Differential breather extensions ? (1 Viewer)

[ballardcruiser]

I just checked my rear differential after seeing a lot of gunk on the rear axle (left side). As I opened the plug I heard the tell-tale sound of air escaping, so I know the diff breather must be clogged somewhere. Gotta fix it...

I know this is a good time to extend the breathers up to the firewall like so many of you guys have already done. My question is this: Why does everyone seem to cap the 1/4" fuel hoses they install here with small fuel filters instead of the stock breather. Will it not mount up? Is the original just a bad design or too much of a pain to clean? Does it matter?

Just wondering... gotta tackle this project by next weekend (roadtrip is coming up) and want to do it right.

thanks -
Jason

 

[2mbb]

Was the sound you heard air escaping or vacuum escaping (air rushing in). I think OEM breathers are like little check valves. When the axles heat up, the let the expanding air escape (without blowing out your axle seals). If you go through water and quickly cool down the axle, the hot expanded air contracts. The breather valve is supposed to keep water from being sucked in. However if it's leaking, it lets the water in.

I think the best thing you can do is elevate the end of the breather as high as you can go. Some people tie them into their snorkles or route them into the drivers compartment (glove box, etc.). Another solution is a bellows instead of the a breather valve. Some filters, like fuel filters (maybe) are made of materials that won't let water through, except under very high pressures.

Here's an article about waterproofing your Land Cruiser: http://www.rockcrawler.com/departments/landcruiser/whatley/jan0198/jan0198.htm

 

[ballardcruiser]

Thanks 2mbb. I think it was air rushing in (like when you open a jar of peanuts, but not so severe), though I can't tell. Just heard the sound and then the oil poured out shortly afterwards.

I hadn't driven the car for about 16 hours when I did this inspection. The day before, I did get back from a longish (250 miles) day trip and the weather was warm. I was still a little shocked that the air inside hadn't equalized after all that time. Must be really clogged.

I read that article and it has some great advice. Mostly I was wondering why some folks do the fuel filter ends while some folks (George S, for instance, on the tech pages) keep the stock valve end.

Regardless, I guess it's time to get dirty and take the thing apart and extend it.

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

It doesn't equalize because it is trying to keep every thing out side out. Maybe it is just working really well and all the seals are sealing well. This is how mine always is. I think if you heard the noise then oil came out it must have been air going in. If it was under pressure, the oil would have sprayed out with the escaping air.

 

[ballardcruiser]

Yeah, but I don't know where else all that grease could be coming from if it's not the breather. If it was a shot seal, I would think it would be dirty on both sides. But the only side of the rear axle that is really dirty is the area right around that breather hose. Guess it doesn't hurt to change it and clean up the mess down there and see what happens.

 

[3F62]

Here are mine on my 62 Series, brought up to the top of the firewall, I have seen chainsaw fuel filters work well also.

 

[ballardcruiser]

That looks very clean 3F62! I'll have to look for something like that.

 

[Gumby]

Get the little breather balloons. Then you don't have to worry about them.

 

[WES1977]

This is for my FJ40. Bet it's the same for your 60. From Toyota. The plug and the union work great. Both are designed to work with the hose(i think it's 1/4").

 

[Benji]

I routed my breather hose up to the firewall. I used a fuel filter so dust etc. would not be sucked down to the differential. Plus it gives it a nice finishing touch. I think this is a common set-up. I'll post a pic later in the day.

 

[cbmontgo]

I know this is reviving an old thread, but are there any other pics of these breather extensions on a 60/62? What kind of hose are you guys using? 1/4" fuel hose?

Benji, I remember you mentioned this a long time ago when you first did it. I'd like to see some pics of your setup...

 

[ballardcruiser]

Wow ... a blast from my past!

This was really pretty easy to do. You go to Napa (or anywhere) and get 1/4" low pressure fuel line. It's an easy plug and play fit. You'll need a fair amount of it...25 or 30' if I remember correctly for front and rear. Once you get the hose, walk over to the fuel filter section and you'll see that some will just stick right into the hose, some will not. Get one that will. You'll also need some 1/4" hose clamps (like mini radiator hose clamps) and some zip ties. That's about it.

I don't have any pics right now but back at the garage you can be a little creative with how you fasten to the hose the frame (I used zip ties) and how you route it up into the engine compartment (some use a plastic t to bring the lines together, I did not). Pretty much anything you do will be an improvement over stock, though. I just followed the frame rail and tried to keep the hose away from moving parts. Not too hard.

 

[meluhha]

El Carson,
Here is a list of the parts I got from McMaster Carr.

1. Low Pressure Fuel-Line Hose 1/4" (30ft) - 54605K27 - $21.30
2. Barbed Tube Fitting 1/4", female (x2) - 44555K125 - $6.10
3. Barbed Tube Fitting Tee 1/4" - 44555K138 - $2.21
4. Bronze Breather 1/4" male (x2) - 9833K22 - $2.12

Total: $31.37 + the ride

I seem to remember having a little bit of hose left. I also tied the T-case into this as well (easy when it's not in the truck!) It's a little fancy, you could probably source the same parts at your local parts shop for a little less.

I believe I reused the breather 90 angle factory mount, just removed the hose and OEM breather.

Here is the breathers (I didn't reuse my original ones, because they were fairly trashed) in the engine bay:

And a shot where they come into the engine bay:

Cheers,
Matt W.

 

[euclid]

Rather than run 2 lines up to the engine bay I used barbed brass T fittings to T mine together. Rear axle up to beside the t-case, then the first T fitting. On up to next to the front axle and another T fitting. Then on up into the engine bay. I used a clear fuel filter, but I've seen people use the stock pop off valve thingie which seems to work just fine.

The T-case vent is almost impossible to get to without lowering the t-case and trasnmission. You have to bee in some deep water to cover over the case, up over the door sills. I did mine when I rebuilt the case, and also because I like to play in the water!

 

[cbmontgo]

Rather than run 2 lines up to the engine bay I used barbed brass T fittings to T mine together. Rear axle up to beside the t-case, then the first T fitting. On up to next to the front axle and another T fitting. Then on up into the engine bay. I used a clear fuel filter, but I've seen people use the stock pop off valve thingie which seems to work just fine.

The T-case vent is almost impossible to get to without lowering the t-case and trasnmission. You have to bee in some deep water to cover over the case, up over the door sills. I did mine when I rebuilt the case, and also because I like to play in the water!

Thanks, Euclid. I don't go in deep water enough to do the t-case, but I do want to take care of the axles. I am heading to Big Bend in a few months, and there are some relatively small creek crossing there that can fill up quickly in a flash flood. Good info...

 

[89s rule]

I ran my rear up into my fuel fill, and my front nup to the firewall. I was able to reuse the factory ends, but am curious what the blue filter things were as posted above, thats a nice touch!

 

[kevinmrowland]

The T-case vent is almost impossible to get to without lowering the t-case and trasnmission.

Remember Greg, that is only on the 62s, the 60s have plenty of room.
And like you said, you need to lower the transfer on a 62 to get at it, but a jack under the crossmember and pull the four bolts is all you need, not really that bad.

 

[boerboel313]

I've done the samething and it took about 30 min or so. I used a breather that looks like a small K&N filter, Very easy and a practicle mod.

 

[nuclearlemon]

i'm running everything into one hose and up to a breather for a tractor trailer oil hub...works great so far.

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

I'm about to do this but haven't gotten under my 62 recently to check the condition of my stock breathers. My question is: once you remove the stock breathers from the diffs, do you need to thread a barbed male connector into the hole in the diff so that you can attach the hose to it?