Driving down south from the States?

[joshoisasleep]

...if the bandits using improvised roadblocks at night don't get you, unilluminated speed bumps, farm or wild animals or drunks will appear in your path like pop up targets...

I have actually gotten some serious air of those speed bumps more than once, they really do come out of nowhere. They have them in Ecuador too (peruvian speed bumps seem quite mild so far). Fully loaded, I am constantly amazing myself with the impressive strength of the stock FJ62 suspension...

You can't be in control at all times

No I beg to differ. With the awesome machine gun turret, I totally could be.

As far as spike strips... what about mounting your bridging ladders on your hood with an instant deployment motor system or something? Ok so that sounds a little far-fetched...

 

[cruiser_guy]

I have actually gotten some serious air of those speed bumps more than once, they really do come out of nowhere. They have them in Ecuador too (peruvian speed bumps seem quite mild so far). Fully loaded, I am constantly amazing myself with the impressive strength of the stock FJ62 suspension...

Pay attention to your wheel studs and check them each time you get air off the speed bumps. I've lost a wheel near Arriaga, Chiapas, Mexico due to heavy loads and too many Mexican speed bumps. I'm sure that had I stopped to check the studs I would have noticed that I was starting to loose them!

 

[dmc]

x2 buses hijacks are by far the favorite of bandits from Mexico through Central America. As to bypassing Colombia, I worked there for 6 years and the food is great, the people warm and hospitable, the countryside scenery spectacular and the music varied and hot. As such it pains me beyond description to tell you and any one else STAY OFF THE ROADS!!!

Drive through Mexico and Central America. Spend lots of time exploring Costa Rica, the mountains (Volcan Arenal) and the beaches. Then ship your pride and joy to Ecuador, stay far away from the Colombian border, and enjoy the rest of the ride down. A big ditto on not driving in any of these countries on the roads at night. Even in the safest of the countries. if the bandits using improvised roadblocks at night don't get you, unilluminated speed bumps, farm or wild animals or drunks will appear in your path like pop up targets truly ruining your adventure. Hopefully one day soon peace will come to Colombia, but sadly that day is not today.

Because of Chavez and Correa Colombia is not what is was when I was there a few months ago but don't skip Colombia. It's possibly the best country of my trip with Chile as a close second. The roads are waaaaay too crowded to be unsafe during the day time. You'll spend more time trying to pass the hundreds of buses and truck drivers than you will alone and at risk. avoid the bad areas and travel in the day time. i never once felt unsafe there. Even walking around alone at night except maybe in one part of Bogota. the people there are phenomenal and my experience could not have been better.

Costa Rica is pretty much an American Province now unless you get way off the beaten path. Anyone who asks me I tell them go see Colombia before Costa Rica. There is risk in driving I-5 through Socal. Don't allow yourself to miss out on an amazing country because of a little risk.

my thoughts may differ from others here but go spend some time on lonely planet's forum or travellerspoint and you'll find quite a few people who agree with me about the beauty and hospitality of Colombia.
dmc

 

[joshoisasleep]

Because of Chavez and Correa Colombia is not what is was when I was there a few months ago but don't skip Colombia

Argh politics! I just typed and deleted a bajillion replies to that because this is not the place where I should...

 

[dmc]

Argh politics! I just typed and deleted a bajillion replies to that because this is not the place where I should...

yeah i know it's good for a fireside chat not a wheeling forum although it should all be considered when traveling through SA. i've spent most of my time asking questions and listening to locals and keeping my ignorant nose out of it. curious to see how people react to my questions. had i been in colombia 5 weeks ago i would have been freaked out. or still kicking it in bogota. i've learned that nothing is normal or constant down here. FARC is not good regardless but they wouldn't discourage me from going to Colombia again or recommending others to go there and keep their wits about them.
dmc

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Because of Chavez and Correa Colombia is not what is was when I was there a few months ago but don't skip Colombia. It's possibly the best country of my trip with Chile as a close second. The roads are waaaaay too crowded to be unsafe during the day time. You'll spend more time trying to pass the hundreds of buses and truck drivers than you will alone and at risk. avoid the bad areas and travel in the day time. i never once felt unsafe there. Even walking around alone at night except maybe in one part of Bogota. the people there are phenomenal and my experience could not have been better.

Costa Rica is pretty much an American Province now unless you get way off the beaten path. Anyone who asks me I tell them go see Colombia before Costa Rica. There is risk in driving I-5 through Socal. Don't allow yourself to miss out on an amazing country because of a little risk.

my thoughts may differ from others here but go spend some time on lonely planet's forum or travellerspoint and you'll find quite a few people who agree with me about the beauty and hospitality of Colombia.
dmc

Your TRIP??? I spent many years there and not just one trip. I have traveled all over that country, and relevant here, to all of the worst provinces and towns as well as the big beautiful cities. The danger is real and I spent all of my time there, from 1997 until 3 months ago, speaking to victims of it. I speak to friends who live there every night. Folks can do what they want but I will take the word of the families who I have spoken to, (Colombians and foreigners alike) who have had their kids shot and moms and dads taken hostage all while DRIVING ON THE ROADS, over the word of a couple of guys in a chat room. That all having been said my comments were limited to DRIVING on the roads. I love Colombia. By all means drop your Cruiser off in Panama and fly in and enjoy the rich night life of Bogota, the colonial beauty of Cartegena and dance all night long in Cali's night clubs, just don't drive between these cities. Go to Norte Santander and eat fried ants (taste like peanuts), Have some of the best ceviche money can buy and enjoy the great music of Valledupar, just don't drive there. By all conservative estimates there are still between 8 to 10,000 combat hardened terrorists still running loose in that country. Hardly a little risk. The fact that that number has dropped from the 16,000 who were there when I first started to travel there is a testament to how far things have come under the leadership of Uribe and to the good work of a lot of dedicated Colombian cops and soldiers. The roads are jammed during the day because no one will drive them at night. The bad guys watch those roads during the day, crowded with folks who have no choice but to travel them to get home. They wait until the army patrol passes by and drop down from the hillsides and set up illegal roadblocks. They stop every car and bus, and check every ID. If you are not from that nearby town, your are headed with them into the jungle. As part of my job I have talked to the bad guys and they confirm what the victims have told me re: their methods of operation. I am still in contact with families whose loved ones are going into their fifth and eighth year of captivity. You have no idea how much I wish it weren't so but those are the facts. That great country is still quite a dangerous place. An example of what I am saying is taking place as I write this. This is Semana Santa or Holy Week. Like Thanksgiving in America the tradition is for the families who are living in the cities to return their ancestral homes in the provinces. The only way that nearly half of the country's population can move on the roads during this period is by the president ordering cops and soldiers to stand road guard at intervals along the highways and run augmented patrols day and night for the entire week. The strategy works for that week but then the cops and soldiers go back to other duties. FYI: Estado de las vías y carreteras colombianas - ELTIEMPO.COM -> Completa normalidad se reporta en vías del país para los viajeros en Semana Santa

As to Costa Rica, it all depends on where you go. Once we left San Jose and went into the mountains I didn't hear English again until we hit the tourist trap that is La Fortuna. Once we got away from that, no English for days until we hit the beach and met the expat American who owned the surf hotel. GF just told me last night that there is no way, given the state of the road signs and maps, that she would have driven through those little towns as a non-Spanish speaker as she would never have been able to ask directions. That said it was a great trip in a beautiful country, not to be missed.

Guys just my .02. I hope that everybody had a great Easter. Peace, out.

 

[joshoisasleep]

On the above I'd like to note that I've found myself that it is easy to feel safe somewhere even if it's a dangerous place, if you're one of the lucky ones who don't have a problem. Ecuador is generally pretty safe for foreigners, but in the capital of Quito where I'd been for 4 months until recently muggings are fairly common. Just before we left we ended up with a very close call (pulling out weapons and such ), very close to our apartment simply because we'd gotten too comfortable.
What I've heard of colombia supports the above... locals, people who live on the border, and a fellow overlander (in a built 62!) have all told me don't drive, and if you do stick to the Panamerican highway, where there is a large military presence and so you should be ok.

My comment about politics wasn't to say that they shouldn't be mentioned... on the contrary it's important to go over regional politics when giving travel advice. I simply meant that we shouldn't go pointing fingers or offering opinions on who is at fault for what and such. Just to illustrate my point, it is my opinion from what I've read (of the region's history) that Correa and Chavez are less at fault for the instability in this region than the US government, who have constantly instigated and cultivated instability in central and south america since the 1900's and the conception of the Panama Canal by a French guy, back when Panama was still a province in Colombia...
My point was only that if people make political statements, then obnoxious people like me will always come back with their own and then everyone just starts arguing politics, religion, and history... instead of trucks

 

[joshoisasleep]

btw DMC had a look at your website. Awesome trip... I have a SPOT too and the same GPS!

 

[Volcano cruiser]

On the above I'd like to note that I've found myself that it is easy to feel safe somewhere even if it's a dangerous place, if you're one of the lucky ones who don't have a problem. Ecuador is generally pretty safe for foreigners, but in the capital of Quito where I'd been for 4 months until recently muggings are fairly common. Just before we left we ended up with a very close call (pulling out weapons and such ), very close to our apartment simply because we'd gotten too comfortable.
What I've heard of colombia supports the above... locals, people who live on the border, and a fellow overlander (in a built 62!) have all told me don't drive, and if you do stick to the Panamerican highway, where there is a large military presence and so you should be ok.

My comment about politics wasn't to say that they shouldn't be mentioned... on the contrary it's important to go over regional politics when giving travel advice. I simply meant that we shouldn't go pointing fingers or offering opinions on who is at fault for what and such. Just to illustrate my point, it is my opinion from what I've read (of the region's history) that Correa and Chavez are less at fault for the instability in this region than the US government, who have constantly instigated and cultivated instability in central and south america since the 1900's and the conception of the Panama Canal by a French guy, back when Panama was still a province in Colombia...
My point was only that if people make political statements, then obnoxious people like me will always come back with their own and then everyone just starts arguing politics, religion, and history... instead of trucks

Well said

 

[dmc]

On the above I'd like to note that I've found myself that it is easy to feel safe somewhere even if it's a dangerous place, if you're one of the lucky ones who don't have a problem. Ecuador is generally pretty safe for foreigners, but in the capital of Quito where I'd been for 4 months until recently muggings are fairly common. Just before we left we ended up with a very close call (pulling out weapons and such ), very close to our apartment simply because we'd gotten too comfortable.
What I've heard of colombia supports the above... locals, people who live on the border, and a fellow overlander (in a built 62!) have all told me don't drive, and if you do stick to the Panamerican highway, where there is a large military presence and so you should be ok.

My comment about politics wasn't to say that they shouldn't be mentioned... on the contrary it's important to go over regional politics when giving travel advice. I simply meant that we shouldn't go pointing fingers or offering opinions on who is at fault for what and such. Just to illustrate my point, it is my opinion from what I've read (of the region's history) that Correa and Chavez are less at fault for the instability in this region than the US government, who have constantly instigated and cultivated instability in central and south america since the 1900's and the conception of the Panama Canal by a French guy, back when Panama was still a province in Colombia...
My point was only that if people make political statements, then obnoxious people like me will always come back with their own and then everyone just starts arguing politics, religion, and history... instead of trucks

this is not the forum for a history lesson and the number or revolts or puppet regimes the US has funded over the years in Latin America. i agree with you. But the original poster is from Arizona (who speaks fluent spansh) and current politics in regards to Americans is important for a trip. I tend to agree with the majority of the world that FARC is bad and i don't disagree with Colombia entering Ecuador to eliminate a leader. At the same time I couldn't have been more pissed when Bush commited the US to support Colombia with whatever resources they needed if Ecuador and VZ decided to escalate the situation. We already have enough people who hate us we don't need to piss off a huge portion of South America at the same time. Nor should we mix our values into their politicas even more than we already have.

Funny thing is that I spent about 4 hours one night in Quito talking to an expat from New York who had been living there for 28 years. Wife from Ecuador and owns a business there and he warned me that the country was in a transitional period of both good and bad and he wasn't sure where it was headed but that Correa has designs to emulate Chavez which should be a concern for Americans looking to travel there. I never felt any sort of concern and had a wonderful time there but that time may be changing.

I am in NO position to speak of regional politics and what is best for each individual country. i don't pretend to nor to i want to. however i do think i can add my view point on what it is like to travel as an american through latin america and my experience in Colombia was nothing but positive.
dmc

 

[dmc]

btw DMC had a look at your website. Awesome trip... I have a SPOT too and the same GPS!

i love the spot. cheap easy comfort for my family and friends and great for trakcing myself. the gps is 10 years old and is really struggling to acquire satellites. sometimes it takes 10mins. luckily this trip is road based and not backcountry where i would need it. it has had a hard life and i think i got my money worth out of it.
dmc

 

[dmc]

Your TRIP??? I spent many years there and not just one trip. I have traveled all over that country, and relevant here, to all of the worst provinces and towns as well as the big beautiful cities. The danger is real and I spent all of my time there, from 1997 until 3 months ago, speaking to victims of it. I speak to friends who live there every night. Folks can do what they want but I will take the word of the families who I have spoken to, (Colombians and foreigners alike) who have had their kids shot and moms and dads taken hostage all while DRIVING ON THE ROADS, over the word of a couple of guys in a chat room. That all having been said my comments were limited to DRIVING on the roads. I love Colombia. By all means drop your Cruiser off in Panama and fly in and enjoy the rich night life of Bogota, the colonial beauty of Cartagena and dance all night long in Cali's night clubs, just don't drive between these cities. Go to Norte Santander and eat fried ants (taste like peanuts), Have some of the best ceviche money can buy and enjoy the great music of Valledupar, just don't drive there. By all conservative estimates there are still between 8 to 10,000 combat hardened terrorists still running loose in that country. Hardly a little risk. The fact that that number has dropped from the 16,000 who were there when I first started to travel there is a testament to how far things have come under the leadership of Uribe and to the good work of a lot of dedicated Colombian cops and soldiers. The roads are jammed during the day because no one will drive them at night. The bad guys watch those roads during the day, crowded with folks who have no choice but to travel them to get home. They wait until the army patrol passes by and drop down from the hillsides and set up illegal roadblocks. They stop every car and bus, and check every ID. If you are not from that nearby town, your are headed with them into the jungle. As part of my job I have talked to the bad guys and they confirm what the victims have told me re: their methods of operation. I am still in contact with families whose loved ones are going into their fifth and eighth year of captivity. You have no idea how much I wish it weren't so but those are the facts. That great country is still quite a dangerous place. An example of what I am saying is taking place as I write this. This is Semana Santa or Holy Week. Like Thanksgiving in America the tradition is for the families who are living in the cities to return their ancestral homes in the provinces. The only way that nearly half of the country's population can move on the roads during this period is by the president ordering cops and soldiers to stand road guard at intervals along the highways and run augmented patrols day and night for the entire week. The strategy works for that week but then the cops and soldiers go back to other duties. FYI: Estado de las vías y carreteras colombianas - ELTIEMPO.COM -> Completa normalidad se reporta en vías del país para los viajeros en Semana Santa

As to Costa Rica, it all depends on where you go. Once we left San Jose and went into the mountains I didn't hear English again until we hit the tourist trap that is La Fortuna. Once we got away from that, no English for days until we hit the beach and met the expat American who owned the surf hotel. GF just told me last night that there is no way, given the state of the road signs and maps, that she would have driven through those little towns as a non-Spanish speaker as she would never have been able to ask directions. That said it was a great trip in a beautiful country, not to be missed.

Guys just my .02. I hope that everybody had a great Easter. Peace, out.

obviously you have far more experience in Colombia than you first led on in your original post. i'm sorry my tacit post was necessary to get you to type it out for us to learn from. it's very valuable i appreciate it as i'm sure it is by the those on the board. experience like yours is not easy to find. let me see if i can explain myself a bit better now that i have a keyboard and not my phone to post.

there is risk in Colombia. People might call me a hypocrite for skipping VZ because of the risk but endorsing or condoning travel in Colombia. maybe i am. i'm not sure. An American (which is the majority of this board) in endeavoring to travel through Central and South America, takes on a certain amount of risk. It's inherent in overland travel. From the risk of a major breakdown in the middle of the Atacama or Baja to being robbed or accosted at gunpoint it is something all travelers consider. well i hope they do at least. as you well stated Colombia is an AMAZING country and the people are phenomenal in their kindness and hospitality. I weighed the risk before I went there and decided I would see Colombia. After going there I know my life and trip would have been lesser for skipping it. I didn't feel it was worth it to go to VZ. I struggled with the very idea you suggested. Fly to Caracas and see the country from within but forget driving and avoid the border areas. In the end I decided my time would be better spent elsewhere and didn't go to VZ.

Again i'm glad you expounded further upon your initial post and the info is very important. I refused to drive at night. i made sure to ask locals that i trusted where and when to go and was always vigilant of those around me but I still feel the risk was worth the reward. It's an amazing country and I envy you for having spent that much time there. Although it sounds like what you do is very stressful. there is no doubt in my mind i will return. i hope it will be far less tenuous to do so.

again driving through 18 countries by yourself involves risk of many kinds. my own approach is not to tell anyone what to do but provide as much info as possible to help them form their own opinions. sometimes i get to matter of fact in my posts which i try to avoid but sometimes get carried away.

as far as costa rica goes i traveled all regions of the countries except the caribbean and even though there may have been few who spoke english it seems liked there were always signs and menus and gringos on vacation. of course i was one of them. i just prefer the more authentic feel of many of the other countries i visited. don't get me wrong though i loved costa rica. spent a month there and could spend another few years on the Nicoya peninsula alone.
dmc

 

[joshoisasleep]

Yeah my Vista works great... locks in seconds. Maybe I have the CX model or something.

And no dmc I disagree.. I actually think history is very important with this sort of stuff... history is what makes the difference between which people in which country might unilaterally hate you or love you. Anyone with enough interest in South America to want to drive across it should try and learn about why Central and South America are generally, well, so poor. You never know who's got a beef.
My tirade about politics was only aimed at placing blame and offering opinions on who is right and wrong, or who is 'bad'... I just didn't want to see this thread deteriorate into McCarthyism vs the commies.

I would imagine that there is some degree of polarity when it comes to safety for Americans and traveling through Colombia, vs Venezuela... if you take my meaning. Colombia seems to be considered more and more down here to be practically a puppet government to the US, while those following Chavez's lead (those known as Bolivarians, I believe. Correa I think is described as such) are pushing socialist agendas and unity for South America, while stressing the importance of independence from foreign financial and political powers (some going so far as to actually make rules about how companies can treat their workers, or even nationalizing businesses on the basis of 'common good').

I've almost been surprised at the lack of animosity towards gringos so far, regardless of nationality. The only thing I've heard is that lots of places won't allow Israelis in, but that is apparently only because they have a bad rap as travelers, and nothing to do with politics.

 

[dmc]

Yeah my Vista works great... locks in seconds. Maybe I have the CX model or something.

And no dmc I disagree.. I actually think history is very important with this sort of stuff... history is what makes the difference between which people in which country might unilaterally hate you or love you. Anyone with enough interest in South America to want to drive across it should try and learn about why Central and South America are generally, well, so poor. I certainly don't think it's just because people here are dumb.
My tirade about politics was only aimed at placing blame and offering opinions on who is right and wrong, or who is 'bad'... I just didn't want to see this thread deteriorate into McCarthyism vs the commies.

I would imagine that there is some degree of polarity when it comes to safety for Americans and traveling through Colombia, vs Venezuela... if you take my meaning. Colombia seems to be considered more and more down here to be practically a puppet government to the US, while those following Chavez's lead (those known as Bolivarians, I believe) are pushing socialist agendas, while stressing the importance of independence from foreign financial and political powers (some going so far as to actually make rules about how companies can treat their workers, or even nationalizing businesses on the basis of 'common good').

I've almost been surprised at the lack of animosity towards gringos so far, regardless of nationality. The only thing I've heard is that lots of places won't allow Israelis in, but that is apparently only because they have a bad rap as travelers, and nothing to do with politics.

oh history matters. that's why i've been reading up on every country i've been to. like you said i just think it's far too difficult and detailed to go into in this forum when it is meant for 'how will my truck do and can we safely drive through this country' and not a forum capititalism vs socialism etc. i've seen a lot more 'viva fidel' than i have 'we love america' graffiti in the last few months that is for sure.

any chance i get i'll ask someone their views on NAFTA/TLC from the husband of my Costa Rican Spanish teacher who worked for the government control power/cell company to the hotel manager in Cartagena. it helps me better understand the local view point. i've been told by my VZ friends that Chavez sees himself as a modern day Bolivar and wants to reunite the Gran Colombia but again i think it's possible to travel through these countries safely as an American even with very limited skills in Castellano.
dmc

 

[joshoisasleep]

argh you quote me before i made a change... I hate that

Forget Costa Ricans... ask a Canadian about NAFTA! (Oops I've gone too far).

Where are you right now anyway?

 

[dmc]

Rio Gallegos, Arg. No gas to be found in La Esperanza so i came here to hotel and catch up tonight. headed toward Torres del Paine in the morning. then Punta Arenas then Ushuaia. Still working on shipping back home. probably will return to Punta Arenas. Santa Semana slowed down the commuincation process a bit.
dmc

 

[Brasil]

We already have enough people who hate us we don't need to piss off a huge portion of South America at the same time. dmc

You will find that most people in south america are not all that fond of the US. It was never held against me for being American, and everyone wants to go to Disney World. But there is some resentment there. For example why is the US trying to keep the Amazon from being harvested for lumber when there isn't any virgin lumber left in the US? We say environment, they say opportunity. Also another thing that is strange, in brasilian schools they do not teach that the Wright brothers were the first in flight, but that it was a brasilian. I don't remember his name or all the details but he was first and independent of the Wright brothers.

I guess it is best to avoid politics and first in flight when talking to locals. That being said the latin culture is such that they are some of the most loving people in the world and I would be surprised if they held anything against you as an individual.

 

[1tontoy]

There is a distinction made between US GOVERNMENT policy and US CAPITALIST culture.

For the most part, there is envy for US capitalism as it relates to an individual's opportunity to achieve financially and resentment for the US foreign policy.

The two concepts are not mutually exclusive, though. They do facilitate each other.

All that most people in the world want is an opportunity to have a good life and a good life for their family. They want opportunity to progress. Lack of education holds people back in 2nd and 3rd world. Corruption too.

I would venture to say that 9 out of 10 young people in 2nd and 3rd world would trade their life for one in America. So envy overshadows resentment....? And what we see is frustration. My $.02.

 

[Alvaro]

Your TRIP??? I spent many years there and not just one trip. I have traveled all over that country, and relevant here, to all of the worst provinces and towns as well as the big beautiful cities. The danger is real and I spent all of my time there, from 1997 until 3 months ago, speaking to victims of it. I speak to friends who live there every night. Folks can do what they want but I will take the word of the families who I have spoken to, (Colombians and foreigners alike) who have had their kids shot and moms and dads taken hostage all while DRIVING ON THE ROADS, over the word of a couple of guys in a chat room. That all having been said my comments were limited to DRIVING on the roads. I love Colombia. By all means drop your Cruiser off in Panama and fly in and enjoy the rich night life of Bogota, the colonial beauty of Cartegena and dance all night long in Cali's night clubs, just don't drive between these cities. Go to Norte Santander and eat fried ants (taste like peanuts), Have some of the best ceviche money can buy and enjoy the great music of Valledupar, just don't drive there. By all conservative estimates there are still between 8 to 10,000 combat hardened terrorists still running loose in that country. Hardly a little risk. The fact that that number has dropped from the 16,000 who were there when I first started to travel there is a testament to how far things have come under the leadership of Uribe and to the good work of a lot of dedicated Colombian cops and soldiers. The roads are jammed during the day because no one will drive them at night. The bad guys watch those roads during the day, crowded with folks who have no choice but to travel them to get home. They wait until the army patrol passes by and drop down from the hillsides and set up illegal roadblocks. They stop every car and bus, and check every ID. If you are not from that nearby town, your are headed with them into the jungle. As part of my job I have talked to the bad guys and they confirm what the victims have told me re: their methods of operation. I am still in contact with families whose loved ones are going into their fifth and eighth year of captivity. You have no idea how much I wish it weren't so but those are the facts. That great country is still quite a dangerous place. An example of what I am saying is taking place as I write this. This is Semana Santa or Holy Week. Like Thanksgiving in America the tradition is for the families who are living in the cities to return their ancestral homes in the provinces. The only way that nearly half of the country's population can move on the roads during this period is by the president ordering cops and soldiers to stand road guard at intervals along the highways and run augmented patrols day and night for the entire week. The strategy works for that week but then the cops and soldiers go back to other duties. FYI: Estado de las vías y carreteras colombianas - ELTIEMPO.COM -> Completa normalidad se reporta en vías del país para los viajeros en Semana Santa

As to Costa Rica, it all depends on where you go. Once we left San Jose and went into the mountains I didn't hear English again until we hit the tourist trap that is La Fortuna. Once we got away from that, no English for days until we hit the beach and met the expat American who owned the surf hotel. GF just told me last night that there is no way, given the state of the road signs and maps, that she would have driven through those little towns as a non-Spanish speaker as she would never have been able to ask directions. That said it was a great trip in a beautiful country, not to be missed.

Guys just my .02. I hope that everybody had a great Easter. Peace, out.

Certainly there's a huge difference from 1997 to 2008, during the last 3 years or so I have driven many times through remote areas (sometimes at night) and had never seen/felt threatening situations. There's still FARC and others, there's still risk but far less than what the news and others show.

More useful information from travelers Dare2Go.com - Our Travel Journal, covering North-, Central- and South-America

Regards,

Alvaro.

 

[sandcruiser]

Punta Arenas is a great rough n tumble seaport town. Or at least it was 12 years ago. They have a crazy (to me) concoction that they make in a blender w/ Stout beer, an egg, and some other stuff (milk, I think?). I tried *one*. It was interesting.

Back to driving: I have yet to talk to a single overlander in Central America (and I've spoken to a lot of 'em) who would tell you that it is a good idea to drive at night. Don't do it.

Beyond that- I'm frequently amazed at how much personal experience, maybe even luck, play into someone's perception of a given area. Case in point- we were out having a sunset cocktail the other night at a gringo-owned restaurant in what is arguably the most expatriot loaded town in Costa Rica. The person with whom we were drinking was visiting for the first time.

Due to a quirk of tour-but scheduling, the place was packed with spanish-speaking tourists (largely Spain and some South-American accents, almost zero Ticos). Our guest commented a dozen times on how very cool it was to be in the middle of such an authentic Costa Rican hangout.... She'll remember it that way regardless of my efforts to explain to her that it was full of tourists, not Costa Ricans.

If she were here on most days, she would have seen the place full of North Americans (mostly) and had a radically different impression of things.

The point here is that driving through a given area a couple of times may not give a real impression of what that area is like most of the time. I've been in Tamarindo for nearly six years now.... and can get to a small Costa Rican town that is as "typical" as you could want in about 15 minutes. A tourist might never find that town. The folks there are friendly and laid-back, like small ag towns tend to be in most of the places I've traveled.

To bemoan the fact that Costa Rica is adopting many of the habits of the US and Europe is to deny that culture evolves. French snobs and English snobs have complained about their own country adopting the other country's habits for the last 1,000 years or so. They've waged wars over it.

If you put two people in a room together for a few days, they'll start adopting some of the other person's mannerisms. Countries are the same- when they have frequent contact, they mimic each other. Costa Rica has a long history of political stability and a higher level of education/middle class than most Central American (and many South American) countries, as well as a historically homogeneous culture. Instead of putting down armed rebellions in the 80s, CR courted US investment as a way to further the prosperity. The end result appears to be that the culture here isn't as differentiated, not as "Indian" as in much of Central America. That doesn't necessarily mean it is a US outpost (though there are a LOT of gringos here), it just means that Costa Rican culture is different than many other parts of the Americas. That is precisely what attracts so many folks from other countries to settle here, it just doesn't feel radically different from US/Europe in many ways/places. On the surface.

If you want Mayan Culture: go to the Yucatan or Guatemala.
If you want ooooold spanish ruins, there are dozens of forts in the Caribbean and churches throughout the Central Mountains of Central America.
If you want Incas, better look at Peru.

The beauty of Costa Rica is less in the history you find here, and more in the friendly people, awesome beaches, smoldering volcanoes, incredible weather and the fact that we've got 5% of the world's biodiversity in this one itty-bitty little country. The fact that many people speak languages other than Spanish is more an indication of high education not so much US imperialism.

Whew. That was a heck of a rant.

The potholes are big in Costa Rican roads, the shoulders... small. Be cautious. Drive s-lo-w-l-y. It is neither legal nor advisable to drive over 90km/hr *anywhere* in Costa Rica. That's under 56mph. Most "highways" have posted limits of 60. That's kilometers, not miles, per hour. That's less then 40mph.