I have a 1997 LC and my driver side front and back doors wont lock with any of the electrontics or the key. The electronics work, I can hear a bolt moving when I push the lock/unlock switch. I can still lock the door manually, but its pretty annoying to jump in the car from the passenger side over the last week.
Doors wont lock w/ key, lock switch or clicker, only manually. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter John aye
- Start date
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Sounds like it might be a weak lock motor. Just remember before you yank the door card off, there may be a bolt hidden in the arm rest.
I have the same issue with my driver side rear door. It sounds like it's locking, but the door switch doesn't move. Manually locking it works fine. I'm curious what others have to say.
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I've replaced actuators with new OEM units and have only a slight improvement with locking via electronics.
Sometimes a lock needs "2 presses" with the remote or switch to lock - especially in the cold. I've replaced the entire handle and manual lock with a new unit to see if that is dragging - no success. I've gone through and checked everything mechanical, cleaned and greased with no improvement. Recently, I've been suspecting that, like the common starter solenoid issue, the actuators aren't getting enough voltage for a solid push.
Sometimes a lock needs "2 presses" with the remote or switch to lock - especially in the cold. I've replaced the entire handle and manual lock with a new unit to see if that is dragging - no success. I've gone through and checked everything mechanical, cleaned and greased with no improvement. Recently, I've been suspecting that, like the common starter solenoid issue, the actuators aren't getting enough voltage for a solid push.
My '97 had non-functioning electric locks when I got it. Found a link to cheap ebay replacement motors on mud and installed those which resolved all issues. I just looked and couldn't find the motors in my notes or past orders/etc. but I assume you can find them by putting something like the following into google and reading the threads that come up:
fzj80 actuator motor ebay site:forum.ih8mud.com
fzj80 actuator motor ebay site:forum.ih8mud.com
Followed my own advice and came up with more info on the new motors. Here's a link into a thread where the long-shaft motors that are in my '97 come up:
forum.ih8mud.com
A part number mentioned in that thread:
FC-280PC-22125
And a link to two of the motors:
These don't have the knurling on the center of the shaft that the og shaft has but I clamped the smooth / new shaft down until it spread out a bit so that the gear stayed in place after I pushed it onto the new shaft. Heating the gear and then slipping it on while warm/expanded can give you a tighter fit when the gear cools. If the gear slips on too easily then you need to pull it and flatten the shaft more or the gear will slip on the shaft after you put it all back together. I found that out the hard way and learned that it takes me about an hour to pull one of these motors and put it back in from start to finish.
Beyond the missing knurling you also have to deal with the wiring/connectors. I soldered the wire to make a pin and slip into the locking/slide-in terminals on my motors. Other motors will support different connections. I don't recall that polarity mattered.
You can test these before you put the lock mechanism back in the door. Do that, and test a number of times to save yourself some hassle if they aren't right.
Power Door Lock Problem - Driver Door
Long Shaft Motors Available For those curious, I just found some long shaft motors for sale on eBay. Should solve the problem and the output shaft being too short. I'm not exactly sure how they will fit- but it will be real easy to cut them down if they are too long. part number is...
forum.ih8mud.com
A part number mentioned in that thread:
FC-280PC-22125
And a link to two of the motors:
These don't have the knurling on the center of the shaft that the og shaft has but I clamped the smooth / new shaft down until it spread out a bit so that the gear stayed in place after I pushed it onto the new shaft. Heating the gear and then slipping it on while warm/expanded can give you a tighter fit when the gear cools. If the gear slips on too easily then you need to pull it and flatten the shaft more or the gear will slip on the shaft after you put it all back together. I found that out the hard way and learned that it takes me about an hour to pull one of these motors and put it back in from start to finish.
Beyond the missing knurling you also have to deal with the wiring/connectors. I soldered the wire to make a pin and slip into the locking/slide-in terminals on my motors. Other motors will support different connections. I don't recall that polarity mattered.
You can test these before you put the lock mechanism back in the door. Do that, and test a number of times to save yourself some hassle if they aren't right.
- Thread starter
- #8
Wow this was really helpful. Thanks joole!
