Hopefully this helps the next guy either fitting big tires or those with aggressive offsets. The 200-series has some pretty beefy fender lips so I'll start by saying what's here will buy limited more clearance. Real clearance may require cutting the fender lip or getting more aggressive.
I'm fitting 35x12.5" tires, on +35 offset (1" spacer on stock offset 60mm wheels).
I've always known the clearance was really close. The front I was able get the clearance I need with just bending some tabs by hand and moving the liner above the tabs. The rear will generally tuck just fine when articulated. It's the full square sit situation, when hitting or landing whoops hard, that the tire shoulders are challenged for space and just kiss the lip edges in my setup. Note I have a stock panhard and I find the axle to sit pretty centered at full stuff. For anyone running an adjusted panhard, the sit will not be even between the body, and may see more interference on the passenger side.
I opted for a cheapy (but not the cheapest), anticipating needing to mod. It did the job. This one is a bit larger than the cheapest ones and has a few inches more reach. I've owned an Eastwood before (last guy never returned before moving out of state). This knockoff is perfectly functional. But none of them should be manhandled. Rather use the tool to progressively work the fender 2-4 inches at a time. Overlapping sections being worked.
Lube the washer/lock nut combination on the back of the longest adjust bar. A small hit of WD40 is just fine. That one sees a lot of pressure and don't want to spin off the nut while using the tool.
Also need a heat gun. Possibly hammer or mallet with a block of wood to get certain edges started.
Amazon product ASIN B07KF4M33R
No fender roller is going to mount to our large 5x150 hub. I was able to get the base sufficiently mounted just captured on the edges of the stock wheel nuts. Then using a random piece of metal to span the upper part of the base to support.
I'm fitting 35x12.5" tires, on +35 offset (1" spacer on stock offset 60mm wheels).
I've always known the clearance was really close. The front I was able get the clearance I need with just bending some tabs by hand and moving the liner above the tabs. The rear will generally tuck just fine when articulated. It's the full square sit situation, when hitting or landing whoops hard, that the tire shoulders are challenged for space and just kiss the lip edges in my setup. Note I have a stock panhard and I find the axle to sit pretty centered at full stuff. For anyone running an adjusted panhard, the sit will not be even between the body, and may see more interference on the passenger side.
Tool:
I opted for a cheapy (but not the cheapest), anticipating needing to mod. It did the job. This one is a bit larger than the cheapest ones and has a few inches more reach. I've owned an Eastwood before (last guy never returned before moving out of state). This knockoff is perfectly functional. But none of them should be manhandled. Rather use the tool to progressively work the fender 2-4 inches at a time. Overlapping sections being worked.
Lube the washer/lock nut combination on the back of the longest adjust bar. A small hit of WD40 is just fine. That one sees a lot of pressure and don't want to spin off the nut while using the tool.
Also need a heat gun. Possibly hammer or mallet with a block of wood to get certain edges started.
Amazon product ASIN B07KF4M33R
Mounting roller tool to hub:
No fender roller is going to mount to our large 5x150 hub. I was able to get the base sufficiently mounted just captured on the edges of the stock wheel nuts. Then using a random piece of metal to span the upper part of the base to support.
Rolling tips:
- Set chocks on all 3 other wheels!! (important for later)
- Use jack to articulate one wheel position up as high as it can go to help the tool reach the fender. AHC low makes it easy. I can imagine a stiff springed LC may have more difficulty here.
- Once tool is setup, need the hub to be able to turn freely. This will require putting the vehicle in neutral and releasing the parking brake. And listen to annoying warning. Important to chock car in step 1!!
- As said, work a 2-4" of fender lip at a time.
- Heat gently with heat gun first to help paint and sealer flex.
- Setup the roller wheel to a good bending angle. Try to keep the lip as centered on the roller wheel as possible otherwise any pressure on the edgest will just change the angle no matter how hard it's tightened
- Work the tool to apply pressure progressively and keep rolling back and forth the small section
- Overlap and work the next section. May need to adjust tool. and remember to keep fender lip centered on roller.
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