disc brake problems

[fieldsken1]

hi there i have the wilwood front disc from mam a fre and the monte carlo rears, i also have the gm booster and master from man a fre. i tried bleeding for a long time still got nothing. the rears build pressure and stop but they dont release. the fronts dont seem to build any presure. i cant find any reason for this. when i undo the front line at the tee it does seem to pump but poor. does anyone have any ideas. i also have a ssbc metering block with a built in proporting valve. did tried with valve in both directions no differance but that should not make any differance on the front.:whoops::whoops:

 

[cruiserjunkie]

did you bench beed the mc?

 

[fieldsken1]

i bench bleed it also i used a pressure bleeder

 

[cruiserjunkie]

I had trouble getting all the air out after my rear disk install ended up reverse bleeding where you open the valve and used an injector and some tubing to push fluid in and the air out the top to the mc

 

[fieldsken1]

i am sorry to say i did that also. thats why i am confused

 

[FJ40_68_Nick]

what about residual valves? Also, how long do those SS Braided Lines run - I hear they are not good for long runs.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

I hope someone can help us both learn someting new

 

[fieldsken1]

i used steel lines to run down the frame and diffs steel braided on the ends to master and calipers

 

[John Smith]

On the rear calipers is the bleed screw on top or bottom? You would not be the first to install the calipers upside down and have problems bleeding them. Whatever that SSBC thing is may also be your issue, I have never seen anyone use something like that on a cruiser with 4 wheel discs.

 

[dmaddox]

Hey there bud.

I have had this issue twice. And in my cases the M/C is not setup with your lines/brakes that you have installed.

This was when I put rear discs on my 77 FJ40, and by reducing the pressure on the rear, increased the pressure to the front. (using a cheap-o proportioning valve)
Also, as long as you don't have any weeping/leaks the lines are not an issue. (within reason, i.e. not a mile long with a 13/16" bore M/C). Again, the issue is just the wrong distribution of hydraulic pressure.

Have you tried w/o the metering gadget to see what the results would be? Maybe a cheaper, more simplistic proportioning valve would work for you?

Dallas

 

[fieldsken1]

i tried turning the proportioning valve both ways seems no differance. as far as the bleeders valves they are right but you can still bleed then even if upside down just pressure bleed fron the calilper forward air will go to the m/c and out

 

[Downey]

If you struck out with the MAF tech Dept ???, my guess is the next natural thing to do is head directly to a professional brake shop where they can test all front/rear pressures, along with proper proportioning and residual pressures---your family will be glad you did!!!!!

 

[alex e]

Man I'd like to know since my setup is very similar and I am in need of a booster, MC and proportioning valve setup eal soon..........not quite sure what to get.

 

[fieldsken1]

well as soon as i can find the problem i will post it. i have guages to check pressure just have not done it yet. this whole build is getting to be bull#$%^. glad to almost be done. well mr downey what do you guys used for m/c and booster

 

[alex e]

They recommend 80 series non ABS booster ($180 most places) and sell a big bore aftermarket master cylinder for $140, if I am not mistaken. I thought the GM stuff was cheaper though and that's why guys used it. I am still corn-fuzed.

 

[fieldsken1]

i should know why this is not working a the next couple of days then i will post in the meantime any words of widsom would be nice

 

[cmiller114]

GM MC's have residual pressure valves.....did you remove them? Even so, no pressure on fronts sounds like a bad MC to me.

 

[Downey]

well as soon as i can find the problem i will post it. i have guages to check pressure just have not done it yet. this whole build is getting to be bull#$%^. glad to almost be done. well mr downey what do you guys used for m/c and booster

Almost ANY Toyota Pickup or Landcruiser Booster can be used, although the 1976-newer are most desirable since they have a dual diaphram. Even the guy who sells Hydroboosters says he would rather sell the 1976-newer L.C.'s if he could get them. We offer a 1 1/16" bore Mastercylinder that is off of a T-100 that is not imported to the USA, not to be confused with the 1" bore T-100's that are sold in the USA!!!!!!!
Further, I can't think of any Landcruiser that does not need a Proportioning Valve, Residual Valve, and professional adjustment after installation!!!

 

[alex e]

Jim is that T100 booster more economical than the 80 series non ABS?

 

[grant5127]

We offer a 1 1/16" bore Mastercylinder that is off of a T-100 that is not imported to the USA, not to be confused with the 1" bore

I'm just starting to install one of your complete kits.....

Is this one in the pic what your referring to as a T100 1 1/16" bore?
it was in a Centric box.........