Drip Rails Sealant (1 Viewer)

[TexasLandCruiser]

My gutters were done 3 years ago and this week I was cleaning and noticed 2 spots under the sealant. I pulled back one spot and it was minor but cant unsee this. 95% looks great. The photo with text you can see the one temp repair to stop rust, pretty good blend for HD. The photo with seal removed either side has dark stuff which is metal grinded into it. Its light grey other than that.

2 questions:

Do I spot clean and seal this or does whole thing need to start over?

From the photo if the seal on all the vertical is clean can I just do the bottom (horizontal) and leave the seal going up the roof 1 inch. If I remove all the seal will be pretty visible.

 

[georgebj60]

Looks to me like you don't have any sealant in there at all. I see metal seams and spot welds.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Looks to me like you don't have any sealant in there at all. I see metal seams and spot welds.

Hey George, the sides are certainly thinner than thick rail above rear door. There is a thinner layer sealant on sides. Here’s some better photos.

If you’re saying the sealant thickness is insufficient pull it all out and make thicker, I can do that. Back to the original question, if I have 2 spots is it appropriate to patch and touch up paint or is it standard if anything pops up it all comes out?

I’m not crazy about they came up the roof a few spots about an inch up vertical. Because my other question was can I lap sealant over good sealant where it’s clean? All the paint is good so if I can avoid going too high I can keep that and only address horizontal, not disturbing good paint.

Post I’ve read say don’t go thick to conflict with chrome or cause the roof rack feet to dig in.

 

[diesellibrarian]

This might be a question for your local autobody supply store.

Having said that, I know what I'd do: I would clean up the area in question, lay down some more sealant, and then monitor it for the next while to make sure it doesn't seem to be lifting or peeling. If the new sealant isn't sticking to the old stuff, then you know you need to strip the rails and start over.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

This might be a question for your local autobody supply store.

Having said that, I know what I'd do: I would clean up the area in question, lay down some more sealant, and then monitor it for the next while to make sure it doesn't seem to be lifting or peeling. If the new sealant isn't sticking to the old stuff, then you know you need to strip the rails and start over.

Appreciate the input, this is what i started to do however since I responded I found 2 pin holes under paint so all bets are off. Cleaned up sealed it and take to repair. Now need to find someone that can weld. I’ve talked to 8 shops to do proper repair and no one wants to take it on. 2 of the shops offered but wanted to slap bondo on otherwise weren’t interested. Big thing every shop has said is they don’t want the work unless there’s a blank check from insurance, I get it but damn…

(Discouraged)

 

[Hokie LX]

I would strip it back and refill the gutters with some 3M 08307 self leveling seam sealer then repaint. There may be some traces of sealant in there but, as mentioned, the fact that you can see the spot welds from the top means that even if there is some sealant, it's not uniform and is not filled as intended.

The other option is you can try to sand back the failed areas and repaint them but filling only those areas is a moot point since the gutter is not uniformly filled to begin with. Laying new sealant over existing sealant would not be my choice. If it's already failing after 3 years, the remainder is also subject to failing in the next few years and it will ruin the sealer you put overtop. I'd just start fresh and guarantee it'll be good to go for the forseeable future.

 

[OSS]

The original Toyota factory drip rail sealant was at least 1/8” deep the whole way around. And it was tough. Roof rack holders rested on top of it with no damage to it.

 

[Michael Hanson]

I used the 3m two part epoxy, thought that it was great.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Really good feedback. I’ve ordered the 08307 and also a tube of the self level Eastwood 2 part. I spent some time looking at some of the sealant currently and I understand now what you’ve said. The back rail is double thick as side. The 2 spots I found with pin holes I cleaned up and painted temporarily. I don’t have the sealant as everything seems to be a long delivery time. Body shop guy who is going to repair is the mechanic for the local model A club, hoping if he can fabricate for a 100 year old car he can do cruiser. I’d do it all but I draw the line at welding. I’ll get there, have to get In enough pain to do it all at home.

The temporary paint is pretty crude but at least I can slow it down until a few weeks out. These pin holes arrived quick. The lower spots in the paint patch is from taking base coat off. I filled the pin holes with JB Weld to seal for now.