I think that’s just me not wanting to have to take apart my doors multiple times if I can avoid it hahaI would say "no". If a window is working OK then leave it alone.
door lock actuator remove and replace?
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
@Seabert: there are just a few other things you can take care of while you're in there:
Here's the OCD list:
Disconnect battery and wash out the inner door cavity, it can get surprisingly dirty
Lube/replace the door check assembly (door stopper). There's a small piece of foam that deteriorates, replace with a thin piece of rubber (sheet)
The intrusion bar has adhesive foam lumps between it and the outer door skin that can dry out and separate. The by-the-book fix is to
replace those lumps with the correct Adhesive Foam (3M product) but that's almost impossible to work with when the door is on the vehicle, so
one substitute is to stuff lumps of Butyl rubber over/in place of the original foam lumps. Do NOT use any sort of adhesive or epoxy
that cures hard, the door skin expands and contracts with the sun/temperature so you don't want to fix the sheet metal firmly to the bar.
In Cali rust isn't much of a problem but once it's clean you can prime/paint (aerosol) inside the door cavity then apply sound dampening material if you want (25-50% is more than enough IME) to the inner aspect of the outer door skin. Not much is gained by plastering dampening sheets on everything.
Re-wrap the wire harnesses
Replace the speakers (you can protect them from water that normally trickles through the door cavity by using speaker "hats" or Marine grade speakers)
Replace or clean/service the window regulators (remove them along with the motors)
Clean and lube the door lock actuators (33 Medium mentioned above. inspect for damaged plastic especially the fronts which have been known to develop a wear through spot from a spring)
Clean and lube door lock cylinders
Spray 3M Cavity wax when you're all done inside the door
Repair/replace the vapor barriers, this is important as water can/will damage the door card and can trickle inside the cabin if the barrier is torn
Replace any missing butyl rubber rope for resealing the vapor barriers (3M Window Weld)
Repair any damage to the Masonite door card then treat with a product to decrease future water damage (ie: polyurethane aerosol, Spar varnish, etc)
You can add a thin sheet of closed cell foam (1/8") on the backside of the door card to help with sound/noise transmission through the door panel.
Replace weather stripping
Replace rubber glass runs
Replace belt molding
Check that the window glass is held firmly inside the metal bracket (glass "channel") that connects the glass to the regulator, rust can form inside causing
the bracket to lose it's grip on the glass.
Probably forgot something
Here's the OCD list:
Disconnect battery and wash out the inner door cavity, it can get surprisingly dirty
Lube/replace the door check assembly (door stopper). There's a small piece of foam that deteriorates, replace with a thin piece of rubber (sheet)
The intrusion bar has adhesive foam lumps between it and the outer door skin that can dry out and separate. The by-the-book fix is to
replace those lumps with the correct Adhesive Foam (3M product) but that's almost impossible to work with when the door is on the vehicle, so
one substitute is to stuff lumps of Butyl rubber over/in place of the original foam lumps. Do NOT use any sort of adhesive or epoxy
that cures hard, the door skin expands and contracts with the sun/temperature so you don't want to fix the sheet metal firmly to the bar.
In Cali rust isn't much of a problem but once it's clean you can prime/paint (aerosol) inside the door cavity then apply sound dampening material if you want (25-50% is more than enough IME) to the inner aspect of the outer door skin. Not much is gained by plastering dampening sheets on everything.
Re-wrap the wire harnesses
Replace the speakers (you can protect them from water that normally trickles through the door cavity by using speaker "hats" or Marine grade speakers)
Replace or clean/service the window regulators (remove them along with the motors)
Clean and lube the door lock actuators (33 Medium mentioned above. inspect for damaged plastic especially the fronts which have been known to develop a wear through spot from a spring)
Clean and lube door lock cylinders
Spray 3M Cavity wax when you're all done inside the door
Repair/replace the vapor barriers, this is important as water can/will damage the door card and can trickle inside the cabin if the barrier is torn
Replace any missing butyl rubber rope for resealing the vapor barriers (3M Window Weld)
Repair any damage to the Masonite door card then treat with a product to decrease future water damage (ie: polyurethane aerosol, Spar varnish, etc)
You can add a thin sheet of closed cell foam (1/8") on the backside of the door card to help with sound/noise transmission through the door panel.
Replace weather stripping
Replace rubber glass runs
Replace belt molding
Check that the window glass is held firmly inside the metal bracket (glass "channel") that connects the glass to the regulator, rust can form inside causing
the bracket to lose it's grip on the glass.
Probably forgot something
Last edited:
Sounds about right hahaha
But really, I appreciate you taking the time to write all this out! The advice is helpful especially when thinking about getting together everything I’ll need before opening up the doors again (though let’s be honest I’ll probably end up still forgetting something)
Thanks!
Hi all, I'm looking to replace/repair my driver front door lock actuator. I haven't had a chance to investigate what is wrong (i.e. motor or actuator). But my driver door doesn't want to fully lock from the inside, unless I push the door switch all the way. I can't seem to find a front driver door actuator anywhere? Does any know where to find one or the part number? Could I use a rear left actuator for the front?
Also, unlocking with a key from the outside. It won't unlock on the first key turn, but will on the second.
Also, unlocking with a key from the outside. It won't unlock on the first key turn, but will on the second.
Last edited:
Front door lock actuators (either side) are difficult to find, no longer available from Toyota. The rear actuators will not fit on the front doors, but one
of the rears (L-R?) will fit on the rear hatch. The left front actuator was part number 69040-60041.
Difficulty turning the lock from outside is often related to a worn key especially if that key is a copy of an original. Best to have
a new key cut at a Toyota Dealership or a Locksmith who cuts it using the key code for your vehicle (not just copy the old key).
The door lock actuators can get gummed up, there an internal spring that can cause trouble, and you could have a week/dying motor inside
the door lock actuator. Only way to know is to dig into it.
of the rears (L-R?) will fit on the rear hatch. The left front actuator was part number 69040-60041.
Difficulty turning the lock from outside is often related to a worn key especially if that key is a copy of an original. Best to have
a new key cut at a Toyota Dealership or a Locksmith who cuts it using the key code for your vehicle (not just copy the old key).
The door lock actuators can get gummed up, there an internal spring that can cause trouble, and you could have a week/dying motor inside
the door lock actuator. Only way to know is to dig into it.
Last edited:
Thanks so much for the info. I'll take a look at the video once my kiddo is asleep, looks like a great resource to follow. I did find a replacement motor that'll purchase and swap that out.
Good call on cutting a new key, I'll stop by my Toyota dealer and do that. This key looks to be original, but still could be worn. Thank you!
Last edited: