Distributor install

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Can someone walk me through the install of a distributor on a 2F? I bought another 60 but the distributor is bad, so I wanted to replace it with the one from my bad 2F so I can drive this thing home. How hard is this? Average amount of time involved? The Haynes manual is like reading Japanese for me, talking about lining this up with that, not turning the crankshaft... I am an idiot. Thanks.
Todd
 
not sure if you will disturb the oilpump shaft, but if you can pull the distr out make sure the rotor is facing the same direction as before you took out the bad one. then go home and time it. this is very crude though
 
The two important things that have to happen when installing a distributor are that the dizzy gear meshes with the correct tooth on the cam and that the bottom of the dizzy shaft engages the oil pump. If the engine currently has a dizzy in it, its not too hard. Its when the egine has been apart and nothing is lined up that it becomes more difficult. Remove the distributor cap and look at the direction the rotor is pointing. As you pull the dizzy out, it will rotate a bit because the gear has a helical cut. When the gears loose contact, it will stop turning. Set up the new dizzy to be pointing the same direction. When you push it in, it should turn and finish in the same place as the original. Since you didn't mess with the oil pump, the dizzy shaft should drop right into it. You can be sure the oil pump is engaged if the dizzy housing is seated against the flange on the engine block - ie the clamp bolt flange is flush against the surface with the threaded hole. Put on the cap, plug in the wires and coil pickup and you should be good to go - and set the timing.
 
Thanks for the info...

How do you set the timing? Another stoopid question. I am trying to drive this 60 three hours back home after replacing the distributor, so I am hoping to guage how much time I will have in it. Thanks again.
Todd
 
Timing is a little odd. you can do a search to find better info, but here are the basics:

The timing marks are on the flywheel - you'll want to use your timing light and line up on the dot (or BB, as it is sometimes called) not the line. The line is TDC, the BB is 7 degrees ATDC (I think...) there is an inspection cover just behind the dist. that you use to look for the timing mark (it's not on the pulley like a lot of cars)

If you can't see the marks clearly with the timing light, you'll want to pull the inspection plate - which is under the truck, between the motor and transmission. you'll have to hand turn the engine, or use a remote starter switch to bump the engine (make sure the coil is unplugged) and get yourself a little white paint - testors or something - and when you find the BB and the TDC line, mark them - then start the process all over again with the timing light.

Again, do a search on this - there's a good thread from a few months ago about timing in this section.

But the most important thing, as 60wag mention, is getting that dist. to engage the oil pump. If you get that wrong, your oil pump won't work and the engine will seize. It won't run more than a few miutes like that.
 
A gross way to set the timing is to start out with the dizzy set to the middle of the slot for the clamp bolt. Leave the clamp bolt loose so you can adjust it. Start the engine up, (and check the oil pressure gauge for pressure.) Then twist the dizzy to max idle speed. Then back off about 5 degrees ( a little bit) - I'm not sure which direction though but it should be obvious. I'll bet max idle will be at one end of the slot. Tighten down the clamp bolt and you should be good to go. I would fine tune the timing with a timing light as soon as you get the thing home. If its knocking like crazy when you drive it, its too far advanced, if the temp is running high, it might be to retarded ( Yea, I know 'tarded, Ha Ha) The relatively low compression of the 2F makes it pretty forgiving.
 

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