DIY timing belt replacement on 4.7 (1 Viewer)

[aedavis]

I am not an FJ owner currently but will be purchasing one within the next year. I have been searching everywhere for some detailed information on timing belt replacement on the 4.7 but can't find anything specific. I've only found a few people that actually change it themselves - most seem to take it to a mechanic or the dealer, neither of which are an option for me.

Is there anything unusually difficult about replacing this belt? I've done it on inline 4 cylinders before but have no experience with timing belts on a V engine. If I buy an FSM can I get through this okay? I do all my own wrenching on my stuff, up to and including engine replacements and rebuilds.

If any of you have changed your own tbelt or can point me to a website with detailed instructions, I'd sure like to hear from you.

Thanks,

Allan Davis

 

[tabraha]

This would be a good source, similar to the FSM's:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=36841

I think a few on here have talked about DIY, but I haven't seen anything more than that.

Tad

 

[Matador98]

Give tundrasolutions.com a try. You might have to join, but they have a write-up, somewhere. I have seen it.

 

[mabrodis]

I've read through the procedure on a online shop manual place. I don't remember it sounding overly difficult, but what I read (and I'm sure the FSM) lists a ton of SST (Special Service Tools) that you need, figuring out what the tool does and then if you can get by without it or make one I think would be the tough part. It looked like ALOT of work, mostly just taking things off the front of the engine to get down to the belt.

I don't have a 100-series but my sister does and her belt will need replacing soon, so I need to figure it out...or have someone on here post a nice writeup with pics..

 

[jp213a]

See following thread on DIY timing belt replcaement: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=36401

 

[bh4rnnr]

I havent done one yet on a land cruiser but have on the ls400's, and seem simaler. There is quite a bit to take off, so having a repair manual helps. Last few times when i've done them I ended up replacing the tensioners, but you can compress them by ussing a vise. New tensioners will be comressed. I dont see anything that would need a sst. Just some type of chain wrench to be able to hold the crank pully, sometimes have gotten lucky taking them of with a impact...... Just one of those jobs that has a bunch to assemble/re-assemble..

 

[Jim_Chow]

The SST that's important to have is the one that holds the crank pulley in place while you torque it to 325+ ft-lbs, assuming your torque wrench even reads that high. One guy on one of the 4runner forums a while back had a shop do his, but the shop failed to torque the crank bolt sufficiently, so the thing eventually worked loose while driving, leaking coolant all over.

 

[tabraha]

325+ ft-lbs torque wrench!?! That's a special tool in itself! Both of mine only go up to 150 or so

Tad, jealous in SC of a torque wrench like that

 

[jp213a]

The SST that's important to have is the one that holds the crank pulley in place while you torque it to 325+ ft-lbs, assuming your torque wrench even reads that high. One guy on one of the 4runner forums a while back had a shop do his, but the shop failed to torque the crank bolt sufficiently, so the thing eventually worked loose while driving, leaking coolant all over.

Nobody run out and buy a new torque wrench. The 2002 LC FSM specifies a torque value of 181 ft-lbs for the crank shaft pulley bolt (page EM-25, step 17), not 350 ft-lbs.

If the crank shaft pulley slid back toward the front end of the crank shaft, crank case oil would leak, not coolant; unless you run coolant in the crank case. Do you???

 

[Mark SR.]

FSM for timing belt replacement

I am looking to do my T belt myself very soon. I picked up a set of new FSMs from local dealer for $166 total. This parts guy has been giving me some excellent prices lately. He is in Virginia Beach. Any of you in the mid-Atlantic states need large or heavy parts, you may save on shipping costs.

-Mark

 

[Jim_Chow]

Nobody run out and buy a new torque wrench. The 2002 LC FSM specifies a torque value of 181 ft-lbs for the crank shaft pulley bolt (page EM-25, step 17), not 350 ft-lbs.

If the crank shaft pulley slid back toward the front end of the crank shaft, crank case oil would leak, not coolant; unless you run coolant in the crank case. Do you???

I was quoting an approx. value for the 1FZ engine's crank bolt (i know it's over 300 ft-lbs!). For it, you need a SST to hold the thing in place (and who knows how...a long bar to tighten it?) to achieve the required torque. I thought the 2UZ might be similar? Anyways, I thought I'd mention it just in case you were about to disassemble your engine, only to discover a ridiculously-high torque you couldn't replicate. Just checking...