DIff drop install help

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C

c7train

10 Year
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Threads
14
Messages
62
Location
Midwest
I went out today to install my Slee diff drop kit. I first scoped the job, looked simple enough. The first bolt I started to loosen was the horizontal bolt that holds the bushing and has an arm that reaches up to the axle housing and attaches with two more bolts. I could not get the freakin' thing off. I sprayed with solvent, used an impact gun, heated it with a torch, put a box wrench on it with a cheater bar, and put the cheater bar on the business end of a floor jack (broke the box wrench, but it was spurprisingly strong). I'm defeated, any other help for getting this bolt free would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
C.
:bang:
 
Mine was super tight also. I just used a box end wrench. Placed on the nut straight down. Then I crawled under the truck and gave it a solid kick and it came loose.

The pic is after it came loose so the placement of the left wrench isn't straight down.

image-721944368.webp
 
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I've never removed that bolt, but I know it can take time for penetrating oil to work. For at least a couple of days soak it with a good solvent like pb blaster and hit it hard with a brass hammer or drift as often as you can. Then use the solid kick technique or an impact wrench.
 
I used a 1/2" drive socket a 3/4" drive breaker bar... still required a bit of oomph, but it did the trick.
 
If you already burned the rubber out of it with the torch you may just want to leave it in the diff bracket and get a replacement. I've had a bunch of bad bolts on mine but thankfully that one was easy.
 
THanks for the info.

The pic posted is exactly what I did only instead of a kick I used the jack. I tried the impact wrench with no luck, penetrating oil has been penetrating since I last posted, I'll check it out and let you know. Oh, and the rubber is still all good in the bushing, I was really careful with the torch only to heat the nut. If it doesn't come off today I may hack it with a grinding wheel and just replace it.
Thanks again for the help.
C.
 
That bolt was almost the deal killer for my install too. We did everything you've done and my tech buddy was about to throw in the towel when he tried it one last time and it broke free. Cheater bar and floor jack was the trick.
 
Socket with a breaker bar. Get underneath, put your leg on the breaker bar and use your arms on the undercarriage. Push with your leg and pull with your arms. I think I was completely in the air when it finally turned.
 
what about the method of using a box end wrench on both the nut and the bolt, and taking a medium hammer all the way up to a big hammer to hit the wrench holing the nut side while the bolt head side is wedged against the frame crossmember or something very solid.


I have found the hammer on wrench method to work very well as long as the wrench fits the head of the nut/bolt very tightly.

Do not attempt this with a cheap or loose wrench.

I use Craftsman USA made only or MAC/ SNAP ON, etc. The less ofset the wrench head has, the better it will hand on the nut without being supported.

A 1 to 3 lb brass hammer works great to absorb a little of the impact and not ruin your good wrench.... and You would be amazed how hard You can hit the wrench if You get into a good position.

Sometimes, a bunch of medium hits will loosen one.


Another technique I have used along with this is to try to bump it tighter at first, which helps break the rust or corrosion lock between the fasteners, then You can loosen by changing the direction of the hammer blow to the wrench and loosen it right up.








Another option, go buy an awesome impact gun that is 750-900 lb ft of torque for reverse and feed it plenty of air CFM.

AIRCAT is a great gun...

I have used an old IR 3/4 impact with a 1/2 reducer on it before when I had room for the huge impact gun.

Also, Reduce the length of the assembly forward of the impact gun and/or minimize any slop You might have with a loose socket, or a small diameter extension (too small of an extension diameter acts like a torque stick, effectively limiting the torque available from the breaker bar or impact gun).




The last resort is to split or crack the nut.

MAC or SNAP ON sell good ones that will work.....
 
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