With my LC I got it changed at 53K miles but on my RX400h its never changed. It's at 140K miles now and no signs of wear. It feels lot smoother than LC. It took a lot of time for me to get used to unrefined gear shifts of LC as compared to RX400h. After over 1 year I finally accepted its the character of LC and not to expect same behaviour.
Did you ever have transmission failure because you never changed the ATF? mileage?
- Thread starter LC neophyte
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With Lexus I thought its complicated car and didnt bother to learn any maintenance so even now it goes to dealer. With LC, its easy car to work on and in the UK we dont have many garages to work on them so self maintenance is the best way. I decided this schedule for my LC and I will not go to any dealer or garage.
Engine oil/filter - 5K miles
Fuel filter, cabin filter - 10K/1 yr
Prop shaft greasing - 10K/1yr
Airflow valve on the air filter - 5K miles
Diff, transfer oils, and brake fluid- 30K miles/3 yrs
AHC, Coolant, power steering - 50K or 5 years
Engine oil/filter - 5K miles
Fuel filter, cabin filter - 10K/1 yr
Prop shaft greasing - 10K/1yr
Airflow valve on the air filter - 5K miles
Diff, transfer oils, and brake fluid- 30K miles/3 yrs
AHC, Coolant, power steering - 50K or 5 years
100% I guess our OCD with our cars will need a new thread and will go on forever.
I personally used the tech stream for the temperatures and used the over flow plug.
- Thread starter
- #25
I find that pretty impressive after 200k. Why did you drain and fill again after 5,000 more miles? Was that just to dilute out any leftover fluid that you didn't get in the first drain?
Tried to get or rather mix all I can without doing a full on flush. I was heavily advised not to do a full flush with the miles. Drain/fill would be less evasive. That's all really. Level is perfect. Ill probably won't do it again.
its common sense to change ALL fluids in your Land Cruiser at one point or another , changing them now rather then later is better then not changing them at all ever ..
this common sense approach applies to all Toyota vehicle platforms globally ...
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- does anyone have the solid concrete facts surrounding why TOYOTA made the STUPID decision in my opinion to Delete the ATM Dipstick as a standard fundamental part
of all TOYOTA ATM equipped vehicles since it was first introduced as a build sheet option for CORONA , CROWN , CARINA and the MARK II ..... circa very early 1970's ?
please post anything ever printed or posted online , i have never been able to find 1 peep of 1 word on the topic ever ?
thanks
this common sense approach applies to all Toyota vehicle platforms globally ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- does anyone have the solid concrete facts surrounding why TOYOTA made the STUPID decision in my opinion to Delete the ATM Dipstick as a standard fundamental part
of all TOYOTA ATM equipped vehicles since it was first introduced as a build sheet option for CORONA , CROWN , CARINA and the MARK II ..... circa very early 1970's ?
please post anything ever printed or posted online , i have never been able to find 1 peep of 1 word on the topic ever ?
thanks
I doubt you’ll ever find anything in writing, but pretty sure they deleted it because it’s not necessary.
Because if you don’t see leaking red fluid the level is fine, and with the tools that most toyota mechanics have setting fluid level on a drain/fill is easy.
so .......
how does the original and or current Vehicle Owner Operator then check for a leak via a low fluid level , and or top off in the case of a new Radiator install
or replacement of a ATM to Radiator hard or soft line for example where some minor to moderate fluid will be lost in the process ?
Bring the transmission to the correct temp (somewhere around 100F IIRC), open the overflow port on the transmission, and add fluid to the fill port - when it comes out the overflow it's full. There's a TIS procedure specifically for this.
FWIW I actually think they got rid of the dipstick because then the AT is no longer sealed from dust and moisture intrusion. By sealing it you eliminate contamination of the fluid, assuming everything else stays tight.
Plus, out of the 12-quart capacity those are negligible amounts and realistically don’t need to be replaced. But it is a good opportunity to verify level using the method you describe, and might as well throw a little in if we have it.
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I changed mine 35k miles ago with Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF. The tranny shifted far smoother than before. No issues at all from the change. I've had our rig from highways to 4x4 trails.
I fully changed mine at 78k then did a drain and fill 15k later because I was towing regularly and thought it might be necessary. It wasn’t, it looked brand new, I plan on doing 30k drain and fills from now on.
Fluid is cheap. Transmissions aren’t
Fluid is cheap. Transmissions aren’t
- Thread starter
- #37
At 78K, did you connect to a fluid exchange machine to fully change? What did the fluid look like? Just curious, because you tow frequently. Also, did you do a new fliter?
Have done complete fluid exchanges via the dedicated cooler line on all my Toyota trucks every 100k or so. I’m on #3 flush on the 100, #3 on the 4Runner V8, and #2 on the 14 LX. I only use WS fluid and have never notified a difference before or after the fluid change.
- Thread starter
- #39
So, do you have close to 300K on the clock with the 100 and the 4Runner? Impressive.
I noticed that you domicile in IL and AK? Big road salt states. How are the underbodies holding up?
Yes 300k.
They look new because I care for them. They’re coated annually with fluid/woolwax. I am original owner on all of them.
AK doesnt use salt, uses no ethanol in gasoline and has no income or state sales tax.