Driveline Clunk. I don't like it. (2 Viewers)

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It is too late to matchmark the driveshaft to the t-case.
That's not what I meant. I was referring to the 2 halves of the driveshaft. Before you separate a driveshaft you should make index marks on the 2 halves so when reassembled they go back in the same position to keep the driveshaft in the proper phase.
The rotational position of the transfer case output flange and the pinion companion flange is irrelevant.
 
Thanks again, Jon.
Luckily, I have the part drawing which shows the orientation of the shaft in case it becomes separated.
Just for future reference, if removing the shaft and you're worried the end may be separated for a while, a match mark(paint mark or engraving is OK) but if you pay attention to where the zerk fittings are, you should be ok. The yokes at opposite ends should be 90 degrees out of phase and the zerks should be in the same location as when you took it apart. I don't have the drawing in front of me, but if I remember correctly, the zerks will all be accessible from 1 side. I'll check later and update this post if I am wrong.
 
No, it really is used.

It's been sitting in your pump room for, what, 6 years since I handed it off?

:lol:


Much less than that. More like 4 years.
 
<<<Seems like that could still easily get you 180degrees and/or one spline off>>>

I bought a used short end of the rear driveshaft. How would one know if its 180 deg off?
Its been on for many years now so it must be right.
 
I have pretty much no clunk in my 91 but I also have aisin hubs on the front. My guess is that is why
 
@itbrokeagain I think that I am clear on this but I would like some clarification please. I have a '92 and would like to go to PT hubs. I of course have the CDL lock. My understanding is that I can simply replace my hubs with locking hubs and that will do the trick. Is this correct? I too have an amount of drive line clunk from the front end. My plan would be to eliminate some clunk and save the new birfs all with one set of hubs.

I also read somewhere that the Aisin hubs will not work with the longer birfs. Is this true?
 
I just rebuilt my '92 rear axle (seals/bearings). After I put everything back back together, I could not remember if I tightened the pinion shaft. I had to drain the gear oil again and tear into it, sure enough I did not tighten the shaft. Put it all back together and filled gear oil with fresh oil. Mine seems to be less clunky now (since I said that I am sure it will change).
 
@itbrokeagain I think that I am clear on this but I would like some clarification please. I have a '92 and would like to go to PT hubs. I of course have the CDL lock. My understanding is that I can simply replace my hubs with locking hubs and that will do the trick. Is this correct? I too have an amount of drive line clunk from the front end. My plan would be to eliminate some clunk and save the new birfs all with one set of hubs.

I also read somewhere that the Aisin hubs will not work with the longer birfs. Is this true?
OK, you guys all realize that everything is still turning but you just have no connection to the front hubs, right? How is that saving wear?
 
Reason I put a spool in
 
Just got my lokka spool. Can't wait to get it in there.
 
So I have a clucks but I'm not sure if they have the same source. Any time I shift the auto into reverse, or drive, or park, I get a clunk. I also often get one when I come to stop at a stop sign. To me it sounds and feels kinda like axle wrap in my old Tacoma. I also sometimes get one when I start from a stop. Are they all the same? I need to start reading up on the VC removal and what that does to the all wheel drive.
 

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