Diesel - Winter starting

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Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Threads
2
Messages
5
Location
Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Hey fellow Land Cruiser owners...

I'm running an 87 HJ-60 in St John's, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada.
Recent winter temps have been in the -5 to -10C range.
I'm finding I need to rely on my block heater more and more to start the engine, and have been unable to start in the mornings on days where the temp has only been about -5C overnight and the block heater has not been plugged in.

Any suggestions for winter starting or modifications for the diesel engine? Ideally, I would like to come up with a self-sufficient system, perhaps running off the batteries, where I am not reliant on being near an electrical outlet, as it is very limiting for my winter range. Next winter I'll likely be in Labrador where temps of -30C are common and would like to manage in those temps as well...I'm interested in the experience of other diesel land cruiser owners in the North and cold temperature areas..

Any feedback appreciated - thanks in advance!

Pascal
 
A couple things that are very important to get your diesel started in the colder weather.l

1; change out oil with a new synthetic 0w40. Or 5w40.

2; try cycling your ignition key on and off thru a 2-3 glow cycles before trying to start. You may have one or two plug not functioning and glowing more will help a bit. A manual switch is sometimes better than the timer they came stock with. Another trick is to disconnect the temperature sensor on the glow timer to lengthen the glow times. That's if your box isn't already shot.

-30 for next year you might have to buy an espar or webasto heater. Try searching those words.
 
Replace the super lame glow plug system with a push buitton one. Do a search for a wilson switch. This way you can give a good glow after the engine has started. Im not sure but I think yould have to change your glow plugs to 10.5volt.

A good synthetic made a huge difference to my cruiser. I also added a moly engine oil additive. Although it took a few months to notice a difference, my engine turns over noticablly faster, even when stone cold. Gives me more time to crank it before my batteries quit. I also noticed a reduction in the blow by from the vent tube. Im not sure if the moly freed up the rings or has slowly filled in some of the minor cylinder wall scorring. Anyhow its great stuff.

Put heavier cables to your starter. Made another big improvement. I used some old 1 gauge welding cable I had laying around.
 
Unplug the temperature sensor for the glow system. It's in the housing above the thermostat. The block heater warms the coolant and the temperature sensor 'tells' the glow system it's already warm, so no pre-start glow. Unplugging the sensor does the same thing as the "Wilson switch" idea, and gives one full control over the glow system with just the ignition key switch.
 
BrownBear's idea usually tends to work the best. I'm in Winnipeg where its pretty darn cold and doing the switch it on off thing works well. I also wait a little after the glow lights off to help. On cold days it may take a few tries but its usually pretty good. That's on the 70.
The manual glow system I've got on my 40 also works very well as you can hold it as long as you need.
 
my '87 hj60 is also a bit of a pig when the temperature goes below 0C. I try to plug it in all of the time, but sometimes it isn't an option. I don't rely on the glow light to go out, but listen for the glow relay to audibly click off. I also put a magnetic heat block on my oil pan. I feel your pain.
Jason
'87 hj60 504,000km
'77 fj45 cummins
 
The simple things to try are:

1. change oil to synthetic
2. cycle glow plugs 2 to 3 times
3. use a diesel fuel additive

but something that works really well are the webesto heaters---I am located in Laramie, WY at 7200 feet and it usually gets down to -40 F for at least one week a year.
 
The simple things to try are:

1. change oil to synthetic
2. cycle glow plugs 2 to 3 times
3. use a diesel fuel additive

but something that works really well are the webesto heaters---I am located in Laramie, WY at 7200 feet and it usually gets down to -40 F for at least one week a year.

What did the webasto heater cost you and from where did you purchase it? Thx
 
The Webasto Heaters are not cheep a few years back I paid around $1400.00 and I installed it. If you go to the Webasto website you can source a local dealer. I do a lot of hunting in places where there is no plug in for a block heater---when it drops below – 10F I prefer that my truck starts—so for me it was well worth the cost.

http://www.webasto.com/home/de/homepage.html
 
Winter starting

I have been wondering about adding a air intake heater. If you could take one from the fancy new engines. The concept sounds good air heats up faster than oil so heat the air not the oil. You could wire it to your manual glow set up so it was a temporary on thing.
 
One tip Dan at 4wheel Auto in Edmonton (it gets cold there) shared with me was to fully depress the fuel pedal when cold starting, just until it catches. I have found that this works like a charm for a quick cold start.
He also set me up with a set of 14.5 volt glows, which on a 12 volt, manual system give a faster, hotter glow.
 
One tip Dan at 4wheel Auto in Edmonton (it gets cold there) shared with me was to fully depress the fuel pedal when cold starting, just until it catches. I have found that this works like a charm for a quick cold start.
He also set me up with a set of 14.5 volt glows, which on a 12 volt, manual system give a faster, hotter glow.

14.5? Don't you mean 10.5? 14.5 when the glowplugs are engaged might not even fully glow hot.......?

10.5 volts is about where the voltage drops to on a 12 volt system when glowing.

I have to use the gas pedal on my Mercedes to get it to catch. You just have to be careful not to rev it once it fires, as the cylinders barely have oil at them initially.,
 
14.5? Don't you mean 10.5? 14.5 when the glowplugs are engaged might not even fully glow hot.......?

10.5 volts is about where the voltage drops to on a 12 volt system when glowing.

I have to use the gas pedal on my Mercedes to get it to catch. You just have to be careful not to rev it once it fires, as the cylinders barely have oil at them initially.,


I was wondering who was going to catch that. :D
But, I mean 14.5.
All the information on this forum and the research that I have done says 10.5. Dan said 14.5 so I decided to give it a shot, he was right.

I was unhappy with the performance of my (new, all working, ND) 10.5 glows. I was chatting with Dan and he told me that the 12v super glow only would glow at the full 12 for about 3 seconds, after which the resistor would step it down to something much lower, not only were the glows not meant to have full volts (running the risk of burning them off) they (for some reason) are not as effective. I was very skeptical, but he promised me that this is what they do with all the manual glow conversions they do, so I bought a set to try. As I said, he was right.
The response time is much better, much faster, much quicker/cleaner starts, and now I don't have that fear in the back of my head of burning off the tips of the glows.
Doesn't seem right, does it? But it does seem to work great.
 
About depressing the the skinny pedal while cranking, if it´s not the giagantic hangover messing with my mind, I think that is the correct procedure to start the engine every time as stated in the manual... :cheers:
 
Pick up an espar.. I have one and LOVE it. No need to plug in anywhere any time.
Yeah, but these things are outrageously expensive.

has the original poster checked his glowplugs?
 
Yeah, but these things are outrageously expensive.

has the original poster checked his glowplugs?

that was what i was wondering. I started my truck the other day at an honest -34C in Cold Lake, and then realized that the other end of my block heater extension cord wasn't actually plugged into the house. I sort of cringed when I realized it, but it was pretty cool that it actually started!!:p That my good friends is a tribute to Toyota engineering. I run duron 0-30 semi-synthetic.
 
Thanks for your feedback on my original post..really useful.
Moved to synthetic oil with some improvement.
Found a Land Cruiser mechanic in the meantime here in St John's who used to work at Toyota in the 80s with some good insight.

Opted for 6 fresh glow plugs - 14.5V (the old ones were definitely not in good shape)
Also two fresh Delco marine deep-cycle batteries that can handle the current draw.
Optimas were not available but seemed like a nice option.
Notice more power already.
-10C overnight tonight and first night without the block heater plugged in so will be a good test for the prognosis in the AM.

With about 500K km, compression may also be an issue slowing the cold-weather starting.
An engine rebuild is likely in the works in the next few years.

Will consider the other cold-start options down the road, before moving further North...
 

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