DIY Roof Rack?

[Lester did that]

Btw, I’ve not worked with aluminum before, but doing some poking around on the interwebs, leads me to believe we can possibly use wood tools with aluminum specific blades... saws, routers etc...

1000% Aluminum can be cut on a table saw or chop saw. Any blade will do but if you want a perfect polished cut you need to use the right blade. And saw blade lube. You can rout it with any wood bit. Just wear safety glasses. It's not wood dust it's metal shavings flying. You can sand it and polish it as well with normal sandpaper. Drill it with any drill bit. And you can tap it super easy.

80/20 is amazing stuff and you don't need any special tools. Also they have 1000's of options for anchor hardware with all the T-slots.

Amana Tool 510101 Carbide Tipped Aluminum and Non-Ferrous Metals 10 Inch D x 100T TCG, -6 Deg, 5/8 Bore, Circular Saw Blade - https://www.toolstoday.com/v-7247-510101.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&ne_ppc_id=9907829747&gclid=Cj0KCQjw78yFBhCZARIsAOxgSx0Z4Oxuu4pOP2MDiz6LXbc9D7NmzupQlTPd_Z1YtGQsC4fy51QKn3caAoenEALw_wcB

Amazon product ASIN B000LG8Q22

 

[joyRidaz]

1000% Aluminum can be cut on a table saw or chop saw. Any blade will do but if you want a perfect polished cut you need to use the right blade. And saw blade lube. You can rout it with any wood bit. Just wear safety glasses. It's not wood dust it's metal shavings flying. You can sand it and polish it as well with normal sandpaper. Drill it with any drill bit. And you can tap it super easy.

80/20 is amazing stuff and you don't need any special tools. Also they have 1000's of options for anchor hardware with all the T-slots.

Amana Tool 510101 Carbide Tipped Aluminum and Non-Ferrous Metals 10 Inch D x 100T TCG, -6 Deg, 5/8 Bore, Circular Saw Blade - https://www.toolstoday.com/v-7247-510101.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&ne_ppc_id=9907829747&gclid=Cj0KCQjw78yFBhCZARIsAOxgSx0Z4Oxuu4pOP2MDiz6LXbc9D7NmzupQlTPd_Z1YtGQsC4fy51QKn3caAoenEALw_wcB

Amazon product ASIN B000LG8Q22

Great feedback and rec!

so if we wanted to recreate the prinsu inspired long footling slots, we could drill holes on either end and then use a router to connect the two.

this is really coming together in my head.

always wanted to have the side pieces and feet as one piece to make it look professional, but knowing that the precision required for that is outside my abilities and tools. So I guess some angle iron like in superfastmatt and Buddha’s designs will work fine.

the key for me is really nailing the roofline curve and that front angle and shape, to make it not only low profile but aesthetically appealling and blending into the truck .

 

[Lester did that]

Great feedback and rec!

so if we wanted to recreate the prinsu inspired long footling slots, we could drill holes on either end and then use a router to connect the two.

this is really coming together in my head.

always wanted to have the side pieces and feet as one piece to make it look professional, but knowing that the precision required for that is outside my abilities and tools. So I guess some angle iron like in superfastmatt and Buddha’s designs will work fine.

the key for me is really nailing the roofline curve and that front angle and shape, to make it not only low profile but aesthetically appealling and blending into the truck .

Yes.

This is not just 80/20 but any stock aluminum. It can all be tooled with normal wood working tools. Get the right saw blade and the lube stick so you don't destroy your wood blades. It's really hard on router bits so get few clean ones for a project and expect them to be dead for wood after. Just use a tap fluid for aluminum when drilling. The lube for the blades and bits is what makes it easy. Naptha will clean off all the lube when your finished.

You can make a template from 1/4" ply or MDF for the roof line. Then just clamp the template to the alum and rout it. But rough cut the alum as close as you can to the line. If you dont have a band saw you can get metal blades for a jig saw. The less material you have to rout the cleaner the cut will be and its easier on the tooling. Spiral bits work best for flush trimming alum. The down cut bits will blow the waste away from your face. Up cut works too but they are messier for the user.

 

[ekolpack]

Yes.

This is not just 80/20 but any stock aluminum. It can all be tooled with normal wood working tools. Get the right saw blade and the lube stick so you don't destroy your wood blades. It's really hard on router bits so get few clean ones for a project and expect them to be dead for wood after. Just use a tap fluid for aluminum when drilling. The lube for the blades and bits is what makes it easy. Naptha will clean off all the lube when your finished.

You can make a template from 1/4" ply or MDF for the roof line. Then just clamp the template to the alum and rout it. But rough cut the alum as close as you can to the line. If you dont have a band saw you can get metal blades for a jig saw. The less material you have to rout the cleaner the cut will be and its easier on the tooling. Spiral bits work best for flush trimming alum. The down cut bits will blow the waste away from your face. Up cut works too but they are messier for the user.

This is all great advice. Just remember to take it slow and steady, especially if using wood blades/bits....and yes, you'll probably kill them. Be especially careful with routers. A decent router will have a lot of HP behind it and if you're not careful, it can easily get away from you. Consider a shallow depth of cut, or several passes on thicker stock, and make sure to keep a strong grip on it the entire time. And yes, remove as much stock as possible beforehand.

Are you trying to duplicate the long slots/channels on the Prinsu? I can see this being super useful for positioning crossmembers or add-on accessories anywhere you'd like.

 

[joyRidaz]

This is all great advice. Just remember to take it slow and steady, especially if using wood blades/bits....and yes, you'll probably kill them. Be especially careful with routers. A decent router will have a lot of HP behind it and if you're not careful, it can easily get away from you. Consider a shallow depth of cut, or several passes on thicker stock, and make sure to keep a strong grip on it the entire time. And yes, remove as much stock as possible beforehand.

Are you trying to duplicate the long slots/channels on the Prinsu? I can see this being super useful for positioning crossmembers or add-on accessories anywhere you'd like.

Well full transparency I’m still in the couch engineering phase, which is basically surfing for designs, videos and day dreaming.

but yes that’s exactly what I was wondering... they look a bit challenging to do but if we can pull it off it adds nice functionality and professionalism.

the UpTop sides and design/functionality is neat also...but even more challenging for a diy-er.

 

[bentonrover]

This does me just fine.

 

[ekolpack]

This does me just fine.

View attachment 2690460

Man, this is REAL. tempting...or figuring out a way to convert the stock crossbeams to dual slot 8020 track (like on Front Runner)....man, that would be amazing if it could be relatively easily done. Hmmmmm....

I still like the idea of a full rack for added versatility, platform space, mounting options, walkable platform, etc....but this is a very cool option!

 

[ekolpack]

As for grounding accessories on roof rack, what's the consensus on the best way to do this? Ground rack itself somewhere then use rack frame as a ground? Setup a single grounding point/bus bar somewhere and connect all accessories direct to that?

 

[MRB21]

Here's mine. Went with the 6 Gamiviti feet and DIY'd the rest. Just super strut and aluminum angle.

I want to DIY a roof rack, but I want to purchase pre-made mounts/gaskets. Any ideas?

I want to buy a set of pre made mounts/gaskets/hardware and then build my roof rack to those mounts, which would really just be drilling holes in the main bars to match the mounts. Anyone know of a roof rack manufacturer that sells like extra or replacement mounts for their roof racks that might...

forum.ih8mud.com

View attachment 2686895

Nice work and nice Pic!

 

[MRB21]

I know, the title alone is cringy. But I'm talking a well designed, properly built rack, possibly using 6-8 professionally made feet (Gamiviti?) since that seems to be the most important part for structural integrity. Has anyone tried something like this?

I know it's easier to just buy a rack....for $1000+.....but I really don't mind building stuff, in fact I enjoy it. And I love the fact that I could customize it exactly how I want....and saving $700+ I can put into something else is a pretty nice cherry on top.

I'm thinking a design like this (parts list and PDF blueprints in description) yet closer to his original design (in his previous video) that used flat bar "Prinsu style" rails cut to the contour of the roof instead of flat angled stock.



This guy has a pretty cool design....very similar to above but perhaps a bit more elegant looking.

What say you hivemind? Thanks!

Hi there! just wondering what happened with the project? Did you get it done?

 

[Nooooooooob1]

Nice work and nice Pic!

Thanks! It's been on there about a year now. Holding up great other than some minor paint chipping but no big deal. Getting ready to mount an awning to it as well.

 

[ekolpack]

Hi there! just wondering what happened with the project? Did you get it done?

I'm pretty sure I'm just going to go with a cheaper aftermarket add-on rack (like Arkenson or similar on Amazon). While they are not as elegant as a custom design/fitted option that replaces the stock rack, they have the following benefits:

1. Cheap
2. Easy to install
3. Easy to uninstall (which helps preserve resale value....not everyone wants a big aftermarket roof rack)
4. Retain factory mounts, which are solid
5. Lots of sizes and options available

With one of these racks, I can keep my Cruiser looking and behaving stock (less wind noise, drag, weight, etc.) until I need/want the rack, then I just attach it. I may even be able to work out a system in my garage where it's already loaded up, packed and ready to go, but is suspended from the ceiling on a pulley system, which can just lower down onto the roof for mounting whenever I need it. This not only stores all my extra stuff up and out of the way on a platform, but also makes it very easy to strap all that stuff to my Cruiser and quickly hit the road when desired. I think this is the best all-around option with minimal fussing, minimal cost, minimal drag/noise in normal city driving, and minimal modification of factory equipment to retain maximum resale value. That said, for anyone who wants a custom DIY rack and has more time and shop skill than $$$, I think the DIY option is excellent.