So I'm in the midst of installing my Ironman stage 3
Shocks and UCA
Got the fronts in....whew that took some effort. It definitely does not go as easy as Project 200 and others do it on YouTube.
But I got a couple questions
1) Any anti-seize needed on any of the bolts or nuts? I've heard varying options.
2) Any red Loctite needed. I've heard a few source say for the sway bar linkages.
3) Which nuts and bolts really need a good accurate Torque setting.
Upper and Lower Tie-rods -- Good and tight and line up cotter pins
Lower control arm to strut -- 144 ft lbs (I know not to tighten the rest until on the ground)
Upper control arm thru bolt -- 173 ft lbs
Sway bar to linkage -- ??
Linkage to Lower control arm -- ??
Wheels -- 97 ft lbs
4) For the Swaybar linkage one of the bolts had an allen key at the tip to prevent rotation when putting on the nut (passenger side) But the Driver's side did not have that?
5) For the life of me I could not get the steering linkage tierod to come off the knuckle. I was able to do the install without removing it but Project 200 makes it look so easy but mine would not budge....
6) Of course I have 1 clip left over from the drivers side (I installed the Slee battery tray while the battery was out)....anyone remember a sneaky clip location? I looked EVERYWHERE and can't find where I took it out of. (I removed the fender liner to do the battery tray and removed some of the cover plates to get to the UCA thrubolt)
Tonight:
Rears, upper and lower trailing arms, Panhard bar and Firestone aribags for towing adjustments
Same questions as above...
I think for the trailing arms and panhard bar the advice is to just match the stock lengths and they can adjust it at the alignment as needed (going to RPM garage next week)
Shocks and UCA
Got the fronts in....whew that took some effort. It definitely does not go as easy as Project 200 and others do it on YouTube.
But I got a couple questions
1) Any anti-seize needed on any of the bolts or nuts? I've heard varying options.
2) Any red Loctite needed. I've heard a few source say for the sway bar linkages.
3) Which nuts and bolts really need a good accurate Torque setting.
Upper and Lower Tie-rods -- Good and tight and line up cotter pins
Lower control arm to strut -- 144 ft lbs (I know not to tighten the rest until on the ground)
Upper control arm thru bolt -- 173 ft lbs
Sway bar to linkage -- ??
Linkage to Lower control arm -- ??
Wheels -- 97 ft lbs
4) For the Swaybar linkage one of the bolts had an allen key at the tip to prevent rotation when putting on the nut (passenger side) But the Driver's side did not have that?
5) For the life of me I could not get the steering linkage tierod to come off the knuckle. I was able to do the install without removing it but Project 200 makes it look so easy but mine would not budge....
6) Of course I have 1 clip left over from the drivers side (I installed the Slee battery tray while the battery was out)....anyone remember a sneaky clip location? I looked EVERYWHERE and can't find where I took it out of. (I removed the fender liner to do the battery tray and removed some of the cover plates to get to the UCA thrubolt)
Tonight:
Rears, upper and lower trailing arms, Panhard bar and Firestone aribags for towing adjustments
Same questions as above...
I think for the trailing arms and panhard bar the advice is to just match the stock lengths and they can adjust it at the alignment as needed (going to RPM garage next week)