Drivetrain noise? in 96 LC

[TLCgrappler]

Greetings to all

In my driveway, which has a steep grade, there is a sharp right turn (like a "switchback" on a mountain) right in the middle of the steepest part. If I turn the radio down, as I turn the steering sharply to the right and power up through the turn, I can hear a muffled tapping, which is too slow to be related to engine rpms, and seems to come from under the car. I have finally concluded it must be related to the driveshaft(s) rotation, but I wonder if anyone has a clue regarding what it could be. Its not really loud, but it is clearly identifiable....also, that is the only place I have ever heard it...under uphill load conditions with the wheel turned pretty hard to the right. Never have heard it on the street or highway or at idle. &nbspo I need to retorque some bolts or am I wearing something out?? Have 89,000 on it so far.

Clues are welcome. Thanks

 

[yomama]

TLC,
I don't think your problem is related to the driveshafts. Reason being is you said "when making a hard right turn" the driveshafts don't care that you are making a turn, but birfields and the bearings in your knuckles do. I had a something pretty close to what you are describing that I couldn't figure out for the life of me. My Cruiser took a really bad roll before I bought it and it caused the bearing roller to actaully split in two. I drove it like that for a couple thousand miles before I found it. Not the wheel bearings, but there is another set in the knuckle for turning and so it only happened when I turned sharp. You might want to investigate that.

Yomama

 

[Beowulf]

TLCGrappler,

>> Have 89,000 on it so far. Clues are welcome. <<

Birfields.

Extend your breathers or at least do the breather mod. Follow Jim's article in the tech section of this board and repack your birfields. There is another thread here in the 80 section with the details on the parts and part numbers you will need. If you can determine that this is the first front axle service (scheduled every 60k miles) then prepare yourself for doing a rear wheel bearing repack and axle seal replacement at the same time. Replace the F&R diff fluid.

Don't wait too long. A guy on another list let his go too long and broke 2 birfields on the same trip. $$$$$ One of our group here on ih8mud also had a failed birfield and a big repair bill. You can do it yourself for around $300; a mechanic will charge around $1,200, a lot more if you grenade the birf.

-B-

 

[moralien]

Have 89,000 on it so far.

How long have you owned the cruiser? If you have 89 g's on it and you’re the original owner and there have been no major servicing then it's definitely time to learn how to repack a birfield. It could also be a driveshaft but that’s unlikely. When’s the last time your driveline was greased? The more you put out the more you will get in a Cruiser no matter what year it is. If you don’t own it already some really good toilet reading can be had with a Toyota Factory Service Manual. AKA a Newbie’s best friend.

 

[TLCgrappler]

Ok--I'm gonna get ready to do the birfields. I think you are right about the source of the sound, and no the bearings havent been repacked.

I read all the references on the board, and I do have a service manual. Had been putting off doing this just because it seems intimidating. (plus time consuming--the one guide estimates 4 hours per axle to be safe)

Initial questions are

1. from what source do most of you order Toyota parts. My local dealer has prices like $120 plug wire sets and $25 distributor caps. Need suggestions for a better source.

2. Anyone have a suggestion for where to get the brass bars ("drifts") that you use to rap the parts apart?

 

[moralien]

Grappler; where do you live? Any good tool shop (not a big orange box) but tool shop should have what you need. Don't let it intimidate you. If you have the manual you are all set. There are also some very good resources on the net.

It's not mandatory (though advised) to bust your birf apart. It can get really clean without it. If you only have 89 thousand miles on it a simple repack should suffice. You will still need the drifts. If you don't have an air compressor yet get one. A small cheapie will do but you get what you pay for. You will most certainly need air. Just clean the hell out of everything with brake cleaner and let the air do the work. Lot's of brake cleaner!

Just go to some of the right ups online and follow their advice.
Don't get intimidated it's not rocket science, just really messy maintenece. A fellow lister just paid the dealership to do this for 800 bucks. You will come out ahead no matter how much stuff you have to buy initially.

Toyota parts are expensive but they are the best. You can always call up Jay Marks Toyota and get a TLCA discount. MAF and SOR also sell repack kits...

Good luck... and take your time. If you can’t devote a weekend to it than pay somebody to do the work for you. No extra points will be given for rushing the job.

 

[Beowulf]

TLCgrappler,

You can get the brass drift set at Harbor Freight if you have a local outlet. If not, they have a web site. About $8.

For cleaning you can get bulk solvent, bought by the gallon at a local fueling station that specializes in racing fuels and greases. Check the yellow pages for something similar. It is the same stuff the mechanics use in their parts cleaners. It's much cheaper though it doesn't offer the same buzz you get from sniffing brake cleaner. :G

Please carefully read my first reply to you. You have IM.

-B-