Door lock motor failure-confirmed
- Thread starter NLXTACY
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If i understand him correctly, you use the pliers on the bottom of the worm gear, this grips the worm gear itself and then use the punch at the top to strike the shaft. The downward pressure coupled with the needle nose holding the worm gear sounds like it will work it loose. If I'm barking up the right tree here you may need a helper or a vice or both. Hope that helped
Outsane
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I've done this repair in my 80 with success, but now I have a unique situation with my 70 series. The motor dimensions in the 70 appear to be identical to the 80, except it's 24v. The motor literally has '24V' stamped on it. I haven't had luck finding a 24v version so I'm going to just replaced brush/cap on the motor. If you know of a 24v version please let me know! Otherwise, here's my question - since the the 70 and 80 require the wires to be soldered on to the motor, unlike the 100 series and up, have you found it difficult to solder on these motors that don't have protruding contact tab? Is there a wired version out there that has tabs that are easier to solder to?
Back from the dead!
All of my door lock actuators work except my front passenger one. I got to thinking, would it be possible to order an Aisin rear passenger door actuator and take that motor to swap into the front door actuator? Probably is the more costly fix, but I cannot solder to save my life.
All of my door lock actuators work except my front passenger one. I got to thinking, would it be possible to order an Aisin rear passenger door actuator and take that motor to swap into the front door actuator? Probably is the more costly fix, but I cannot solder to save my life.
That's exactly what I did.
My rear passenger power door lock was slowly failing and eventually quit working. I pulled the motor, took it apart, and it was black around the brushes. I cleaned it, and it ran, but looked like one of the brushes was short (like it had melted?) and the motor would either jam against the brush or not get current after a few pulses. I replaced the motor for 16 bucks. Soldered it and put it in the housing, and tested it - seemed to work, until I screwed the housing together, at which point the motor would not turn anymore. Super frustrating. I wonder if the problem all along was the housing - that could have caused the original motor to overheat and burn its brushes. Then I realized I could buy the entire motor housing for only a few dollars more than the motor itself (I bought an ebay knockoff). If that fails I can buy the Aisin from Rock Auto for 40 bucks.
knockoff: Door Lock Actuator Motor Rear Left For Toyota Land Cruiser Lexus LX450 91-98 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/187082646450
1997 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.5L L6 Door Lock Actuator | Shop Now at RockAuto
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