Since the majority of the time I’m putting mileage on my LX 570 I am over 65 and it is hunkered down in the lower position. Does anyone know how to see if the alignment is OK? How much does it change from the normal position where alignment is usually done? I’ve looked through the forms and I have seen this question asked and I have never seen it answered.
Does anyone know!?
- Thread starter lxforlife10
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
At 65mph it's not in low but in N2. AHC has a mind of its own. For details see @TeCKis300 post: 2010 lx570 65 mph vehicle height - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2010-lx570-65-mph-vehicle-height.1342596/post-15561887
As you can see from the post most of us are most of the time in N or N2, thus, the alignment that actually matter is the one in the N position.
As you can see from the post most of us are most of the time in N or N2, thus, the alignment that actually matter is the one in the N position.
The general dynamic is that that suspension will trend towards toe-out when compressing. Caster also increases. So when AHC hunkers down to N2, there may be the slightest bit of added toe towards toe-out and an increase of caster. Emphasis on slightest bit.
Both deviations can be desirable at speed.
It may trend towards toe-out, but then there is more HP being put down as the driveline works against aero loads. That'll tend to pull the front axle towards toe-in which may neutralize any trend towards toe-out as it lowers.
Caster increase is good as it provides more steering stability at speed.
With all suspensions, there's a sweet spot in travel where toe-steer is minimal. That's important as the suspension is designed to cycle and absorb irregularities. Can't have the alignment change dramatically with just a little bump. So these dynamics have already been considered in its design that we don't need to re-engineer it.
Unless we start mucking up stuff with aggressive lifts and such. Which is why I'm a firm believer in less is more, and stay away from large static lifts that really impact geometries.
The OEM toe spec is pretty tolerant at -0.17° to 0.17°. My preference is to aim towards neutral toe.
Both deviations can be desirable at speed.
It may trend towards toe-out, but then there is more HP being put down as the driveline works against aero loads. That'll tend to pull the front axle towards toe-in which may neutralize any trend towards toe-out as it lowers.
Caster increase is good as it provides more steering stability at speed.
With all suspensions, there's a sweet spot in travel where toe-steer is minimal. That's important as the suspension is designed to cycle and absorb irregularities. Can't have the alignment change dramatically with just a little bump. So these dynamics have already been considered in its design that we don't need to re-engineer it.
Unless we start mucking up stuff with aggressive lifts and such. Which is why I'm a firm believer in less is more, and stay away from large static lifts that really impact geometries.
The OEM toe spec is pretty tolerant at -0.17° to 0.17°. My preference is to aim towards neutral toe.
On a flat and straight roadway, knowing tires are all at correct pressure will take my hands off the wheel and make sure the vehicle still tracks straight. I keep my hands 1 inch off the wheel just in case.
You can also eyeball looking straight on
You can also look at tire tread wear to see if it is consistent across the tire on your front tires
HOWEVER, this doesn't prove you are in alignment, only that you are not drastically out. Typically, that is good enough for me. When I change or repair a component on the front end, I follow-up with an alignment.
If you are concerned, take it to a shop that does 4WD alignments
You can also eyeball looking straight on
You can also look at tire tread wear to see if it is consistent across the tire on your front tires
HOWEVER, this doesn't prove you are in alignment, only that you are not drastically out. Typically, that is good enough for me. When I change or repair a component on the front end, I follow-up with an alignment.
If you are concerned, take it to a shop that does 4WD alignments
- Thread starter
- #5
I said lower. And
I said lower. Not low. And that is not an answer. And the alignment at speed is what I’m talking about. N is only up to 65. I get that you align the vehicle in n. I’m asking if it’s possible to align in the lower position, not low. It’s a large drop. I know it rides better. And it becomes more aerodynamic. Does it affect tire wear? And mileage?
- Thread starter
- #6
I have alignment perfect at n. It gets a lot of n2 mileage and it wears the inside of the tires as you would expect from the change that takes place when it lowers. Can’t it be aligned to be in spec at n2? Is there a way to get car to n2 and be aligned? My car spends 90% of its life at that speed. I guess I could manipulate it to be close by bumping it down and up to get it close on the rack. I do this when I camp to level out the vehicle. It goes up and down in reverse order when you switch it from up and down shutting of the engine when it is in a position that you want. And it will stay there. I think I will do that.
- Thread starter
- #7
And what about all the sensor lifters? Where do they align there suspension? It’s not at the same level. So why can’t you align it at a lower level if they are doing it higher?
There's other things that affect tire wear. I doubt it's the lowering at speed that's the root cause of your tire wear.
Could you share what mods you have on the rig? Specifically what wheels and offset (any spacers?), along with tires that you run?
- Thread starter
- #9
It is all stock on the Michelin 285-50 20 v
- Thread starter
- #10
Latitude hp
- Thread starter
- #11
