Dual Battery Setup (2 Viewers)

[weejub]

So the new batteries with the new battery boxes simply didn't work. The new battery box's tabs are too wide. The 11" Group 24 box didn't fit well even WITH my radiator overflow removed.

I spent a lot of time trying to get them to fit as well as trying Group 34 At this point with Group 24 or 34, on the right, I am rubbing the fuse box and the wiring on the back of the lamp/lights. It looks like my only option on the right is a Group 35.

On a positive note, I did fab up a nice platform to hold two batteries today. It is a 2x8 (1.5x7.7). It keeps the base of the battery above the wiring on the bottom and provides a cantilever out to the left:

 

[weejub]

I found this pic somewhere of a 1st Gen Tundra (maybe 100?) with two Group 35s (I believe) . . . I would LOVE to be able to get the full set up on TOP of the batteries like this vs running back to the fire wall. He has the small switch with the bigger relay:

 

[weejub]

Well - The 35s are what will work - - To get decent AH and CCA, I ended up going with two of these:

SLI35AGMDP - X2Power Premium AGM Car and Truck Battery at Batteries Plus Bulbs

65AH and 740 CCA

Batteries Plus gave me a pretty good discount, basically 10% off plus $60 of rebates so I netted to $230 each.

Hated to do it, but unless I was going to basically move all three fuse blocks back toward the firewall, this is what works for now.

Sorry @Cruiserdrew :\ I tried hard to make the low-cost option work.

 

[weejub]

OK: How bad is this?


For now, looks like I will have to do the following for my cabling, just to get going this weekend:

Use my standard cables from Alt and Starter - - tie in to one of these down on the side of my wooden platform:

Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems PowerPost with 18 Studs : Speaker Cables : Sports & Outdoors

Run some 2AWG up to my starter battery from the post.

 

[weejub]

How short can I go without needing a fuse from the battery to the switch? < 6"? Like the pic above, looks like I will be putting the switch and relay right on top of the batteries

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Nice and short:

MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 30 to 300A - Blue Sea Systems

 

[NCFJ]

Nice and short:

MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 30 to 300A - Blue Sea Systems

Right there with you. I use a double version of the unit on your link. Used in conjunction with a military style battery terminal it is very sturdy and compact. It also allows you to split your main terminal into two separate circuits. Used with a dual battery set up you essentially have 4 main circuits and can still run starter and winch directly off the main post.

 

[weejub]

Two on order.

 

[weejub]

I screwed up and bought 2 AWG but 5/16" terminals

I have crammed a few 4 AWG 3/8" on two cables so far, that isn't fun either, but all Lowe's had.

Need to find a place that retails higher end stuff like 2 AWG terminals . . .

Any tips on places that may carry something like a 2 AWG x 3/8" hole terminals that is local to NC?

Lowe's - - no
Advanced Auto - - no

 

[weejub]

I have made several cables now with the 4 AWG x 3/8" and they seem to be working fine with the 2 AWG wire I have, so not too worried about it at this point.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Any tips on places that may carry something like a 2 AWG x 3/8" hole terminals that is local to NC?

No but...if you have a good crimper there are great terminals out there.

Good:
Tinned Marine Lugs

Great:
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?2502


Warning, you will spend even more money:
Making Your Own Battery Cables by Compass Marine How To

So the crimper on the marine cruising site is really great. I bought one just because it is really the bomb. But a hammer crimper works pretty well for $20. TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty - Battery Terminal Crimper - Amazon.com

I also have the HF hydraulic crimper that sucks balls. Read to the end of the Marine Cruising site and you will see why.

But damn, you have those crazy $ batteries so go whole hog!

 

[CarolinaFJ]

I thought I read that you don't fuse the cables when you are using a winch. Anyone care to educate me?

 

[weejub]

I thought I read that you don't fuse the cables when you are using a winch. Anyone care to educate me?

I'm going to take a stab at this based on feedback from this forum

The winch lines are not fused because winches pull upwards of 500 amps. Although you can purchase 500+ Amp fuses, it may be a better practice to only have the winch connected when you need it. Ideally, you have something like a Anderson PowerPole that you disconnect and properly stow, or a On/Off switch. If you are driving around with a connected winch, no fuse, it is risky.

 

[weejub]

No but...if you have a good crimper there are great terminals out there.

Good:
Tinned Marine Lugs

Great:
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?2502


Warning, you will spend even more money:
Making Your Own Battery Cables by Compass Marine How To

So the crimper on the marine cruising site is really great. I bought one just because it is really the bomb. But a hammer crimper works pretty well for $20. TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty - Battery Terminal Crimper - Amazon.com

I also have the HF hydraulic crimper that sucks balls. Read to the end of the Marine Cruising site and you will see why.

But damn, you have those crazy $ batteries so go whole hog!

Good stuff, Andrew. Love that Marine How To site.

I will continue to improve the system. My crimps where crappy last night. Going to use the vise today to try to do a better job. Luckily, my cables are short so not as expensive to replace. Plan on doing the 20+ foot of 6 AWG to the back today, though

Using these tin over copper lugs from Lowes or these Amazon lugs:

Shop Gardner Bender 2-Pack Metal Standard Wire Connectors at Lowes.com

Amazon.com: Install Bay Copper Ring Terminal 2 Gauge 5/16 Inch 10 Pack - CUR2516: Car Electronics

This wire:

2 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 VOLT COMBO PACK - BLACK+RED - 10 FEET OF EACH COLOR - EWCS Spec - Made in the USA!: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

This crimper:

E-Z Red B790C Hammer Indent Crimper Tool - Lug Crimping Tool - Amazon.com

So I am doing everything wrong but . . . I will improve it over time. I need to get the truck running again at this point.

 

[concretejungle]

I ordered all my terminals from amazon because i also had a hard time sourcing them locally. Don't know why it's so hard for a local store to carry that stuff, but i guess i'm not in LA or NY...

I did end up finding a few 2AWG terminals at the local advanced auto store, but they were pricey... i think like $3.99/each.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

So I am doing everything wrong but . . . I will improve it over time. I need to get the truck running again at this point.

Nah--you're doing almost everything right, and better than 99% of real shops would do. You'll end up with a great reliable system in the end.

And a head's up if you run out of terminals half way through. West Marine sells the terminals. Not cheap, but if you're 2 short at 5 pm on a Saturday, you can get them there. NAPA also has the plain copper terminals. I got so steamed not having the terminals I needed when I needed, I bought 100 from Greg's marine, and have since substituted with the PowerLugs which I really like too. Funny, I have also used that Temco welding cable from amazon and it is good cable and reasonably priced.

 

[weejub]

Thanks CD - makes me feel a lot better I was watching a guy online crimp and then flux/solder last night, so was feeling PRETTY nervous about my work : )

Couple issues:

1. I am routing the fuse box through the starter battery for now until I understand the fuse box better and how I replace that cable. Both the main Alt/Str line and the Fuse box wire are on a Blue Sea post (bottom left below attached to wooden base), connected with the visible red loomed line that is visible coming up to the +.

2. I am thinking about "going cheap" and using the Blue Sea ANL fuses on top the batteries (see pic). The issue here is I will have 3-4" of cable on either side of a 2.5" ANL fuse.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I like that black poly board you are using. It looks easy to machine and mess with.

Any fuse is better than no fuse. And nothing cheap about the ANL fuse holders you show. Those are really good ones. If you want to see cheap, look at the chinesium ones at the audio store or online.

I think all of mine have at least 1 ANL fuse somewhere, and more recently I've been using the MRBFs which make a ton of sense to me. I did help a non-curiser friend wire his tow vehicle and teardrop trailer, and we set it all up with the MRBFs. He has a super safe and compact system, but all those MRBF holders were pretty expensive.

I agree with @NCFJ the dual MRBF set up is excellent and convenient. My FJ40 uses those in lieu of a fusible link. (I am aware this is not factory, but the entire harness is new and upgraded. The MRBF only protects the main feed of the fuse block and all the truck circuits run from a new fuse block)

 

[weejub]

Thanks to @NC LX for stopping by and giving some great advice for running the 6 AWG back to the rear! We routed well and the line from the house battery back is now done. We also went over several of the ideas. Austin has a background in audio installs, so great to get his thoughts - even on little things like making the drip loops for the lines underneath

Heather helping put in the ground wire:

Full layout on the dual battery switch and relay. Just need three of the 2 AWG 3/8" Hole terminals Hopefully will get those tomorrow and then will move all of this over to the board for final install. Everything in the truck is done - - just waiting on these terminals and to lock everything down on the battery terminals. Looks like I need to swap a battery terminal out as well Can you spot the wrong one?

Got the breaker panel on the electric board and made the Anderson Power Pole connector. Hooked it all up and screwed down. I need to work on my measuring skillz I thought I had to come out the bottom on the positive, but went out the side and now I have some goofy crap, but have to keep it this way for now Used cheap xmas tree light holders to hold the cable. I still am waiting on my ARB socket and cable - - plan B is to see if I can source it locally or on the way.

 

[NC LX]

Ha, my advice it worth exactly what you paid for it. I know enough to be dangerous.

You've done a good job planning it out , taking your time and using quality components.

Essentially the cars I worked on, we would be doing the same installation that you are doing but for different reasons. Reserve for off grid vs reserve for amplifiers pulling power. It wasn't uncommon to keep a car for a month and for an install and to have a $1000+ tied up in just install materials.