Diff Experts: Center Diff locks but no ABS light or center diff indicator

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roncruiser

roncruiser

Joined
Oct 28, 2004
Threads
72
Messages
1,077
Location
San Diego
Just got the front seal replaced on the tranny. Drove her home tonight and now the front and rear diff will not engage. Though, I know they will not engage unless the ABS light is on. No ABS or center diff engage indicator on the dash.

They were just working over the weekend. Before I bring here back to the shop tomorrow morning, are there any relatively simple checks I can do to rectify the problem? Would like to solve it myself (with the help of you guys) tonight.

Ron
 
Is that particular switch on top of the transfer case?
 
roncruiser said:
Is that particular switch on top of the transfer case?
Click to expand...
Looking from the front of the tcase back it's at 11 o'clock position. Look at Christo's tech section.
 
Look up over the front driveshaft flange on the transfer, to the left in this pic. Make sure all of the wires in the area are plugged in.

cdl_wire_3_p.jpg
 
Everythings hooked up. I even unplugged it and plugged back in. Still no ABS or center diff indicator. What's the next logical step....?
 
According to Slee's site. I unplug the connector and short the leads. Is this done with the engine on or off?
 
roncruiser said:
According to Slee's site. I unplug the connector and short the leads. Is this done with the engine on or off?
Click to expand...
Do the jumper while the engine is off. Turn the ignition on, both ABS and CDL light should come on.
 
Should I throw it into low to engage the CDL then jump it?

Thanks for the help by the way....
 
roncruiser said:
Should I throw it into low to engage the CDL then jump it?

Thanks for the help by the way....
Click to expand...
Jump it first and make sure the lights comes on then engage to low.
 
I jumped it. With the ignition switch on, both the ABS and the CDL light came on. I suppose the switch is bad. I shall replace it.

This also means that with the connector jumped I can then - but wouldn't want to- lock the front and rear diffs. Is this correct?

Could it be anthing else? I would not want to spend $50 on replacing the switch if it could possibly something else. Does all logic point to the CDL indicator swtich at this point?
 
roncruiser said:
I jumped it. With the ignition switch on, both the ABS and the CDL light came on. I suppose the switch is bad. I shall replace it.

This also means that with the connector jumped I can then - but wouldn't want to- lock the front and rear diffs. Is this correct?

Could it be anthing else? I would not want to spend $50 on replacing the switch if it could possibly something else. Does all logic point to the CDL indicator swtich at this point?
Click to expand...
You can remove the switch first to double check it. Use a meter and set it on audio, place the leads on the two leg on the switch then push the contact in and see if you get a beep or you can ohm it out if you want. You can lock your CDL just to see if your lockers work but wouldn't leave the switch jumped and forget about it. :D Yes, all logic points out to the switch at this time.
 
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Thanks for helping me out man. I'm hoping when I pull the switch after work today that it is indeed the switch. That's just me...I'm paranoid-anal about things like that. It just seems odd to me that after I get the rig from the shop, something goes wrong.

I'll post again on the condition of the switch and FR/RR locks later this evening.

Question: What iinside the transfer case depresses the diff lock indicator switch to close the circuit?
 
Last edited:
roncruiser,

Didn't see this last night - you've done well with the diagnosis. Simple to change out the switch.

You may want to try removing the switch, depressing it a few times, reinstalling and see if it 'fixes' the switch. If not, just replace it. It's not that expensive and I hear Dan's dogs are getting hungry again. hehehe
 
I couldn't wait. I took a little break from work went out and pulled the switch. Ohm'd it out and its bad! True open in normal state. Almost 1M ohm when depressed. Oh well.

Next, I'll short the connector wire side and test that the front and rear locks are working.... maybe after work.... maybe now...
 
Gotta laugh - I've done the same thing to the rear when it was locked, but indicated that it wasn't. Knock on wood - haven't had any trouble with the front indicator.

You can 'test' the rear w/o pulling off the weak little protector plate, but if you have to remove the sensor, take the protection plate off. You'll need a deep socket to do that. Was a great excuse to get a set for me. hehehe
 
Man, I'm hoping this is it! I don't want to be messing with any other bad sensors or switches. Just called the local dealer to find out the switch was a whopping $74.39.
Holy crapper!
 
roncruiser said:
Man, I'm hoping this is it! I don't want to be messing with any other bad sensors or switches. Just called the local dealer to find out the switch was a whopping $74.39.
Holy crapper!
Click to expand...

Ouch! :eek: Do NOT go to your local dealer. DO all Dan right now. Trust me, you will save $$$$$.

Brent
 
Do you think this is strictly a Toyota part or is there an aftermarket equivalent for it?

My bro. works for Carquest he can tell me. He can also order it from Toyota at a discounted price. If push comes to shove, I'll give Dan a call.
 
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