Dissent Skid Plate Install

[radman]

1) admire the ridiculous welds, and get over the fact that your brand new skids are going to get scratched.
2) I chose to apply some wax on the inside of the skids. Maybe it will prevent mud from sticking all up in there… maybe not.
3) remove all the crappy stock skids.
4) change your oil and grease your driveshaft (if applicable)
5) remediate your rust

 

[radman]

6) Bumper Tie-in Plate first. It uses rectangular washers with a captive nut. It’s so genius that you can tighten the center 2 bolts without holding the washer because they fit between some of the bumper’s internal reinforcements.
- I’m not sure if they buy or make the recessed round washers on the outside, but they are also awesome.

 

[radman]

7) remove the 2 metal bowls covering the front diff mounts.

8) insert 2 M10 bolts about 1/4” in order to support end of the front diff skid

9) The plate won’t fit straight up over the differential mounts. Start forward a little, and then slide over top of the Mounts. If it’s sitting correctly, the rear of the plate will be held by the 2 x M10 and the front of the plate will hang from the mounts. Loosely insert remaining bolts

 

[grinchy]

I think that’s the front diff.
I’m enjoying the install instructions and pics, keep it rolling!

 

[radman]

I think that’s the front diff.
I’m enjoying the install instructions and pics, keep it rolling!

Yea, my bad… The TC plate is the last monster coming up tomorrow.

 

[TOMSRYD]

My set is being made soon. Just finished off installing my sliders about an hour ago.

 

[radman]

10) I’ll have to come back and rename the plates to their proper names, but for now I’ll call this the Oil pan Plate.
- this plate fits over the bumper tie-in plate and the Front Diff plate. The front diff plate has 3 captive nuts, and the other 3 bolts screw into factory captive nuts in the frame. This allows for easy removal to access oil filter and radiator drain plug without having to fumble with nut plates or washers.

 

[CO18Cruiser]

Thx for pics.

Wish dissent would have recessed their bolts like ARB and others, added some cutouts like slee for ventilation/drainage and an oil filter cutout like slee as well.

Im sold on their sliders, full replacement bumper, rear bumper and roof rack.

 

[radman]

Wish dissent would have recessed their bolts like ARB and others, added some cutouts like slee for ventilation/drainage and an oil filter cutout like slee as well.

Im sold on their sliders, full replacement bumper, rear bumper and roof rack.

As far as the oil filter cutout... I personally don't see a need for it. It's only 6 bolts to drop that Oil Pan plate, and Slee's filter access uses 4 screws for a much smaller hole. 6 bolts vs 4 screws

I'm sure there's a good reason for not recessing the bolt heads, but my guess for now is that they are able to keep the plates 1/2" higher to the frame (thickness of the bolt head).

 

[arrivederci]

Thanks for the pics. I installed mine on Friday. A few things to note.

1) Tons of extra hardware...possibly included enough if I were installing the LC200 kit with the TC guard?

2) I used the counter sunk bolts everywhere I could. Maybe the allen heads will get filled with dirt and I'll regret it. But as some said they'd prefer recessed, maybe this is a good compromise.

3) I overlapped the plates a little differently so as not to have a sharp edge exposed to the front.

 

[radman]

1) Tons of extra hardware...possibly included enough if I were installing the LC200 kit with the TC guard?

2) I used the counter sunk bolts everywhere I could. Maybe the allen heads will get filled with dirt and I'll regret it. But as some said they'd prefer recessed, maybe this is a good compromise.

3) I overlapped the plates a little differently so as not to have a sharp edge exposed to the front.

I haven’t gone through the extra hardware yet, but yea, I assumed it was all for my TC skid.
Are the socket heads 10.9 hardness?

Good call on the overlaps. I thought about “water falling” them, but decided to keep the oil on top for ease of access.

 

[radman]

I installed mine on Friday.

Also, I’ve never seen the lower control arms used as a jack point. Is it common/safe/mud approved?

 

[radman]

11) Monster Transfer Case Plate (if applicable)
- attach the 2 aluminum brackets to the driver and passenger frame rails. Finger tighten and let them hang loose.
- remove the 4 bolts at the rear of the Diff plate, and loosen the remaining diff plate bolts enough for it to hang down a bit.

- insert 2 captive nut washers into the frame crossmember (captive nut facing up) at the rear of the TC plate.

- The front of the TC plate has a “hook” that will grab the frame crossmember. Lift the plate and slide it under the Diff plate, and the front will be supported by the hook.
- jack stands can be used to hold the rear of the plate while you insert two M10x50mm bolts and two 25mm aluminum spacers. Spacer goes between the plate and the frame crossmember. Flange bolt—> TC Plate —> spacer

 

[grinchy]

Did you weigh the dissent skids? I’d love to add that info to our skid thread.

 

[radman]

- note: make sure you insert the 2 captive nut washers into the frame crossmember (captive nut facing up) at the rear of the TC plate before you screw the plate in place.

- insert 6 socket head bolts into the aluminum brackets with captive nuts (3 on each side). Leave them finger tight

- insert the last 2 socket head screws into the rear of the plate… where you inserted the captive nut in the previous step. You can use the holes in the frame to align and hold the nut in place.

 

[radman]

- Make sure everything is aligned properly, and then snug up all the bolts.

- the 4 bracket bolts are the last to get tightened. It’s a tight fit, but enough room to lock them down.

 

[777Gage]

I called Dissent the other day, inquired about this set but they won't be doing another run until mid year at the earliest. Then called Budbuilt and they had a full set in stock, being delivered on this Wednesday.

 

[benc]

Thx for pics.

Wish dissent would have recessed their bolts like ARB and others, added some cutouts like slee for ventilation/drainage and an oil filter cutout like slee as well.

Im sold on their sliders, full replacement bumper, rear bumper and roof rack.

As @radman said, recessed bolts would require the skids to be lowered and we were going for as much clearance as possible.

We have louvered holes where in counts. At the cats and in the front. This allows the air to be forced in the front cooling the engine and front diff as well as the exhaust to vent as needed. As for service, We have the service skid right after the bumper. The mating skid has pressed in nuts allowing the removal of the service skid to be done in seconds. This will also allows much better access for service vs the little window.
We also have cutouts for other service points. By far it’s easier to service with our skids vs the factory skids.

 

[SF1911A1]

Has anyone done the research to see what set of skids provides the most catalytic converter protection? I’d like to kill two birds with one stone…

 

[grinchy]

Probably these.