Power Door Lock Problem - Driver Door (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 18, 2016
Messages
2
Location
MA
Long Shaft Motors Available

For those curious, I just found some long shaft motors for sale on eBay. Should solve the problem and the output shaft being too short. I'm not exactly sure how they will fit- but it will be real easy to cut them down if they are too long.

part number is FC-280PC-22125

ebay link is here

Old thread but I just wanted to say that these motors worked perfect.

The only downside is that you don't have the knurl present on the original shafts to retain the gear and the gear is a slip fit on the new shaft. I used a healthy amount of superglue to retain the gear for now, but if that fails, I think some green loctite 635 will work. It has a very long cure time though, so that would only be a solution if you can spare 24 hours for the latch to be out.

If you have a caliper, the gear sits .159" down from the end of the shaft.

As far as the electrical connections go, I pulled brushes and the wires soldered to them out of the motor and snipped the ends off of them. You can then push the remainder into the slots on the side of the motor. They're retained well and there's no need to cut or extend the already short yellow wire coming off the board in the lock assembly.

I should have taken pictures to better illustrate, but I was paying more attention to getting the job done.
I had tried the cleaning in the above post but my motor was too far gone.
 
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
965
Location
Meridian Idaho
CAN someone post a picture of the original motor with shaft , I just did my 100 LC I know someone who can get you motors , need to see picture
 
Joined
May 13, 2017
Messages
28
Location
Shreveport
Old thread but I just wanted to say that these motors worked perfect.

The only downside is that you don't have the knurl present on the original shafts to retain the gear and the gear is a slip fit on the new shaft. I used a healthy amount of superglue to retain the gear for now, but if that fails, I think some green loctite 635 will work. It has a very long cure time though, so that would only be a solution if you can spare 24 hours for the latch to be out.

If you have a caliper, the gear sits .159" down from the end of the shaft.

As far as the electrical connections go, I pulled brushes and the wires soldered to them out of the motor and snipped the ends off of them. You can then push the remainder into the slots on the side of the motor. They're retained well and there's no need to cut or extend the already short yellow wire coming off the board in the lock assembly.

I should have taken pictures to better illustrate, but I was paying more attention to getting the job done.
I had tried the cleaning in the above post but my motor was too far gone.

IMG_1213.JPG


IMG_1214.JPG
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2017
Messages
15
Location
Charlotte NC
I am troubleshooting the lock actuator for my rear hatch door lock, and it seems the motor is actually working fine. What I found that appears to be a problem is the black plastic lever hovering over the gear (pic below) that is supposed to toggle the metal bar and thus the lock. If I use my finger to move the lever back and forth, nothing happens to the metal bar it is attached to. It just slips on the fulcrum. If I manually lock and unlock using the door pin it does move the black plastic lever since there is just enough friction. Seems to me something is not working properly. Possibly the plastic on metal connection has degraded or worn out?

For those that have disassembled these actuators before, have you found the black plastic lever is loosely attached to the metal bar or should I be able to manually move it side to side and actuate the door lock?

locklever.png
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2017
Messages
15
Location
Charlotte NC
I pulled the mechanism from the hatch and was able to get the black lever off of it's fulcrum. Appears both have rough surfaces to provide friction for the locking function. My plastic lever has a break in it but it is clean so I am unsure whether this is actually broken or if it came that way. (pic below) Anyone know first hand?

My next step is to add substance to increase the friction to see if the mechanism works better, or worst case I may use a soldering iron to weld the plastic back together.

2017-08-27 14.26.49.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2017
Messages
15
Location
Charlotte NC
For those following, the plastic lever was the issue. I ended up having to superglue it to the metal pin making sure it was in the correct position. Everything is working well now!
 

Ali M

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Messages
491
Location
WA
I had this problem with my rear and driver. for the driver I bought the OEM set for $69 on ebay and when I realized I could just replace the dc motors I bought two of them and replaced both rear doors. One just failed yesterday and reopened again for the 2nd time and looks like the super glue gave away on that spiral piece that goes in the shaft. I am going to weld this time and see if it makes a difference. I hate wasting time on these freaking door lock motors.
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2020
Messages
30
Location
usa
Does anyone know if the little DC motor is the same in the rear door lock actuators? Could I buy a rear door actuator and use the motor out of it in my drivers door?
 

landcruising

Mud User - Not Abuser
SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
779
Location
San Diego
I think one of the vendors here on Mud has now sourced just the motors, also worth a try. Cant remember who, thought it was Delta, but checked there site and didn't see them.
 

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