DIY oil change questions

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by ictcruiser, Jun 30, 2005.

  1. ictcruiser

    ictcruiser

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    Ok, I'm a bit of a DIYer and would like to change the oil in my cruiser. I have searched but have not found a list of needed tools or instructions to do so. Anybody have an idiot's guide to DIY Landcruiser oil changes?

    I know that I need:

    1. Large oil drain pan(have this allready.....will accomodate 15 quarts)
    2. 8 quarts of Mobile 1 5-30
    3. Oil filter

    Anything else I'm missing? Toyota specific tools? Does anyone have a link to or can copy and paste step by step instructions on how to do it?
     
  2. Landpimp

    Landpimp GOLD Star

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    12mm(might be 10) socket for the metal oil filter access.

    philips screw driver for the plastic oil pan/drain access, or a 8mm I think

    14mm? (I forget, got to many different sizes on the other cruiers) for the drain. an extension is needed to reach the drain I recall.

    I would sudjest a new drain plug gasket(toyota)

    oil filter wrench, I like the snap on version, but I think a normal one will work.

    and if your like me.........a diet so my fat ass can squeeze under a stock LC with running boards to get to the oil drain ;) (found out the LX470 suspension is quite handy for this though) on the LC I had to install a Slee suspension so I could drain the oil............what a bummer ;)

    I prefer OEM or Wix filters

    John
     
  3. DMX84

    DMX84

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    Note: Napa Gold filters are made by WIX.
     
  4. ictcruiser

    ictcruiser

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    Thanks!

    I had forgotten about getting a new drain plug gasket. Excellent advice!

    I'll do the "slide" test over the weekend to see if a diet is in order. ;)
     
  5. hoser

    hoser SILVER Star

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    Speaking of oil changes--I was talking to my Supra buddy and he mentioned how the guys on the Supra forums are using Lexus oil filters--in particular, the GS400 filter (and probably others). The ones I have now are made in Thailand and only cost $4-6. The ones in following URL seem to be of high quality--of course at a higher price ($8-10 and made in the Japan). I have not had a chance to cut apart my OEM filter to compare though. I'd like to see if this filter fits our 100's.

    http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/parts/toyota_filter/index.html
     
  6. hoser

    hoser SILVER Star

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    For most my cars, I use an oil extractor. One drawback is that it doesn't have enough capacity to drain all 7 or 8 quarts and the oil should be warmed up otherwise it can be slow. On the upside, you don't need to replace the drain plug gasket.

    Similiar to this one:
    http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122
     
  7. calamaridog

    calamaridog

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    WIX mfg. a great filter but if you are doing an extended drain interval with Mobil 1 oil then spend the extra money and get the Mobil 1 filter also. The Mobil 1 oil filter is one of the best.

    I'm planning a 10,000 mi. drain interval with the M1-209 filter which is slightly larger than the one specified for the 4.7V8. The M1-209 has the same specifications except for being larger.

    I have always used WIX filters with regular 3,000 mi. drain intervals and regular oil and I know they are very good for that application.
     
  8. NMuzj100

    NMuzj100

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    These made in Japan foam block filters are superior and also not available at any price for the most part. Cdan has said that he had a private stash box and could get no more. You do get one with each new cruiser from Japan so if you just want to tear one apart offer to do the first oil change on a new 100 or buy a 2uz crate engine.

    Both the newer Thailand OEM filters and the WIX are great filters.

    For all lube,oil and filter ?s www.bobistheoilguy.com can't be beat. Lots of used oil analysis on the 4.7L. Mostly a waste of time because the engine gets great wear numbers and is easy on even the cheapest oils.

    One problem I had changing the oil for the first time is that the OEM filters are a much different size can than the standard filter (say Wix) for the 4.7L so make sure you size your filter wrench for the size on the truck not the new filter in the box if it is different. I had to go back to the parts store for a new filter wrench first oil change since it was almost welded in there by some dealer gorilla.

    Take the 8mm nutdriver under the truck with you. Much easier to take off the covers with it then a flat-head screwdriver.

    New gasket is cheap and well worth it. A good parts department will comp you one when you by something else.
     
  9. Greg B

    Greg B

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    Great info guys, sometimes even the most basic of maintenance needs going over. I'm about to do my first oil change and didn't realize there was an access panel in the skid plate. I'm sure that would have had me scratching my head for a few minutes. I probably would have had to actually read the manual. Thanks for the heads up.
     
  10. Landpimp

    Landpimp GOLD Star

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    2 access panels, one for the filter(that the metal one) and one for the drain(thats the plastic one)

    and do to some kind ih8mud member I have a box of those Japanese OEM filters :)

    and I like the snap on wrench as it fits any size filter.

     
  11. Glockenspiel

    Glockenspiel

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    call me kind.

    thanks for the oil change reminder. as if the blinking light wasn't enough...

    --
    patrick
     
  12. Landpimp

    Landpimp GOLD Star

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    you be kind :)

    what light ?

     
  13. Glockenspiel

    Glockenspiel

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    on my 2004 there is a damn maintenance required light on the dash that starts blinking at 4500 miles and goes solid at 5000 intervals. you've got to reset with a odometer button press while turning the key or something like that.

    --
    patrick
     
  14. Landpimp

    Landpimp GOLD Star

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    interesting.

    I thought you sold your Cruiser...............hope you don't want those filters back ;)

     
  15. Glockenspiel

    Glockenspiel

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    nay. sold my Tundra to get the Cruiser. i had the case of filters left over from the Tundra. although i do miss the Tundra some times... you can keep the filters.

    sorry, hijacking the thread. done now. thanks.

    --
    patrick
     
  16. jp213a

    jp213a

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    For DIY oil changes, the FRAM Sure Drain makes the job a lot less messy. The cost is around $12-13 at most auto parts stores. The part number that fits the 2UZ-FE engine drain plug thread is SD-3. For more details: http://www.autobarn.net/frasdseries.html
     
  17. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    don't know about this one, but in general I'd rather not have anything under there that has some sort of opening where fluid could go out unexpectedly...
     
  18. NMuzj100

    NMuzj100

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    For a drain valve this may be a better system.

    http://www.fumotovalve.com/

    A lot of guys on BITOG swear by them. Makes getting that UOA sample easier.
     
  19. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    let's not forget that some here may end up dragging their bellies over rocks someday. You don't want things to protrude too much I would think, even with skids...
     
  20. Travis351

    Travis351

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    There is no mention of drain plug torque values on here. My 1999 FSM reads 29 ft lbs.
     
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