Drive Flange Studs (1 Viewer)

[AlpineAccess]

I have the original nut stuck on the flange stub, so the stud is coming out, but I cannot get the nut off of the stud. Any ideas how to get it off? Or just best to buy new studs?

Cruiser outfitters has studs, as does Toyota if you feel like going with something new.

I found that cleaning the stud well, and putting a small amount of blue loctite on the threads and screwing it back in like a bolt worked well. The next time I went to remove it the nut came off and the stud remained due to the loctite. I ended up putting all new studs in anyways, and the stud was easy enough to remove with a set of channellocks.

 

[2001LC]

I too use blue loctite on studs to hub flange. I do this seal threads so water can't get in after I've cleaned, and too aid in holding in hub flange. I only torque to ~12-15ft-lbf. Which is halve the 24ft-lbf of nut. I also use blue loctite for the nut, if not replacing with new nut. Here, I'm very sparing as to amount, as I do not want to get into cone washer.

I've used the double nut technique many times, to hold studs for R&R. I use vise grips to remove, if not reusing.

These days I use a tool made to hold studs. Which, I've a few sizes and styles.

 

[2001LC]

Yep, new nuts.

View attachment 2481425

I always like, the work you do restoring. Always a quality job.

I hate rust and the build-up on wheel hub face wheel mounts to, as much as anyone if not more so.

But I resist painting face. As it's effects run-out reading on my dial gauge. I do something warn against, instead. After cleaning and checking run-out. I add some marine grease, then wipe off, without using a degreaser. Leaving a thin cost, to slow rusting. But this is not recommended, due to concerns if could reduce clamping force of lug nuts effectiveness. I've been looking into some other coatings. But all seem to reduce surface fiction (clamping tension holding ability) as does grease.