Dometic PLB40 battery with Jackery 100W solar panel

[aka2006]

Hi
Did anybody use Dometic PLB40 battery with Jackery 100W solar panel ?

Jackery Flexible & Portable SolarSaga 100W

SolarSaga 100W Solar Panel from Jackery is a foldable and portable Monocrystalline Solar Panel. Featured with USB and Anderson DC ports. Stay charged with the power of the sun!

www.jackery.com

Dometic PLB40

Dometic PLB40 - Portable lithium battery, 40 Ah

www.dometic.com

By the specs, the panel output (ideal conditions) is 18V (5.5 Amp) which pretty good for given size and weight
The PLB40 battery DC input is rated as 8-25V (with max 8A).
Just going by the specs it seems compatible. The only thing I am looking for is right cable with right connectors.
The battery accepts Anderson SB50 (black) connector
The panel output looks like smaller Anderson PP15 or PP45 (black/red combination).
Looking for suggestions.

 

[ckkone]

Power Systems

Solar, lithium or AGM batteries, wind, generators, etc.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[WesSiler]

Here's the setup I use in my Ranger: The Ultimate Overland Solar-Power Setup

I don't use our 200 for hunting, so don't need hugely extended engine-off power. With the PLB40, you can probably get away without solar panels unless you have a need to run a fridge for over 48 hours without driving.

 

[audyssey]

You can make your own cable for PP45 -> SB50. Use the right gauge wires for the length (reduce voltage drop). Don't forget to put a fuse.

 

[Sandroad]

In looking over the specs, the 100 watt panel will probably charge the Dometic battery ok, if the panel is in full sun. It seems the battery has its own charge controller built in, but it's likely the charge controller would be a PWM type and not able to take full advantage of that 18V output of the panel. So keep your expectations low!

However, this would be an expensive setup. Amazon prices would put it at $1137 for only 100 watts of panel and 40Ah of battery. It may be convenient, but solar panels now are well below $1 per watt and really good LiFePo4 batteries can be had for around $10 per amp-hour. Shop around a bit and look for RV solar systems in your searching. You may find similar convenience at a lower cost.

And a quick edit: LiFePo4 batteries cannot be charged below 32 degrees F (0 C), so if your application needs that, look for the specially designed (and expensive) lithium batteries that use a bit of the charge current to warm themselves up for charging.

 

[mookamatook]

You can make your own cable for PP45 -> SB50. Use the right gauge wires for the length (reduce voltage drop). Don't forget to put a fuse.

What fuse? Thx in Advance! Going to wire up a MC4 panel to a Anderson connector on a Dometic PLB40 battery pack. Any further advice would be much appreciated!!

 

[audyssey]

I sourced my PP45 connectors from PowerWerx. I think its also available on Amazon.

Here's a direct connect solution, but I'm guess 1 foot is too short.

Solar MC4 to Anderson Powerpole Connector Adapter Cable

Adapt your solar panel MC4 connectors to an Anderson Powerpole connector. Made with 10 gauge super flexible power wire. 12 inches long. Standard Anderson Powerpole connector configuration and mates with PP15/30/45.

powerwerx.com

 

[mookamatook]

I sourced my PP45 connectors from PowerWerx. I think its also available on Amazon.

Here's a direct connect solution, but I'm guess 1 foot is too short.

Solar MC4 to Anderson Powerpole Connector Adapter Cable

Adapt your solar panel MC4 connectors to an Anderson Powerpole connector. Made with 10 gauge super flexible power wire. 12 inches long. Standard Anderson Powerpole connector configuration and mates with PP15/30/45.

powerwerx.com

That looks like a good option. Does it mate directly with the PLB40 Anderson Grey connector? I'm new to solar so please give me a break asking newb questions here...

 

[audyssey]

Opps.. looking at the details from the OP it looks like the PLB40 has an SB50 connector.

You can make your own SB50 cables. Here's a link to Powerwerx SB50 connectors:

Anderson Powerpole and SB Connectors | Powerwerx

Anderson Power Products Powerpole and SB Series connectors are available at Powerwerx. Shop for different gauges today!

powerwerx.com

The cable I linked above won't work for you.

 

[mookamatook]

Opps.. looking at the details from the OP it looks like the PLB40 has an SB50 connector.

You can make your own SB50 cables. Here's a link to Powerwerx SB50 connectors:

Anderson Powerpole and SB Connectors | Powerwerx

Anderson Power Products Powerpole and SB Series connectors are available at Powerwerx. Shop for different gauges today!

powerwerx.com

The cable I linked above won't work for you.

Thanks for this! That link brought me to a big page of different components which was a bit intimidating... I can definitely solder and make electrical connections but my ability to troubleshoot and/or find the right part in this new world of solar/portable lithium is still pretty limited. If I was to get a 200 W flexible panel with mc4 connetions what would I need to get it to my PLB40 with SB50 connectors?

 

[audyssey]

The battery chemistry isn't so important in this use case. The things to look at are the specs of the panel.

Would highly recommend watching a Will Prowse on youtube. Very informative:

DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse

Want to build an awesome off-grid solar power system? My videos will teach you everything you need, no experience necessary :)

www.youtube.com

When looking at the link you provided, the max output voltage is 18V and the max amperage is 6.25A. I have no idea why they are claiming 200W as this by these specs is really 112.5W, and that's under the most ideal of conditions.

The PLB40 has a built in charge controller, so it should be as simple has directly connecting the panels into the input in the correct polarity.
Here's a link to a direct SB50 kit with connectors and housing:

Anderson Power Products SB50 SB Series 50 Amp Connector Kit

Available in Blue, Gray, Red, Yellow, Orange, Green and Black. Recommended for use with 6, 8 and 10 gauge wire. Kit includes the housing and contacts needed for a single connector.

powerwerx.com

 

[Sandroad]

What fuse? Thx in Advance! Going to wire up a MC4 panel to a Anderson connector on a Dometic PLB40 battery pack. Any further advice would be much appreciated!!

Here’s a ready made adapter. I see the Dometic battery is protected by An internal fuse, so no external fuse is needed. Double check that in the specs. Amazon product ASIN B07QD21QKS

 

[mookamatook]

Here’s a ready made adapter. I see the Dometic battery is protected by An internal fuse, so no external fuse is needed. Double check that in the specs. Amazon product ASIN B07QD21QKS

Man I really do love this forum. So helpful!!!

I think I have things going on power for the rear area but have a few questions... I'd like to set up a little power distribution system that can stay in the car and disconnect from the PLB40 to power a few AC or USB LED light strips Link Here, charge phones, computers, drone batteries, etc. So I bought a 150W inverter (Link Here) as dometic advises not going above that...but the inverter doesn't have a switch so it's constantly trickling off the DC > AC circuit. Not ideal. Ideas for a inverter with a switch that is small?

The dometic CF50 needs to go into the 2 blade 12V threaded connector on the PLB40 but my cable that came with the fridge doesn't appear to have that threaded connection... I'll need to source a cable like that has that 2blade threaded end I think... So basically I think I need some sort of DC "power strip" that can take one outlet and turn it into 4-6 outlets. Would something like this cause problems?? (Link Here) Or, I guess I could start taking off the DC cigarette ends of the cables and hardwiring them to something like a fuse block mounted to the side of the cargo system somewhere... Recommendations? Again, kind of a newb to this whole 12v world so your help would be super great!

On the input sides I'll have the 12v in the cargo area that will charge the PLB40 from the car when it's running. I don't think I need it to be all time on. I'll mount a 160W renogy flexible panel to the top of my roof top carrier and get the anderson connectors that you all linked to run through the hatch (trying to not drill through my roof!) to power the battery when I'm stopped. I often have to leave the car in a parking lot or somewhere at a trailhead so I'm thinking a permanent install on the rooftop carrier will be a good thing instead of a foldable panel that someone could walk off with. Thoughts on that approach?

Or should I go with foldable panels and just run the panels through the front doors somehow to prevent someone from stealing it when I leave the car?
Link Here

 

[Sandroad]

Man I really do love this forum. So helpful!!!

I think I have things going on power for the rear area but have a few questions... I'd like to set up a little power distribution system that can stay in the car and disconnect from the PLB40 to power a few AC or USB LED light strips Link Here, charge phones, computers, drone batteries, etc. So I bought a 150W inverter (Link Here) as dometic advises not going above that...but the inverter doesn't have a switch so it's constantly trickling off the DC > AC circuit. Not ideal. Ideas for a inverter with a switch that is small?

The dometic CF50 needs to go into the 2 blade 12V threaded connector on the PLB40 but my cable that came with the fridge doesn't appear to have that threaded connection... I'll need to source a cable like that has that 2blade threaded end I think... So basically I think I need some sort of DC "power strip" that can take one outlet and turn it into 4-6 outlets. Would something like this cause problems?? (Link Here) Or, I guess I could start taking off the DC cigarette ends of the cables and hardwiring them to something like a fuse block mounted to the side of the cargo system somewhere... Recommendations? Again, kind of a newb to this whole 12v world so your help would be super great!

On the input sides I'll have the 12v in the cargo area that will charge the PLB40 from the car when it's running. I don't think I need it to be all time on. I'll mount a 160W renogy flexible panel to the top of my roof top carrier and get the anderson connectors that you all linked to run through the hatch (trying to not drill through my roof!) to power the battery when I'm stopped. I often have to leave the car in a parking lot or somewhere at a trailhead so I'm thinking a permanent install on the rooftop carrier will be a good thing instead of a foldable panel that someone could walk off with. Thoughts on that approach?

Or should I go with foldable panels and just run the panels through the front doors somehow to prevent someone from stealing it when I leave the car?
Link Here

Wise idea to have an inverter with a switch. The "trickle" of an inverter that's always on can be considerable. Here's my favorite inverter of that size:

Top-Quality Off-Grid Solar Inverters | NAZ Solar Electric

Explore our selection of Off-Grid Inverters at NAZ Solar Electric. Ideal for remote cabins, RVs, boats, and more. Discover efficient, reliable, and easy-to-use solar power solutions tailored for a variety of applications. Shop now for the latest in solar inverter technology.

www.solar-electric.com

The DC "power strip" you linked to would not cause any problems, but watch the total wattage of devices plugged into it. Hardwiring DC receptacles would look cleaner, but a lot more effort to install.

The Renogy flexible panel is great and I use one myself. They are, however, prone to walking off without permission. If you plan to leave a vehicle unattended at a trailhead, for sure permanently mount a solar panel on the roof or put your Renogy panel inside the vehicle when you are away. I found the foldable panels to be less than convenient because the suitcase style storage adds so much to the weight and cost.

 

[mookamatook]

Wise idea to have an inverter with a switch. The "trickle" of an inverter that's always on can be considerable. Here's my favorite inverter of that size:

Top-Quality Off-Grid Solar Inverters | NAZ Solar Electric

Explore our selection of Off-Grid Inverters at NAZ Solar Electric. Ideal for remote cabins, RVs, boats, and more. Discover efficient, reliable, and easy-to-use solar power solutions tailored for a variety of applications. Shop now for the latest in solar inverter technology.

www.solar-electric.com

The DC "power strip" you linked to would not cause any problems, but watch the total wattage of devices plugged into it. Hardwiring DC receptacles would look cleaner, but a lot more effort to install.

The Renogy flexible panel is great and I use one myself. They are, however, prone to walking off without permission. If you plan to leave a vehicle unattended at a trailhead, for sure permanently mount a solar panel on the roof or put your Renogy panel inside the vehicle when you are away. I found the foldable panels to be less than convenient because the suitcase style storage adds so much to the weight and cost.

Thanks for the info and feedback! I think I'll likely go for a permanent install of the renogy on top of my roof top carrier so I can park and tilt for sun in camp but just leave it on the closed angle when at a trailhead. Hopefully can figure out a way to make it less than appealing to steal from up there. My truck is pretty high anyways so maybe people wont really notice it...

That inverter looks good! Thanks for that too!

 

[WesSiler]

I think I'll likely go for a permanent install of the renogy on top of my roof top carrier so I can park and tilt for sun in camp but just leave it on the closed angle when at a trailhead.

Just mount it flat permanently. My two 100W panels seem to perform exactly the same no matter their orientation, so long as it's daylight.

 

[mookamatook]

Just mount it flat permanently. My two 100W panels seem to perform exactly the same no matter their orientation, so long as it's daylight.

Wes, do you think 100W is enough to run the Dometic CF50 for 3 days without driving off the PLB40? I know you have a bigger freezer so not apples to apples but... I'm pretty impressed with how long the PLB40 lasts with the fridge thus far. I can let it run for almost 2.5 days without anything else attached to it.

Also, I love your articles online! I read them weekly!

Anyone run their solar panel cables through the rear hatch grommet and down through the drivers side moulding to the area by the 12v socket? Seems like you could get a good seal there and not need to drill anything up top. I'm also deathly afraid of hitting something when I do that. Less holes = better. I'm still thinking about the 4" holesaw>fender>snorkel and how that felt...

 

[WesSiler]

Wes, do you think 100W is enough to run the Dometic CF50 for 3 days without driving off the PLB40? I know you have a bigger freezer so not apples to apples but... I'm pretty impressed with how long the PLB40 lasts with the fridge thus far. I can let it run for almost 2.5 days without anything else attached to it.

Also, I love your articles online! I read them weekly!

Yep. That's what most people I know run. It's not so much size of the fridge as it is how you use it. Don't expect to go from 90 degrees to zero with an empty fridge on a single battery charge. But you'll totally be able to maintain whatever temp you want on solar and the PLB alone pretty much indefinitely.

Thanks for reading!

 

[mookamatook]

Yep. That's what most people I know run. It's not so much size of the fridge as it is how you use it. Don't expect to go from 90 degrees to zero with an empty fridge on a single battery charge. But you'll totally be able to maintain whatever temp you want on solar and the PLB alone pretty much indefinitely.

Thanks for reading!

Totally get the logic of that. After rafting with a weeks worth of food in a cooler for so much of my childhood, theres definitely a method to the madness. 12v has kind of spoiled me though... good to remember to prefreeze and pack smart!

One question, when you have solar going, do you switch out the cables to your PLB40 from your 12v socket to Anderson connector in the Ranger to the solar's anderson when you are parked? Could you have a splitter cable that had 2 inputs and one anderson output into the PLB? Any way to have both of them on line at all times and receiving power from alternator when running and solar when key is out of ignition? Would be nice to be able to leave things be and just be able to plug in when needed and let the fridge run.

 

[WesSiler]

Totally get the logic of that. After rafting with a weeks worth of food in a cooler for so much of my childhood, theres definitely a method to the madness. 12v has kind of spoiled me though... good to remember to prefreeze and pack smart!

One question, when you have solar going, do you switch out the cables to your PLB40 from your 12v socket to Anderson connector in the Ranger to the solar's anderson when you are parked? Could you have a splitter cable that had 2 inputs and one anderson output into the PLB? Any way to have both of them on line at all times and receiving power from alternator when running and solar when key is out of ignition? Would be nice to be able to leave things be and just be able to plug in when needed and let the fridge run.

I only run the system off solar. I park the ranger outside, and will bring the PLB 40 inside when it's crazy cold. And I turn the whole thing off when not in use. Otherwise, it'll run permanently with no input from me at all.