
When it comes to reducing unwanted sound in a vehicle you have 2 types of sound you have to deal with. Vibration, and sound waves.
Vibration:
1. Dynamat dampens panel vibration by bonding a layer of butyl rubber to the panel that is vibrating. You only need ~50% coverage to dampen most panel vibration.
2. The foil backed butyl products (Dynamat Extreme, etc) use a foil and thicker butyl rubber to reduce temperatures that pass through the panel. Coverage is equal to the area you are protecting from heat.
3. Lead sheets do the same thing as Dynamat but with more weight. It adds mass to the panel that is vibrating thereby increasing the amount of energy required to vibrate that panel.
Waves:
1. To reduce sound that isn't vibrating the panel you need an insulation that will absorb soundwaves. Butyl rubber products are a poor performer of this function.
Vibration:
1. Dynamat dampens panel vibration by bonding a layer of butyl rubber to the panel that is vibrating. You only need ~50% coverage to dampen most panel vibration.
2. The foil backed butyl products (Dynamat Extreme, etc) use a foil and thicker butyl rubber to reduce temperatures that pass through the panel. Coverage is equal to the area you are protecting from heat.
3. Lead sheets do the same thing as Dynamat but with more weight. It adds mass to the panel that is vibrating thereby increasing the amount of energy required to vibrate that panel.
Waves:
1. To reduce sound that isn't vibrating the panel you need an insulation that will absorb soundwaves. Butyl rubber products are a poor performer of this function.
Traditionally in homes you would use fiberglass insulation, or rockwool, closed cell foam, traps, etc.
Automotive environments are VERY different from the home environment. They both have different weather resistance, space and weight requirements.
Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is one of the best products to do this in the automotive environment. It's a sealed foam that doesn't absorb water. You have to use 100% coverage for it to block the maximum amount of sound waves. But joints that don't have a good overlap or seal will allow sound to bypass all your hard work. Remember A 1 dB change in a sound equates to about a 26% difference in sound energy and a 3db change in sound is equivalent to doubling sound energy.
Good luck and keep us updated with your results!
