ARCHIVE Did someone say they wanted sliders.....

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UnderDawg

Wannabe welder
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Feb 17, 2013
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2x3" main slider, 2x2" slider to frame brackets, will have a step but I have a few questions.

1. Is anyone apposed to a weld to the frame design? Why?
2. Step shape?
3. Step or no step?
4. length of main slider? I'm thinking 72"ish



Open to suggestions. Lets hear your thoughts.
 
got a picture from the top? Wife is always saying i should get "steps" ;) to help her get in and out. I was wanting the ones from BIOR but i have a 94 and the cats are an issue i guess. :cheers:
 
It would be cool if they wrap around (up around) the body to the bottom of the door sill to cover body damage for folks that like to learn the hard way.
 
Regarding the wrap around (and I like a reach around as much as the next guy, but...) I think the current rectangular shape is better. It looks cleaner and I'm guessing will be lighter, simpler and cheaper. Most other sliders I have seen are tube, and wrap to some extent. Yours is a different design, so you have an inherent advantage against competitors in that your product is distinct. And I think it looks better.
 
Some of my Booger welds... pun intended.



Looks like I could use little more heat. I'm gonna putting 2 passes on most everything.
 
For potential resale value keep stock running boards and bolt on. If your for cereal about trails and overall effectiveness then welding to the frame is a win.
 
For potential resale value keep stock running boards and bolt on. If your for cereal about trails and overall effectiveness then welding to the frame is a win.

I am for cereal, but find it cumbersome on the trail. I am always spilling milk in my lap and making a mess of it.
 
Nice design.... subscribed
 
Some of my Booger welds... pun intended.



Looks like I could use little more heat. I'm gonna putting 2 passes on most everything.
Need a little more heat and slow down your travel speed. You should have a flatter feet and more rounded beads.
But not bad. Oh, clean the mil scale off the metal, will have less porosity.

Do I see a hobart? Is it the MVP? When will we get to see this thing up close, undercarriage, you are welding it on, right?
 
Need a little more heat and slow down your travel speed. You should have a flatter feet and more rounded beads.
But not bad. Oh, clean the mil scale off the metal, will have less porosity.

Do I see a hobart? Is it the MVP? When will we get to see this thing up close, undercarriage, you are welding it on, right?

Thats 2 passes and I welded it with my Lincoln Sp-170t. The coloration from the heat of the weld is not showing how far I ground up the tube, I also bevel before I weld.
The Hobart is my little machine its a 140, great little box.
 
Turn it up to 11...

So are you bending like a 1 3/4 step tube deal to weld to the outside?

I can't decide if I want a 2x2 with 1 3/4 tube or just 2x3 and miter cut the ends, when I make mine. I'll have to borrow a tube bender for the 1st. Or there's always the 2x3 with tube. And kick out tube or just come out --- flat --- and back in.
 
I'd do the 2x3" with an outer tube step/rub rail. I think if your a wheeler and arent scared to use your truck the 2x3" would hold up better. Thats why I decided to make em of it. Sure they'll be a little heavier but their gonna take the hits. Just my thoughts.
 
Hmmmm.. are you thinking of dropping the outer tube/rub rail down at an angle..... offer a "lower" stepping point?
 
Side steps (F&R) idea that doubled as hi-lift pocket from my old 80 and they were weld on with zero deflection.


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