Dual battery question (1 Viewer)

[82SC]

So trying to plan my dual battery setup. It will be a DD and an overland vehicle. Towing a patriot camper.
I like the battery swap that Eric S shows on his builds from Ed Martin.
They put the crank on the passengers side which is a smaller space. Limited by the power steering reservoir relocation. And you put the Aux on the drivers side which allows for a much bigger battery.
So for the crank battery there are options

SLEE
$145.00
Group 35 battery

SDHQ
$389
Group 24/34/35 battery

Mole overland
$299
Group 24/34 battery

OZ inspired diesel radiator parts
$~500+??
Plus OZ battery tray Offroaddownunder
$300 AUD
Would be changing radiator to the diesel version as the coolant reservoir and PS reservoir tuck in together allowing for maximum space in the passenger side.
Group N70 battery which is about 12” long
which is about a Group 27

for the crank battery most people seem to run the starter and the winch off the crank battery

so my question is, is there and advantage to push the crank battery size to the max?
I was thinking if I had radiator problems in the future (knock on wood) I might tackle this conversion as I would have to spend on parts anyways. My radiator is the old design but no signs of problems.

I think I already know the answer: SLEE seems to be the most economical and I’m sure their config has worked fine for vehicles that have been through more then mine will.

But maybe his thread can also be a good reference for what options are out there too.

 

[Fisher23]

Which Partriot camper are you getting? X1-N?

I think the SLEE setup lets you run a 31 for the driver side and the 35 on the passenger side engine bay. The bigger battery is good for cold weather. I put 35 on both sides as I don't need that 31 really. I would IMHO run the same sized right and left, from what I read if you tie them together for winching best they are the same batteries. I did use the SLEE bracket on passenger side.

Then in the back I have a Lithium tied in to keep my fridge running and solar on the roof rack. It is separate. Lithium recharges way faster and holds 140amp hours.

I think I have seen guys running a DC charger hooked into those trailers with an Anderson connector to keep the batteries in the trailer charged. I have another Lithium in my trailer. I use those "v" green lithium batteries.

I would just leave the crank battery on the driver side running a 35 and put a 35 on the passenger side with the SLEE tray "unless you will be sub zero alot".

 

[rlynch356]

I don't thinking changing the radiator to the Diesel version is a good idea for a Gas motor, normally they are smaller in the diesel trucks (they don't run as hot so don't need the cooling. I could be wrong with the 200 series but I would not think it was an option.

For the crank battery, in a gas truck, the G34 should be fine, you need to look at the Amp hours of the 2 different batteries and 27 batteries are in the 90 Ah/hr range while something like a PC1500 G34 is 68 AH/Hr.. Do you need the extra capacity for cranking? No not really. The winch should only be hooked up to the main cranking battery (the winch can draw as much as 500 amps on a pull) and needs the alternator directly connected to replenish the battery as fast as possible. IMHO... if you put a G31 in the main battery spot (100 AH/Hr) you can use 50 amps of its capacity (really less..) personally I think its pointless to go that route for a house load (fridge etc..) unless you are doing something like I am with my D90 which is using 2 G34's in parallel with a split charger solenoid when running. I do power a fridge with the Aux battery but that is secondary to combining them for winching (the D90's alternator is limited in size is why, so having 2 batteries when winching is optimal,.
if your wondering I would use a lithium inside the truck or just move the "house" loads to the trailer and hook up a DC//DC charger via an Anderson connector as stated above.

 

[TeCKis300]

I think a lot of desire to put in a second battery often stems from the want to accessorize and gear up in the image of what's done classically. If I were to assess the need based on use case, there's less reason and requirements in the modern day to use the traditional formula for dual batts. With different accessories available (solar, lithium jump starters. lithium batts), and different architecture that create complexity (smart alternators), there's less reason and frankly better ways to do it.

Winches are rarely if ever run off of battery alone. It's done with the engine running with less demand from the battery.

As you have a high end off-road trailer that will be bearing lots of the camping power loads, that further reduces the demand on the TV.

I would suggest a simple high quality single group 31, of the flooded lead acid type because that's what's compatible with the alternator charge profile.

Add a single solar panel, whether portable or installed on the roof, to tie into the starter battery. If you must have dual batts, I would suggest portable lithium batt as that has benefits to the car and the camper in mixed use.