I think that’s just me not wanting to have to take apart my doors multiple times if I can avoid it hahaI would say "no". If a window is working OK then leave it alone.
door lock actuator remove and replace? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
- Start date
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@Seabert: there are just a few other things you can take care of while you're in there:
Here's the OCD list:
Disconnect battery and wash out the inner door cavity, it can get surprisingly dirty
Lube/replace the door check assembly (door stopper). There's a small piece of foam that deteriorates, replace with a thin piece of rubber (sheet)
The intrusion bar has adhesive foam lumps between it and the outer door skin that can dry out and separate. The by-the-book fix is to
replace those lumps with the correct Adhesive Foam (3M product) but that's almost impossible to work with when the door is on the vehicle, so
one substitute is to stuff lumps of Butyl rubber over/in place of the original foam lumps. Do NOT use any sort of adhesive or epoxy
that cures hard, the door skin expands and contracts with the sun/temperature so you don't want to fix the sheet metal firmly to the bar.
In Cali rust isn't much of a problem but once it's clean you can prime/paint (aerosol) inside the door cavity then apply sound dampening material if you want (25-50% is more than enough IME) to the inner aspect of the outer door skin. Not much is gained by plastering dampening sheets on everything.
Re-wrap the wire harnesses
Replace the speakers (you can protect them from water that normally trickles through the door cavity by using speaker "hats" or Marine grade speakers)
Replace or clean/service the window regulators (remove them along with the motors)
Clean and lube the door lock actuators (33 Medium mentioned above)
Clean and lube door lock cylinders (inspect for damage especially the fronts which have been known to develop a wear through spot from a spring)
Spray 3M Cavity wax when you're all done inside the door
Repair/replace the vapor barriers, this is important as water can/will damage the door card and can trickle inside the cabin if the barrier is torn
Replace any missing butyl rubber rope for resealing the vapor barriers (3M Window Weld)
Repair any damage to the Masonite door card then treat with a product to decrease future water damage (ie: polyurethane aerosol, Spar varnish, etc)
You can add a thin sheet of closed cell foam (1/8") on the backside of the door card to help with sound/noise transmission through the door panel.
Replace weather stripping
Replace rubber glass runs
Replace belt molding
Check that the window glass is held firmly inside the metal bracket (glass "channel") that connects the glass to the regulator, rust can form inside causing
the bracket to lose it's grip on the glass.
Probably forgot something
Here's the OCD list:
Disconnect battery and wash out the inner door cavity, it can get surprisingly dirty
Lube/replace the door check assembly (door stopper). There's a small piece of foam that deteriorates, replace with a thin piece of rubber (sheet)
The intrusion bar has adhesive foam lumps between it and the outer door skin that can dry out and separate. The by-the-book fix is to
replace those lumps with the correct Adhesive Foam (3M product) but that's almost impossible to work with when the door is on the vehicle, so
one substitute is to stuff lumps of Butyl rubber over/in place of the original foam lumps. Do NOT use any sort of adhesive or epoxy
that cures hard, the door skin expands and contracts with the sun/temperature so you don't want to fix the sheet metal firmly to the bar.
In Cali rust isn't much of a problem but once it's clean you can prime/paint (aerosol) inside the door cavity then apply sound dampening material if you want (25-50% is more than enough IME) to the inner aspect of the outer door skin. Not much is gained by plastering dampening sheets on everything.
Re-wrap the wire harnesses
Replace the speakers (you can protect them from water that normally trickles through the door cavity by using speaker "hats" or Marine grade speakers)
Replace or clean/service the window regulators (remove them along with the motors)
Clean and lube the door lock actuators (33 Medium mentioned above)
Clean and lube door lock cylinders (inspect for damage especially the fronts which have been known to develop a wear through spot from a spring)
Spray 3M Cavity wax when you're all done inside the door
Repair/replace the vapor barriers, this is important as water can/will damage the door card and can trickle inside the cabin if the barrier is torn
Replace any missing butyl rubber rope for resealing the vapor barriers (3M Window Weld)
Repair any damage to the Masonite door card then treat with a product to decrease future water damage (ie: polyurethane aerosol, Spar varnish, etc)
You can add a thin sheet of closed cell foam (1/8") on the backside of the door card to help with sound/noise transmission through the door panel.
Replace weather stripping
Replace rubber glass runs
Replace belt molding
Check that the window glass is held firmly inside the metal bracket (glass "channel") that connects the glass to the regulator, rust can form inside causing
the bracket to lose it's grip on the glass.
Probably forgot something
Last edited:
Sounds about right hahaha
But really, I appreciate you taking the time to write all this out! The advice is helpful especially when thinking about getting together everything I’ll need before opening up the doors again (though let’s be honest I’ll probably end up still forgetting something)
Thanks!
