DIY Suspension Install Questions

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Nov 29, 2019
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86
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Location
Los Angeles
So I'm in the midst of installing my Ironman stage 3
Shocks and UCA

Got the fronts in....whew that took some effort. It definitely does not go as easy as Project 200 and others do it on YouTube.
But I got a couple questions

1) Any anti-seize needed on any of the bolts or nuts? I've heard varying options.

2) Any red Loctite needed. I've heard a few source say for the sway bar linkages.

3) Which nuts and bolts really need a good accurate Torque setting.
Upper and Lower Tie-rods -- Good and tight and line up cotter pins
Lower control arm to strut -- 144 ft lbs (I know not to tighten the rest until on the ground)
Upper control arm thru bolt -- 173 ft lbs
Sway bar to linkage -- ??
Linkage to Lower control arm -- ??
Wheels -- 97 ft lbs

4) For the Swaybar linkage one of the bolts had an allen key at the tip to prevent rotation when putting on the nut (passenger side) But the Driver's side did not have that?

5) For the life of me I could not get the steering linkage tierod to come off the knuckle. I was able to do the install without removing it but Project 200 makes it look so easy but mine would not budge....

6) Of course I have 1 clip left over from the drivers side (I installed the Slee battery tray while the battery was out)....anyone remember a sneaky clip location? I looked EVERYWHERE and can't find where I took it out of. (I removed the fender liner to do the battery tray and removed some of the cover plates to get to the UCA thrubolt)


Tonight:
Rears, upper and lower trailing arms, Panhard bar and Firestone aribags for towing adjustments

Same questions as above...
I think for the trailing arms and panhard bar the advice is to just match the stock lengths and they can adjust it at the alignment as needed (going to RPM garage next week)
 
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The "Bullseye" clear spot on the Lower control arm....is that just an indication of the suspension bottoming out?





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The "Bullseye" clear spot on the Lower control arm....is that just an indication of the suspension bottoming out?
Yes, the lower control arm has made contact with the bump stop.
 
Put anti-seize anywhere the factory service manual recommends. Which is.. almost nowhere. But seriously, if you live where rust is a problem it can be put in places it is a common problem, but if not I wouldn’t bother.

No red thread locker. In fact, never use the stuff unless you can apply heat to loosen it, as it is so strong it will break most hardware it is applied to without using heat first.

Just torque everything. You already have the wrench out for the other stuff. Bar to link spec is 94.

Sway bar links are very different due to KDSS so no surprise one has Allen and the other doesn’t.

I’m not certain but think I used my OTC 7315 ball joint separator. Whatever you use, it helps a ton to have the puller on it applying tension then smack the end of the driving bolt with a hammer. This impact with tension present will get damn near anything loose. Alternately hammer on the side of the metal that the tapered ball joint shaft goes through, while there is tension on it.

No clue what you mean by extra clip. Maybe post a picture..
 
Awesome reply. Pretty reinforced what I was thinking.
Will torque it all to spec.
The plastic clip is just the standard black panel push button clip. I just ended up with an extra and have no idea where it came from.
 
Should be seven on the panel above the radiator, one on the windshield washer fill port sub-section.. possibly a handful holding the plastic side panels surrounding the AC condenser coil to the core support. The fender liner clips are much larger diameter and obviously different.
 
Found it. With the help of Toyota parts diagrams

it’s behind the rear mudflap. I had put that on and ended up covering it. I thought it was the screw hole for the mudflap screw.
Maybe it will happen another poor neurotic soul in the future.
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Yes, the lower control arm has made contact with the bump stop.
How would that sound? I get an odd noise from my driver's side when hitting certain bumps not all bumps and not all angles. I have the same bullseye but I'm not sure if it's that or if a bushing is bad somewhere. They all look good. 2016 LC tough dog 45 adjustable (few thousand miles on them). I thought I had a bad shock on that side as the noise was there pieoe to rough dog. But dam it's still there on certain angles when hitting certain bumps.
 

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