Diesel Engine's Life? - How long do they run...

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Joined
Oct 13, 2011
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Location
Karachi, Pk
Hi all,,
Just been wondering how long anyone's had a diesel engine before its 1ts overhaul?

Looking into the types of uses & the periodic maintenances, when do they eventually die down (in kms/miles terms).

I'm running a 1KZ-TE (95% on tarmac) at 142,000 kms odo. Change the oil & filter every 3 months (an avg of 1800kms), diesel filter every 8-12 months.
Not eating up any oil nor smoking heavy.

Does anyone think it'll go upto 200,000kms?!

I'm not the 1st owner/driver, but I do know how the previous owner maintained it. The 1st owner was some Japanese who clocked an average of 915 kms/month.

Just curious,
Sam
 
1KZ-FTE Longevity

I think they use them in the mail vans here that cross the Nullabor Desert. (This is the 3 litre common rail TD, right?)
IIRC, They retire them at 700,000 kms. I don't know if they rebuild them in that time but obviously they have pretty good longevity!
 
Unless you beat the tar out of it you should have no problem doubling the mileage on it.
 
Do you have problems with the injectors over there. If you do, it might be a thing to keep an eye on. Here, injectors in the 1KZ or most other 4 cyl diesels in 4X4s like the Nissan Navara have a problem with the o-rings or something like that in the injector. Some people are changing their injectors after about 80,000 Ks at the cost of $3000-$4000!!!
 
Almost any diesel engine will outlast a gas engine many times over if properly maintained.They are much heavier built and are intended for longevity. I have had Toyota B with over 500,000 km on it. a few kabota engines with over 35,000 hrs and an Isuzu with god knows how many miles. Don't sweat it. enjoy the experience and the smell of diesel oil in the morning.
 
Plenty of 1KZ TE in australia with 300000-400000klms + .But you need to keep an eye on the crappy plastic and alloy radiator which can leak at the seams.
The electronics on the fuel pump often play up when they have high mileage and unless you know someone who can reset the electronics ,you can be up for a new one.
You dont need to change the oil every 1800klms . Modern oils can last much longer than that.
 
Some people are changing their injectors after about 80,000 Ks at the cost of $3000-$4000!!!

This is more to do with the 1KD ,2KD and other common rail diesels
 
Early 1KZ's crack heads, somewhere after 2000 they stopped cracking. That's probably your main concern. Otherwise they are a reliable engine.

Oil changes at 1800km are crazy. My work car gets 20,000km oil changes. Your engine should be able to handle 10,000km changes.
 
I change my oil on my beater sidekick every 1500-2000 km cause it's bulk free oil sitting on my bench, if you can why not. Truck with the the 2L will most likely see once a year service at 5000km
 
When I recently sold my 3L Prado it had 230,000Kms and was running perfectly. Although I love the 80 I do kinda miss the Prado.
 
I change my oil on my beater sidekick every 1500-2000 km cause it's bulk free oil sitting on my bench, if you can why not. Truck with the the 2L will most likely see once a year service at 5000km

Even if the oil is free, changing oil that doesn't need changed is not how I like to spend my time.
 
Seems like every b series toyota for sale over here has over 400k on it
 
We all know that finding a car which does not have a reversed odo in Pakitan is nearly impossible.

First of all on an average cars do around 30,000 KMs in a year, so no matter what your odo shows just multiply 30K with the age of the car(number of years)

I have used 5 a number of Toyota Diesel engines two 1Cs, a 2C a 3CT, a 2H, and currently I have a 1HZ in my FJ40, if properly looked after they will easily do half a million KMs.

Regarding the Oil change, as some guys here must not be knowing that driving conditions in Pakistan are the worst you can get, for example I live in Lahore, a city of 10 million population; No I am not kidding, here the temperature variation from winter to summer is 0 degree Celsius to 50 degree Celsius(Recorded under shade in the sun its higher than that) and to top it up trafic jams like no other in the world. Last but not the least the dust factor.
So we can't change oils at 10,000 or 20,000 Kms, but 1800 is a little too low. I change oil of my Petrol car at 5000 km and plan to change the oil of my HZJ40(as this is going to be my first change after the swap from 2F) at 4000 Kms

TC
 
We all know that finding a car which does not have a reversed odo in Pakitan is nearly impossible.

First of all on an average cars do around 30,000 KMs in a year, so no matter what your odo shows just multiply 30K with the age of the car(number of years)

I have used 5 a number of Toyota Diesel engines two 1Cs, a 2C a 3CT, a 2H, and currently I have a 1HZ in my FJ40, if properly looked after they will easily do half a million KMs.

Regarding the Oil change, as some guys here must not be knowing that driving conditions in Pakistan are the worst you can get, for example I live in Lahore, a city of 10 million population; No I am not kidding, here the temperature variation from winter to summer is 0 degree Celsius to 50 degree Celsius(Recorded under shade in the sun its higher than that) and to top it up trafic jams like no other in the world. Last but not the least the dust factor.
So we can't change oils at 10,000 or 20,000 Kms, but 1800 is a little too low. I change oil of my Petrol car at 5000 km and plan to change the oil of my HZJ40(as this is going to be my first change after the swap from 2F) at 4000 Kms

TC

My vehicles only do about 10,000km average each year. Some more, some less depending on which vehicle was needed the most. I have one 20 year old vehicle which has a genuine 160,000km on it. 8,000km per year.

If you want to know about the oil condition, get it tested when you would normally change it. even 5000/4000km is far too early for engines with good filtration. 0-50C isn't that bad for engines.
 
Engine life depends on having clean lubricating oil, clean fuel and clean air. With those and adequate oil pressure engine life is almost limitless. If you're in a dusty area, the best air filter you can get is essential: an oil bath filter. Bypass filtration of the engine oil is also essential IMO. Toyota makes the two stage 90915-30002 filter which is effectively a bypass and a full flow combined, or you could use the Frantz, Motorguard or Puradyn bypass filters. Obviously the toilet paper filters are much more economical, but the Puradyn has an evaporation chamber that claims certain benefits over sealed TP filters. Centrifugal filtration is the ultimate, but you won't find a commercial unit small enough for a 2L, 3L or 1KZ engine AFAIK. Although given a suitable design, I'm sure you could have something made in Pakistan quite easily, considering your labour costs and the skills of some of the workforce. Once installed a centrifugal filter is also the cheapest as it needs no filter media. On a smaller engine such as those mentioned the centrifuge would need to be powered mechanically or electrically as the engine oil pump probably does not have enough flow to both spin the centrifuge and maintain adequate oil pressure. You can look at the Spinner II as an example of a centrifugal filter or Mann-Hummel's line.
 
I'll take paper filters over oil bath air filters every time.

Landrover TD5's have centrifugal oil filters. They can't be the only production diesel with them. But it's only one stage, they still run conventional filters. The Isuzu 4BD1t runs a twin filter setup of full flow and bypass on seperate circuits. They have run factory 16,000km oil changes since 1985.
 
That unit on the LRs is the smallest that Mann-Hummel produce and it has a disposable cartridge that costs about as much as an oil change, or a bit more.

They could have made it so you could just clean it out and put it back together, but for some reason they made it a permanently sealed unit that fills up with carbon and it is then thrown into the landfill.

I wonder why?:hhmm:
 
450k on my 3b

If I purchased this new in 84, I would be a grandfather right now. Thing just keeps on going. Been having some start issue and may be looking at new injectors. BTW, is there a glow plug source for the 3b bj60 out of the states?

Secondly, can a partial rebuild, ie, new rings or new rings, pistons, cylinders extend the engine life? Rings would be cheapest bet.
 
That unit on the LRs is the smallest that Mann-Hummel produce and it has a disposable cartridge that costs about as much as an oil change, or a bit more.

They could have made it so you could just clean it out and put it back together, but for some reason they made it a permanently sealed unit that fills up with carbon and it is then thrown into the landfill.

I wonder why?:hhmm:

Those in the know tell me at 100,000km they aren't even half full. So generally if they aren't changed they'll last the life of an average vehicle. Even changing it once would put you well into the 3rd standard deviation.
 

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