The motor you're holding in your pics is an OEM motor. Aisin was the OEM supplier.
Door lock motor failure-confirmed
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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Don’t forget the little bolt that holds tail-end of actuator to door on reassembly
doing this repair- my motor is actually fine. I cleaned it out, and it operates strong.
The issue was a cracked lever arm. Split down the side so it slips, instead of pulling the lock mech when the gear wheel rotates.
you can see the crack all the way down the barrel
The plastic lever arm slides down onto this knurled post- pressure fit.
I roughed up the plastic, drilled some divits into the outer diameter to give jb weld something to grab as well as in the crack.
Ideally a flat, metal collar on the outside would be ideal, but I couldnt find anything.
Ziptie, etc won't work as there is no clearance with the cover.
Hopefully this holds and will probably add some epoxy inside the hole/on the post, when I push the lever arm onto the post,
to help keep it locked in position.
The youtube vid from @Texasknowhow is excellent in how to take everything apart- really made it easy.
I'm thinking that maybe years of accidentally pulling the door handle at the same time as power unlocking/locking may be the cause.
of breaking the arm.
The issue was a cracked lever arm. Split down the side so it slips, instead of pulling the lock mech when the gear wheel rotates.
you can see the crack all the way down the barrel
The plastic lever arm slides down onto this knurled post- pressure fit.
I roughed up the plastic, drilled some divits into the outer diameter to give jb weld something to grab as well as in the crack.
Ideally a flat, metal collar on the outside would be ideal, but I couldnt find anything.
Ziptie, etc won't work as there is no clearance with the cover.
Hopefully this holds and will probably add some epoxy inside the hole/on the post, when I push the lever arm onto the post,
to help keep it locked in position.
The youtube vid from @Texasknowhow is excellent in how to take everything apart- really made it easy.
I'm thinking that maybe years of accidentally pulling the door handle at the same time as power unlocking/locking may be the cause.
of breaking the arm.
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I’m struggling to find a fix for this. I’ve got a mess on my counter trying to replace the motor. The shaft from the original with the gear is a different diameter than the EBay replacement.
I’m struggling to find a fix for this. I’ve got a mess on my counter trying to replace the motor. The shaft from the original with the gear is a different diameter than the EBay replacement.
Some have soldered the gear to the shaft, others have used JB Weld or epoxy.
I took the damn thing at art and can’t figure out where 3 loose parts to the body go.
Great info on this thread. Quick question related to the door locks. I bought the LX450 with a pair of aftermarket keys and the outside lock on both front sides are starting to give me a hard time when inserting the key to open/close it. It is still working but it doesn't go as smooth as it should be, almost like the inside is too "dry" and sometimes the key doesn't enter all the way through.
Is there a way to replace the oustide locks with an oem part? So far, I couldn't find the part. Locking from the inside with the lock button is fine, even though the back seat locks are not actuating as they should, exactly how Mr. Joey from Wits-End explained on this thread.
Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers
Is there a way to replace the oustide locks with an oem part? So far, I couldn't find the part. Locking from the inside with the lock button is fine, even though the back seat locks are not actuating as they should, exactly how Mr. Joey from Wits-End explained on this thread.
Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers
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The aftermarket keys may not be cut just right. I'm assuming Lexus does it the same as a Toyota dealer where you can take your ID and vehicle Registration to your dealer and they will make you a key that is cut accurately using the Toyota key code.
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Hey Kernal! Once again, thank you for the info. I quoted a new oem key with a local locksmith just to have a reference before talking to the dealer and what I got is $120-$285/key or fob depending on how much labor is needed (?). Will get a quote with Mr. T this week.
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
Maybe @Dirty Koala can weigh in here actually. He replaced LX locks with our setup. The locks are different and I haven’t had a chance to get guts to rebuild them, but if you can source a LandCruiser tailgate lock, I can repin it to work with the new keys as well.
Delta Vehicle Systems - Toyota OEM Lock Cylinder SET
Full lockset is no longer available, get the second best thing right here!
www.deltavs.com
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Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
The Landcruiser version of the front door locks and ignition lock are a direct replacement for the Lexus locks. @Delta VS Can send you a matching set of those 3 locks with new keys. If you get your hands on a Landcruiser glove box lock and rear hatch lock, then @Delta VS can rebuild those to match the new ignition/front door locks too.Maybe @Dirty Koala can weight in here actually. He replaced LX locks with our setup. The locks are different and I haven’t had a chance to get guts to rebuild them, but if you can source and LandCruiser tailgate lock, I can repin it to work with the new keys as well.
Delta Vehicle Systems - Toyota OEM Lock Cylinder SET
Full lockset is no longer available, get the second best thing right here!
I was having the exact same issue you are describing...sure is nice to now just push a key in without having to fight it, Dave does a super nice job on the lock rebuilds.
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I recently installed new Aisin DLT-088 & DLT-089 actuators in rear doors and hatch. They did get the locks to lock and unlock, however, the manual lock toggle on the rear doors does not move completely to unlock with one push of the Driver door unlock button. In other words when you hit the Driver Door unlock button or the key cylinder in the door the doors are unlocked, but the rear door manual toggles are not all the way unlocked (only a portion of the Orange shows).
I think this is common on all the 80s but is there a solution??
I think this is common on all the 80s but is there a solution??
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
FJ80 - FZJ80 Door lock motor
FJ80 - FZJ80 Door lock motor If your doors no longer lock and unlock this is likely the culprit, this or the arm is broken. Making a fix for that now.. This is the 20mm long shaft motor a replacement for the oem motor. Tin the electrical ends an shove into the motor for electrical connection...
solvefunction.com
If you want to order a motor that fits.
I went with the Aisin actuators due to the amount of available time I have to actually work on my 80 right now. I was just wondering if there was an adjustment to get the manual toggle or flips to completely move forward when locked. The doors lock but the toggle and indicator (orange) is only halfway locked on the inside.
at least on the rear hatch, there are two screws which connect the actuator to the bracket. the bracket is slotted, allowing for a very small amount of adjustment. the only compliant is the screws are not accessible with the actuator mounted so you have to pull it all out. maybe take a look at that?
i just replaced the rear hatch actuator with the 088 part from Rockauto. perfect match for the rear hatch. after removing the 3-4 bolts holding it in there, it took a few more minutes of figuring out which arms needed disconnecting from what. and then re-assembling.
one question on the rear hatch: should manually moving the lock up/down ALSO trigger the other door locks to cycle? mine doesn't but I don't think there are any switches back there.
i just replaced the rear hatch actuator with the 088 part from Rockauto. perfect match for the rear hatch. after removing the 3-4 bolts holding it in there, it took a few more minutes of figuring out which arms needed disconnecting from what. and then re-assembling.
one question on the rear hatch: should manually moving the lock up/down ALSO trigger the other door locks to cycle? mine doesn't but I don't think there are any switches back there.
Hello, I ordered the part on eBay and just received it, my question is two fold. Mainly… how do you get the worm gear off the old shaft? I’ve been pulling on it to no avail I’m afraid to break the gear. Second, does someone know which polarity is which? Not sure which side is positive and which side is negative. Thanks for the help
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
A set of needle nose under the gear and a small punch to get the gear off.
You can power the motor and watch it spin and compare it to the old motor.
You can power the motor and watch it spin and compare it to the old motor.
