Distributor and timing

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ToyotaMatt said:
hey robert ,

any progress ?

i was thinking , do u have a internal Resister coil installed currently ?

i noticed it looks older , and has NO external resister on it

- also , did the coil work before your upgrade ?
Click to expand...

No progress too speak of. I managed to pull the distributor and double check everything. I have managed to verify that the distributor as well as vacuum advance seems to be ok. I haven't checked the vacuum line coming from the carb yet.

Yes, a internal resistor coil was added when I upgraded the ignition several years ago. I can verify that it is working fine as I zapped myself 3 times today lol. And yes, older 1962 FJ40.

Runs flawless at idle, runs like crap under load and will even spit out the carb when I hop on the accelerator. Hoping that it might just be a plugged vacuum line.
 
And the soap opera continues.

Timing light at high rpm shows the timing not staying constant sooo

Removed the vacuum line between the carb and the distributor and it stayed the same. Shouldn't that about stall???

Checked at carb for vacuum be and there's less than 1hg on my new gauge. Placing my finger on the inlet, I can barely feel it. So I guess I need to trace the vacuum issue on my carb...
 
1962fj40 said:
And the soap opera continues.

Timing light at high rpm shows the timing not staying constant sooo

Removed the vacuum line between the carb and the distributor and it stayed the same. Shouldn't that about stall???

Checked at carb for vacuum be and there's less than 1hg on my new gauge. Placing my finger on the inlet, I can barely feel it. So I guess I need to trace the vacuum issue on my carb...
Click to expand...
I had the same issue with my timing not being constant. But I didn't get to investigate further. Interested to see what the cause of yours is! I have a d-40 carb.
 
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red66toy said:
I had the same issue with my timing not being constant. But I didn't get to investigate further. Interested to see what the cause of yours is! I have a d-40 carb.
Click to expand...


its one of 3 things most likley :

- Kinked / pinched copper vacuum tube between carb and distributor

- loose compression fittings at either end / Over tightened compression fittings at either end

- or , a Cracked Red Ceramic Spacer / PCV block , and or loose carb base nuts / gaskets


what say u @red66toy ?
 
ToyotaMatt said:
Do u have the Original 1962 TOYOTA single barrel
Carburetor set up still ?

SD-40 I think it’s model designation is ?
Click to expand...

Yes, I sure do. Rebuilt not took long ago. These are older pics, but pretty much the same now.

HPIM0739.webp


HPIM0737.webp


DSC_0186.webp
 
I unfortunately don't have my 40 close by, and wont for a while. So I am going to hope @1962fj40 's solution ends up being mine when I can get back to it. :D
 
ToyotaMatt said:
its one of 3 things most likley :

- Kinked / pinched copper vacuum tube between carb and distributor

- loose compression fittings at either end / Over tightened compression fittings at either end

- or , a Cracked Red Ceramic Spacer / PCV block , and or loose carb base nuts / gaskets


what say u @red66toy ?
Click to expand...

Well the first two could can be checked off, I checked those today when I removed the vacuum line. Is it possible that there is a restriction inside the carb vacuum inlet?
 
1962fj40 said:
Well the first two could can be checked off, I checked those today when I removed the vacuum line. Is it possible that there is a restriction inside the carb vacuum inlet?
Click to expand...


Yes , sure


take your line off your carb and see if the fitting has vacuum at base idle , if it does not then u know problem at carb , if it does , then you know the copper tube sucked something inside and is clogged most likley

if the carb inlet is restricted , the RED straw on end of carb cleaner can is a good soft probe , u can shoot a short blast of carb cleaner in there too to free it up ,

i hope its that simple
 
1962fj40 said:
Timing light at high rpm shows the timing not staying constant sooo

Removed the vacuum line between the carb and the distributor and it stayed the same. Shouldn't that about stall???
Click to expand...

Always remove the vacuum line to dizzy and "plug it" when using a timing light.
Don't raise rpm when timing or else the centrifugal advance will activate and it won't be constant.
 
Cleaned up the vacuum port and line so it was getting a good vacuum through the line. Increased rpms and I could see good movement of the Octane selector knob that seems to be an easy way to verify its all working ok.

Didn't have a chance to finish up all the way, but I wanted to clarify something. With everything hooked up at idle and timing light on timing mark, if I increase rpms should I see the timing mark move or stay still??
 
1962fj40 said:
Cleaned up the vacuum port and line so it was getting a good vacuum through the line. Increased rpms and I could see good movement of the Octane selector knob that seems to be an easy way to verify its all working ok.

Didn't have a chance to finish up all the way, but I wanted to clarify something. With everything hooked up at idle and timing light on timing mark, if I increase rpms should I see the timing mark move or stay still??
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- what was clogged the Line or the port ?

- please elaborate " I could see good movement of the Octane selector knob "

- Yes , if u were to accelerate the engine from base Idle , the Vacuum advance and or Centrifugal advance would kick in

and the Base Idle Timing of 7' degrees BTDC would Advance Further



- im curious about this octane selector knob movement topic :hmm:
 
ToyotaMatt said:
- what was clogged the Line or the port ?

- please elaborate " I could see good movement of the Octane selector knob "

- Yes , if u were to accelerate the engine from base Idle , the Vacuum advance and or Centrifugal advance would kick in

and the Base Idle Timing of 7' degrees BTDC would Advance Further



- im curious about this octane selector knob movement topic :hmm:
Click to expand...

Port was clogged.

The Octane selector knob is directly connected to the vacuum advance so when you increase rpms the Octane selector knob moves inward. A great little telltale that everything is working good.
 
1962fj40 said:
The Octane selector knob is directly connected to the vacuum advance so when you increase rpms the Octane selector knob moves inward. A great little telltale that everything is working good.
Click to expand...



got it ,

i was envisioning it Rotating clockwise or counter clockwise from your description ..............


im glad your finally working all the bugs out of the system
 
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