Does this Birfield need replaced?

[slambson]

Pulled the drivers side birfield. I'm divided as the whether this birfield is too worn to be put back in or not. Please take a look at the pics.

 

[cruiserdan]

Was it making any noise?

 

[slambson]

Every once in awhile, mostly when backing at full lock I could hear something. I had the diff soup on this side and only noticed the click after the axle started weaping. Should I swap the sides?

 

[landtank]

At 182k I'd probably replace it. Kind of depends on what you intend for the truck. If you don't wheel it too much I'm sure someone would give you something for it as a trail spare.

 

[cruiserdan]

I agree with Rick, if it was making noise I would consider replacing it. I don't think switching sides would be of much benefit at this point. What are your usage plans for the vehicle?

 

[GXO]

Replace it. Keep that as a trail spare.

My vote is in.

 

[Tooth Fairy]

I replaced both of mine that looked like that.

Replace them both and give them to me for spares.

 

[slambson]

At 182k I'd probably replace it. Kind of depends on what you intend for the truck. If you don't wheel it too much I'm sure someone would give you something for it as a trail spare.

Well, I had grandious plans but, as in most things, times change. Realisticlly, 95% usage is onroad. It will probably get 10 days a year of light to medium trail usage. And the occassional run up the side of the mountain. Usually one of the base camp situations where your all standing around staring at the side of the mountain and someone says..... Both sides were like this.

Couple of quesions:

If I throw these back in, what seals would I have to swap out in a few weeks when the new pieces show up?

How many bills am I looking at for two OEM Birfields?

Would this wear contribute to the slop in the drivetrain?

Alternatives? Newfield, rebuild?

 

[ppc]

My leftside birfield had smaller groves than your picture and was clicking most of the time(120K miles). There really wasn't much difference in the leading/trailing surfaces where the balls travel. I switched sides during my recent repack and now the righthand side clicks. I'm not going to replace them anytime soon but the noise bugs the hell out of me.

 

[Klunky Chris]

Every once in awhile, (clicking) mostly when backing at full lock I could hear something. I had the diff soup on this side and only noticed the click after the axle started weaping.

Ok guys, could he have caught it soon enough??? It sounds like he had little to no lubrication on that birf? Mine was clicking when locked (never heard it on the road) and a repack shut it up. I didn't dissasemble it so I don't know what it looked like inside.....

I guess it depends on what your time is worth. You could repack it and see. If it still clicks and you pull it to replace it, it'll be lengthy, but not bad. IMO the worst part of the knuckle overhaul is the knuckle studs (steering arm) and just the PITA of cleaning everything. You won't have to do either. You won't need to replace any seals either.

just a thought

 

[mabrodis]

Definetly looks more worn than mine were at 65K miles...just for comparison, here is what mine looked like at 65K miles: I don't remember if this was the passenger or driver's side, my driver's side had no grease at all, just gearlube, but I don't remember it looking any different as far as wear..

 

[slambson]

It sounds like he had little to no lubrication on that birf?

FWIW, there was still some grease in the birf on the drivers side (the contaminated side). I caught it pretty quick. We kept the driving to a mininum. The passenger side was well lubed and the grease in good condition and the wear was as bad if not worse.

I guess it depends on what your time is worth. You could repack it and see. If it still clicks and you pull it to replace it, it'll be lengthy, but not bad. IMO the worst part of the knuckle overhaul is the knuckle studs (steering arm) and just the PITA of cleaning everything. You won't have to do either. You won't need to replace any seals either.

just a thought

The worst part for me was the tie rod ends. I got the drivers side but just dropped the whole arm on the passenger side. I did not want to maul the boots so I used a three jaw puller. I really need to buy one of those pullers specifically for ball joints as I gave up on the passenger side until I get one.

No seals? Hmmm.... I still do not have it all together. Maybe it's time for that 2WD conversion. Cheaper than a pair of $600 Birfs.

I called Marlin and they don't have a Bellfield for these. The Canadian with the Smurfs e-mailed me back and says he does not have any for an 80 either. Those MAF units are looking mighty attractive.

 

[Klunky Chris]

I actually left my TRE's on the steering arms. You can't check preload, but I didn't have any new shims anyway
NOW (of course... AFTER I'm done...) I have the OTC tool you're talking about.

Well worth the $60!!!

My point was that to change a birf, you don't need to pull the knuckle housing. you only need to tear down to the spindle, that's not *real* hard, and all your cone washers should still be loose. Your replacing all the seals I assume? AFTER you do that, you don't need to replace them a 2nd time to change the birf. (I'm not sure if you got what I was saying )

It just depends on what your time is worth.... if it turns out OK (and I don't know if it will) you safe the price of new birfs!

(otherwise C-dans dawgs are getting so fat they can't move! *HA!*)

 

[slambson]

My point was that to change a birf, you don't need to pull the knuckle housing. you only need to tear down to the spindle, that's not *real* hard, and all your cone washers should still be loose.

She's still stripped down to the bare nubbins.

Your replacing all the seals I assume? AFTER you do that, you don't need to replace them a 2nd time to change the birf. (I'm not sure if you got what I was saying

Nah, I thought I would just throw those crusty old seals back on. Actually, that Castrol parts cleaner ate a fair amount of the seal up in my parts cleaner. C-dan provided the seals etc...

It just depends on what your time is worth.... if it turns out OK (and I don't know if it will) you safe the price of new birfs!

It always comes down to that doesn't it.

(otherwise C-dans dawgs are getting so fat they can't move! *HA!*)

I was kind of hoping to avoid that. I think I've provided enough food as is. I might have to put mine on diets as is!

I called CV Unlimited and their Newfields are $275. Different part number for each side and supposedly the 88-94 FJ80's use the same birfield??? He also said I need to buy two new drive plates to make these work for $35 each. I was hoping someone could explain why? He did give me part numbers for the drive plates which appear to be Toyota numbers. 43421-60040

I'd still like to go OEM but would like to postpone it for a month or so. I'm heading home here soon to take another peak at it make a decision.

 

[Beowulf]

mabrodis,

Unique sig line.

-B-

 

[Klunky Chris]

I called CV Unlimited and their Newfields are $275. Different part number for each side and supposedly the 88-94 FJ80's use the same birfield??? He also said I need to buy two new drive plates to make these work for $35 each. I was hoping someone could explain why? He did give me part numbers for the drive plates which appear to be Toyota numbers. 43421-60040

I'd still like to go OEM but would like to postpone it for a month or so. I'm heading home here soon to take another peak at it make a decision.

Toyota changed the splines that engage the drive plates. My new Toyota Birf needed the new drive plate. I *think* they changed in 95 but I don't know.

be WARY of those CV Unlimited Newfields. A quick search will turn you up lots of negative threads..... including the new, newer, newfields.
Also, your old ABS sensor ring will need to go on the Newfield and this seems to be a very bad fit.

Personally, I would trust your clicking Toyota birfs before a Newfield

 

[semlin]

go oem or used oem or live with it. You might have caught it quick enough, and you can still swap sides which may alter the wear areas. do not rebuild. do not buy aftermarket until someone has something good to say about one.

 

[cruiserdan]

I actually left my TRE's on the steering arms. You can't check preload, but I didn't have any new shims anyway
NOW (of course... AFTER I'm done...) I have the OTC tool you're talking about.

Well worth the $60!!!

My point was that to change a birf, you don't need to pull the knuckle housing. you only need to tear down to the spindle, that's not *real* hard, and all your cone washers should still be loose. Your replacing all the seals I assume? AFTER you do that, you don't need to replace them a 2nd time to change the birf. (I'm not sure if you got what I was saying )

It just depends on what your time is worth.... if it turns out OK (and I don't know if it will) you safe the price of new birfs!

(otherwise C-dans dawgs are getting so fat they can't move! *HA!*)

HEY,

That looks just like mine


It is truly amazing how nice it is to have the proper tool for a specific job.

 

[Klunky Chris]

it's mine!

I paid for it!

I swear! I don't know who took yours!

*he he* great minds think alike?

 

[Rookie2]

mabrodis,

Unique sig line.

-B-

-B-

Has this one been taken?

:double flip: