Shouldn't be any issues with that, as long as the wire gauge is sufficient (to the buzzer). You'll want to confirm that the voltage at IE1 remains "firm" with the new connection under the load of all the dome lights.
Dome lights and Diodes. Or just lights that don't work. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter solomrus
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
i pulled the wire i am going to use from my spare harness. it is literally the wire from the E12 splice to the IE1 connector in the a-pillar. i de-pinned it from the extra plug, and cut the wire at the splice. i'll solder that wire into the wire for the buzzer, then pin it into the IE1 connector and see if it rains down light on the back of my bald noggin. 8^)
--r
--r
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
What are the diodes for? Don't remember seeing them in the EWD
IIRC, isolating the driver's door for the key cylinder light and also for the door lock controller.
- Thread starter
- #25
crshr answered the diode question far better than i could have.
implemented the jumper plan with success. my dome lights are now powered off of pin 9 of the key reminder buzzer. which is powered from the same splice as the domes usually are. however, it's no longer a parallel wire from the splice, they are sharing power from the same wire.
for y'all that have no dome lights, check the L-Y wire in pin position one of the IE1 connector. it should be tucked into the a-pillar with the d/s door harness. that's where it ties into the roof circuit. check that pin for 12v to ground. it's always powered. if you get nothing there, check it back to the EA1 connector after the dome circuit fuse in the engine compartment. you might get a good tone(i did) for continuity, but i wasn't getting any voltage to that pin.
the ideal repair would be to replace the wire from the connector all the way back to the splice. i don't hate myself enough to pull that harness out of the bulkhead enough to fish a new wire thru it. this solution was quick and maybe not too dirty.
thank you for your assistance landcrshr. you are a gentleman and a scholar.
--r
(edited for crap spelling!)
implemented the jumper plan with success. my dome lights are now powered off of pin 9 of the key reminder buzzer. which is powered from the same splice as the domes usually are. however, it's no longer a parallel wire from the splice, they are sharing power from the same wire.
for y'all that have no dome lights, check the L-Y wire in pin position one of the IE1 connector. it should be tucked into the a-pillar with the d/s door harness. that's where it ties into the roof circuit. check that pin for 12v to ground. it's always powered. if you get nothing there, check it back to the EA1 connector after the dome circuit fuse in the engine compartment. you might get a good tone(i did) for continuity, but i wasn't getting any voltage to that pin.
the ideal repair would be to replace the wire from the connector all the way back to the splice. i don't hate myself enough to pull that harness out of the bulkhead enough to fish a new wire thru it. this solution was quick and maybe not too dirty.
thank you for your assistance landcrshr. you are a gentleman and a scholar.
--r
(edited for crap spelling!)
Last edited:
You're welcome 
Thanks for the follow-up, so many of these threads go nowhere!
Thanks for the follow-up, so many of these threads go nowhere!
- Thread starter
- #27
You're welcome
Thanks for the follow-up, so many of these threads go nowhere!
i've noticed this... i don't know what it is. do people give up and just not fix it?! i can't do that, it hurts me.
i messed around trying to find a "problem" with this for 3 weeks before i dredged up a copy of an EDM that looked right by what i could see on the truck. then i spent a couple nights actually figuring out how to read it. once it clicks, they are very easy to follow. it's the individual componentry that show up in the schematics that throw me for the loop... hence being sidetracked with the diodes and the "short" the other night. once i stepped away from it and looked at it without the other crap, it was pretty much, yup, he's right. i was on a snipe hunt.
i've got a couple door switches to clean up a little better, but for the most part, YAY!!!! DOME LIGHTS!!!
now, on to the next projects... re-sealing the hatch glass and the moldings under the sliders. that ought to keep most of the moisture out this winter. axle rebuild, new shocks, spring shims for the saggy, brakes, exhaust leak, plugs, wires, cap, rotor... did the water pump and rad this summer. i'm sure i'll come up with more to do's.
love this truck.
now, tomorrow is the difficult one. we've got an 06 sti in the shop that i have spent several months putting together in my spare time for out contractor friend. spent part of today prepping for an initial start up and run in. downloaded the map from the tuner to his access port, hop in the car to flash then start. oh, not seeing the ecm, eh? cheeky bastard. my partner/other tech started digging into it because he loves electrical diagnostics. and i am not even being sarcastic here. all the other systems will make comms with the select monitor tool, save for the engine control system. he usually comes up with good ideas when he sleeps on it. we'll find it. probably something this idiot forgot. i've been known to do that...
--r
Where are those diode blocks located? I've got problems with clock and door open light in dash at the moment on my rhd hzj80 which doesn't have any chime relay or headlight retainer or anything fancy. Dome lights in mine are working. Clock display goes off with any door open and ign in acc or run, and the door open light has stopped working.
