Driveshaft Clunk! (1 Viewer)

[eseel]

I have the infamous clunk in the driveshaft. Instead of continuing to grease it, I thought I might just bite the bullet and replace it. Has anyone purchased this one from Amazon and if so any thoughts?

Amazon product ASIN B08VHTM79G
Thanks in advance.

 

[Sixto Lezcano]

Just my opinion, but if you buy that you won’t be biting a bullet, you’ll be chomping on a s*** sandwich.
Highly suggest OEM.

 

[elprup87]

I didn't dare look to Amazon for something like this part, and I just ordered shafts for the GX! Many a item I have sourced from Amazon, but for an item like the driveshaft I too recommend OEM. I plan on installing them next week.

 

[Bleu62]

Unless you take this off-road, and articulate your vehicle a lot, 99.9% of the time all the grease is just out. Put it on jack’s and let everything droop before you grease it. If you don’t the clunk comes back.

 

[tlin]

I have the infamous clunk in the driveshaft. Instead of continuing to grease it, I thought I might just bite the bullet and replace it. Has anyone purchased this one from Amazon and if so any thoughts?

Amazon product ASIN B08VHTM79G
Thanks in advance.

I replaced my DS with OEM - wasn't very expensive at all. F Prime, run down to your dealer and get the right part.

My local Toyota dealership offers discounts to TLCA members. It's worth asking if yours does as well....

 

[waynegro]

I drove around 20k miles from 160-180k with the infamous clunk. Greasing it often helped lessen the severity of it and the frequency of it. But it was still there. I finally bit the bullet and and got a new driveshaft from Lexus (around $450) install is easy. Clunk is gone now, the vehicle is much more pleasurable to drive and smoother.

 

[fvedmo]

I thought I read once it was different greases for the spider and the shaft, is that the case? Once upon a time there were two separate greases spec'd by Toyota, that was later condensed to a single grease, moly is generally seems to be considered OK, and you want the grease to be NLGI Grade 2.

If you jack it for full droop do you add until you get seepage, I've heard just give it 2/3 pumps vs add until you get seepage, but I've read some people say thats too much, halp. Driveshaft recommendations seems to be all over the place from grease until the shaft starts to extend, vs just give it a pump or two when you do the U-joints, to only add when clunking, the main concern is adding too much grease and until your shaft is no longer able to compress reducing the travel and translating that force to other areas that aren't meant to absorb it.

 

[utah470gx]

Air suspension conversion almost entirely removed my driveshaft clunk. Save your money and use it on that.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Air suspension conversion almost entirely removed my driveshaft clunk. Save your money and use it on that.

That didn’t work for me. I converted from air springs to coils and the DS clunk remained.

I did read an interesting repair blog like repairpal and they mentioned that the fix was both the upgraded rear DS and upgraded rear control arms. That’s the first I’ve ever heard that there were upgraded rear control arms from Lexus.

 

[elprup87]

Interesting about the rear control arms. I can't tell for certain where my clunk is from but it does seem to feel like the front. I have not replaced ball joints or rear control arms. I may look at the ball joints soon. Given that I have coils in the rear, any mention of airbags don't apply in my case. I need to replace the panhard bar, but I doubt that would be the cause of the noise.

I have not had the opportunity to run the rig through tests recently as I have been working, which means I am towing a trailer. Not the best setup to figure out "acceleration from a dead stop" noises. However, I dont seem to hear it since I changed the front end diff fluid. No idea if the two are related.

 

[Rednexus]

Very interesting on the rear control arms as well. I had the clunk as well, and greasing muted it slightly. When I lifted my GX and did a coil conversion I also replaced all of the rear control arms (upper and lower) with Moog arms ($130 for all 4 on Rock Auto) and haven't had the clunk since! No idea if it was the lift/coil conversion or the rear arms, but the rear arms are cheap enough you might want to try it. I had not put 2 and 2 together until I read this thread.

 

[VSPro9]

Are dorman driveshafts ok, or do i really need the OEM?

 

[eL PeReZ eSe]

in my case, I went below the GX, check on the driveshaft and had a lot of play on the U-joints. went with the cheapest option just to be sure that was the problem. I replaced the joints myself with ones from Pep Boys. No problem since. 60k miles and still running fine.

 

[Nailhead]

Old TSB on driveshaft clunk, L-SB-0116-08. For some reason it won't attach to this post

 

[aztoytec]

Are dorman driveshafts ok, or do i really need the

Are dorman driveshafts ok, or do i really need the OEM?

I’ve had good luck with Dorman products. I would try it, especially at your mileage!!!

 

[jiggletits]

Shop online, the OEM part was maybe $300 when I did mine.

Don’t buy anything other than genuine Toyota.