My CVs are starting to seep after cranking the torsion bars. Any major differences in these?
Diff drop...Slee or BIOR?
- Thread starter Placemotorsports
- Start date
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DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
Your CVs are leaking due to the sudden change in angle (the rubber boots have memory). A diff drop alone will not fix this. If your boots are not ripped all you need to do is reclamp the CV boots and possibly add some more grease.
If you are set on the diff drop regardless, both companies make a great product, but I would go BIOR just for the fact that it's cheaper.
If you are set on the diff drop regardless, both companies make a great product, but I would go BIOR just for the fact that it's cheaper.
- Thread starter
- #3
Planning on doing that as well, just figured I need to get the angle back closer to stock to prolong their life
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
That's the presumption that everyone seems to make on the forum because the majority of users do install the diff drop. There's also a lot of members on here that are lifted without a diff drop. For me personally, I did not see any correlation between people not installing diff drops and seeing failures (vice-versa). It was the same way in the 4Runner and the Tacoma crowd. Nobody on this forum has experienced "failures" due to not installing one, and those that have had vibration issues, I feel would have gotten the vibes with or without the diff drop. Just my $.02
^^ agree
2" lift and I'm not running a diff drop either, and at this point don't plan to. Monitoring boots & we'll see how the CVs hold up.
What is the primary reason for the diff drop? Only sales pitch I've read is to "return to Oem operating angles" but is that to save the boots from leaking, tearing, or the internal bearings & cages from wearing at advanced rate?
My reasoning for not doing a diff drop relates to discussion on its effect on propshaft operating angle and ujoints. The trade off of is front propshaft operating angles vs cv axle angles. Vibes coming from lowering the diff as it straightens the driveshaft to the point where the ujoints cap bearings don't have proper load to rotate and quickly wear out.
No easy fix to correct front driveline operating angle between diff and output flange.
Referring back to the Taco forum, the concensus is inner cv boot rubs on itself at the folds and wears through due to the increased angles- they simply stretch the boot out down the drive shaft and reband- no rub.
2" lift and I'm not running a diff drop either, and at this point don't plan to. Monitoring boots & we'll see how the CVs hold up.
What is the primary reason for the diff drop? Only sales pitch I've read is to "return to Oem operating angles" but is that to save the boots from leaking, tearing, or the internal bearings & cages from wearing at advanced rate?
My reasoning for not doing a diff drop relates to discussion on its effect on propshaft operating angle and ujoints. The trade off of is front propshaft operating angles vs cv axle angles. Vibes coming from lowering the diff as it straightens the driveshaft to the point where the ujoints cap bearings don't have proper load to rotate and quickly wear out.
No easy fix to correct front driveline operating angle between diff and output flange.
Referring back to the Taco forum, the concensus is inner cv boot rubs on itself at the folds and wears through due to the increased angles- they simply stretch the boot out down the drive shaft and reband- no rub.
- Thread starter
- #6
Very logical. I may just try rebanding the smaller boot then. The larger boot seems to be just fine.
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
jemsec
Mach lll Club
Either are good choices.
DIY
Hmmmm, That would require thought, and patience.
Respect to your "DIY'edness", but if I were to do the diffdrop I'd give Mike my $185 bucks for the bolt on kit. It would cost me more in time & effort to chase down the bits & pcs to do a DIY it.
Respect to your "DIY'edness", but if I were to do the diffdrop I'd give Mike my $185 bucks for the bolt on kit. It would cost me more in time & effort to chase down the bits & pcs to do a DIY it.
All that running around and planning will help you learn to solve problems in the future. Maybe contact some other smart people with skills.
I know I could head over to Reliable Hardware for all this stuff because of a project for my boat.
I know I could head over to Reliable Hardware for all this stuff because of a project for my boat.
NP but many others with skills and tools like to build there own stuff.
"Without deviation from the norm progress is not possible" - Frank Zappa
Doesn't hurt to just get one either way if you're planning a lift. Some things are just overthought about.
I ran 2.5" lift without diff drop for about 5 years which included lots of spirited off roading without a problem. i had braced the oem boots with hose clamps. Then passenger cv boot failed. I got to it before any clicking/axle damage, so for about $40 I got an oem reboot kit and pulled and rebuilt the axle. As always the instructions from mud made doing it myself possible, but it still took me all afternoon. A shop would have been 2.5- 3 hrs labor.
At this point I wanted the diff drop to lessen the chance of having to do this again anytime soon. I also installed SPC upper control arms to correct the caster which brought the axles further back to stock angles.
So...it's fine to say f it to save the money but once you have to deal with the time or $ rebuilding the axle you might change your mind.
At this point I wanted the diff drop to lessen the chance of having to do this again anytime soon. I also installed SPC upper control arms to correct the caster which brought the axles further back to stock angles.
So...it's fine to say f it to save the money but once you have to deal with the time or $ rebuilding the axle you might change your mind.
NP but many others with skills and tools like to build there own stuff.
"Without deviation from the norm progress is not possible" - Frank Zappa
I still have Zappa vinyl stored in the basement. He was brilliant.
My comment was an attempt at a little tongue & cheek humor, maybe poorly executed in print.
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
So the consensus is that the diff drop is only used to save cv boots. Meaning if you have old boots regardless, who's to say they're not going to fail with the diff drop? I'm with the others, I'll just put a fraction of that diff drop money towards a reboot kit if ever needed. Heck, I have 4 in my garage.
'99, lifted, 165K, no diff drop, original CV non leaking boots 
and original front diff
and original front diff
- Thread starter
- #20
More beer money for me
