Driving Lights to High Beams?

[landtank]

The problem isn't getting it to start it's getting it to stop. You think an oil drip is a nuisance :'(

 

[T Y L E R]

....You better 'attends' to that my friend ...

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[Docmallory]

RavenTai,

So it sounds like I would essentially set this up like the instructions say, only because of the switched ground on this Toyota, I would connect the ground wire on the relay to the red/yellow wire (which acts as a ground when the lows are off, and not when they are on)

Hmmmm, the 2 relay system definitely works (I did it already), but I like the simplicity of your idea. I may revise my wiring if I get a wild hair.

 

[T Y L E R]

Raventai brings up solid points though .. remember to fuse everything close to the battery , and use much heavier gauge wiring on everything . Keep in mind that since you're drawing power across heavier gauge wiring , and from a much shorter distance that you might end up with brighter lamps ... which is another reason that you might want to pull power , as suggested , to work your lows as well ..

Remember to solder everything really well , and heat shrink it all . Ground can be found a foot or so from the battery on the inside of the fender ... this begins to look like the headlight mod somewhat .

I would also try looking for Georges schematic , as I suggested , and build that .... but if it works already and it's done carefully .. fused etc .. then should be alright . Let us know if you see brighter lows if you go that additional step ...

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[Docmallory]

Well, okay... I work fast. I pulled the second relay out and hooked it all up like RavenTai suggested. Works well that way too, and it looks much better with less wiring.

Yeah, yeah, got the fuses, heatshrinking, 12 ga wiring, flexible conduit, and all that... but didn't solder it. Just used crimped push-type connectors. I need a lot of practice soldering, and this wasn't a good project for practicing. I'll save that for my Halloween props.

I didn't bother to upgrade the low beams. If I'm going to go to all that extent, I'll just get the Slee harness and have something that works well and looks pretty too.

 

[T Y L E R]

At least I can never be accused of looking ...

Took a moment to look at the link posted earlier ... that is the exact schematic that I used to do my upgrade from .... works like a charm . You can email him , he's a nice guy .... if you find the interest , ask him how to tie in the driving lights ... then you'll have everything you need ... brighter highs and lows and driving lights .

Glad what you have is working though ..

T

 

[RavenTai]

I did not know you had already done the 2 realay's, sorry to make work for you

Glad you have it working

 

[Docmallory]

No need to apologize. The change from two relays to one just required moving a couple of connections.... and the install looks much cleaner.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Didn't read the whole thread but here is a link.

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/images/lights.PDF

 

[Docmallory]

Okay, so here's one additional question on this topic:

I wired up my lights exactly as shown in the diagram Christo provided above. I used the switch that Hella provided with the kit until my OEM switch arrives in the mail.

However, this switch has two positions. In one position, the switch is lit and the driving lights come on with the high beams. Fine. But in the other position (what should be "off"), the switch is still lit and the driving lights now come on with the low beams.

I'm guessing that in position 2 the current is coming in "backwards" from the high beam ground wire (which is hot when the low beams are on), through the wire to my switch, and into the ground from the switch. The relay then sees this as current and activates the driving lights.

So, does my theory make sense, and will I have the same problem with my OEM (Camry-type) switch, which has a lit indicator?

I guess my question deals more with how the switch works (rather than the rest of the circuit).

 

[RavenTai]

hmm I am guessing the bulb is connected between the downstream side of the switch to ground, and that your theory is correct the bulb provides a reverse path to kick the relay on , the indicator on the switch goes out when the lights are off correct?

Is the Camry switch the same as most of the other 80 interior switches in that it is only backlit with the parking lights? Or is it like the defrost switch where there in a lit “on” indicator in the switch?

if the new switch has the same problem a diode between the switch and relay or between the relay and the red/yellow would fix it, the diode would drop the voltage about 0.7 volts but that should not give any problem as all it would power is the coil of the relay witch will still work just fine on 11.3-13.8 instead of 12-14.5

 

[Docmallory]

The Camry switch, as far as I know, is only lit when activated (ie, aux lights are on). I had one of these in my last truck, and it did not light up for night-time visibility.

I have been studying up on switches tonight, and it looks like any switch with a light-up indicator would have the same problems - including the Camry switch.

I like the diode idea. It seems like that would solve the problem. I've never dealt with diodes before - is there any special expertise needed in finding, selecting, or installing one?

 

[RavenTai]

for this application you only need to know the amperage and voltage,

16 volts is a common rating for automotive, a diode rated for that or higher will be fine

finding the amperage that the coil of the relay (and therefore the diode) carries may be interesting, you could use an amp meter if you have one, it is likely well below 6a (I would think less than 1a but I am not 100% sure), if so this diode would do nicely:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.a...name=CTLG_011_002_006_000&product_id=276-1661

the diode will allow flow when the black end is “+” and the silver stripe end is “-”, it will stop current flow when the black end is negative and the silver striped end is positive

or put another way the silver stripe faces towards ground

or another way the silver striped end faces the yellow and red wire, the black end goes towards the switch,

you can install it in-line anywhere between the output of the switch and where you tap into the red and yellow “B” wire, either before or after the coil pins on the relay wherever is most convenient, you will have to solder it in, cover the diode and its leads with shrink wrap to prevent a short and add more chafe protection if needed for the location


just so we know we are workign the right problem here, with the aux switch in the off position:

the indicator in the switch is not lit when the low beams are off and the aux switch is lit when the low beams are on correct?

 

[Docmallory]

[quote author=RavenTai link=board=2;threadid=17171;start=msg167114#msg167114 date=1086063602]

just so we know we are workign the right problem here, with the aux switch in the off position:

the indicator in the switch is not lit when the low beams are off and the aux switch is lit when the low beams are on correct?
[/quote]

Correct on both counts.

 

[Docmallory]

OKay, installed the diode (3Amp, 50V) between the switch and the relay. This works quite well.

Thanks for all the help, guys!