Did I break my center diff?

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midfat

midfat

10 Year
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
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87
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1,154
Location
Santa Monica, CA
Okay, IH8 where they put the center diff button on my 2004 100. Jumped in the car last week and accidentally hit the diff lock switch with my knee. Pulled the car out of a parking space, at full lock, and heard all kinds of popping and chirping. Drove a total of maybe 30ft. Said a few unladylike words, then opened the CDL back up. Light took minute to go back off, and now I hear random clanking/pinging coming from the drivetrain. the center diff still seems to cycle as it did before, with the light working normally. But the sounds have me very nervous. Anyone else experience this issue?
 
Yeah, you shouldn't have any ongoing clanking or pinging. You could have overloaded and broken something other than the center diff, likely suspects would be the front diff or a CV perhaps.

Simple check would be to lift up the front end and disconnect the front drive line allowing you to 'feel' the front end components independent of the rest of the drive-train.
 
I've accidentally hit this button many times myself but nothing has every broken. In fact, to the best of my knowledge you can actually run with CDL locked all the time but it isn't the best for your tires or mileage (please correct if I am wrong). Probably some other weak link. I'm interested in what you find out.
 
I highly doubt you broke the center diff. I would bet you damages the drive flange. The drivetrain does bind, but unless you cranked the wheel full lock and floored it in circles, I think you will be fine. Pull the t case drain plug and see what comes out.

Teeth = $$$
 
2000UZJ said:
I highly doubt you broke the center diff. I would bet you damages the drive flange. The drivetrain does bind, but unless you cranked the wheel full lock and floored it in circles, I think you will be fine. Pull the t case drain plug and see what comes out.

Teeth = $$$
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I'm due for an oil change, so I'll pull the t-case drain plug as well and see what I find. Do me a favor and elaborate a bit on the "drive flange?" This is my first Hundy and I'm still learning my way around it.

Thanks!
 
stonepa said:
I've accidentally hit this button many times myself but nothing has every broken. In fact, to the best of my knowledge you can actually run with CDL locked all the time but it isn't the best for your tires or mileage (please correct if I am wrong). Probably some other weak link. I'm interested in what you find out.
Click to expand...

Running locked with good traction is hell on all the drive-train parts. It will accelerate wear and could cause failure of a weak component.
 
midfat said:
I'm due for an oil change, so I'll pull the t-case drain plug as well and see what I find. Do me a favor and elaborate a bit on the "drive flange?" This is my first Hundy and I'm still learning my way around it. Thanks!
Click to expand...
If you remove your wheel caps on the front you will see 6 10mm bolts. There is a dust cap that sits over the end of the CV axle. Take a flat head and remove that. You will see splines (end of CV). There should also be a C-Clip there to secure the CV into the hub. That flange has splines inside that mesh with the CV and apply power to turn the wheels. The metal is softer than the CV shaft spines, so they tend to strip before the CV. The MUD community has seen a increase in drive flange failures over the past year.
 
that button is indeed in a bad spot for us long-legged types.
 
2000UZJ said:
If you remove your wheel caps on the front you will see 6 10mm bolts. There is a dust cap that sits over the end of the CV axle. Take a flat head and remove that. You will see splines (end of CV). There should also be a C-Clip there to secure the CV into the hub. That flange has splines inside that mesh with the CV and apply power to turn the wheels. The metal is softer than the CV shaft spines, so they tend to strip before the CV. The MUD community has seen a increase in drive flange failures over the past year.
Click to expand...

Excellent description. Got it! I will most certainly check this out. Thank you.
 
oftpiste said:
that button is indeed in a bad spot for us long-legged types.
Click to expand...

Okay, so this begs the question... What's the alternative? Anybody move this button to another location? Better yet, anybody retrofit the older twist style switch from the 80 and/or early 100 series? The blank behind the steering wheel, lower left panel, is still there. That would be a stupendously better solution.
 
Fwiw the 80 and early center-diff buttons are all push style as well, the only twist style is the actual axle diff lockers. One could retrofit one of those switches into place but I think the easier option would be a 'lockout' switch that has to be engaged to allow the CDL to activate. I've not had issues pushing mine (6'1") so it is hardly a concern of mine but I suppose it could be an issue for some big knee'ed folks :D
 
Help. Bumped the button with my knee and can't turn it off now. Can hear the electronics in the dash but the indicator light stay on. 60 miles from home. What to do?
 
paflytyer said:
Try stopping, putting it in reverse for 10 feet or so, then pull forward.
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thanks pArty. That worked. Do I need to get this looked at? Why does it do this.
 
Can you please explain what you mean ^^^^?

@paflytyer, thanks so much for the quick answer. I had a carload of kids coming home from the mountains, some not mine and was in a bit of a panic. You saved the day. Beers on me if I get there or you get here.

I don't think the automotive gods were pleased with me today. First that, then suddenly my GROM bluetooth refused to discover my phone, and then I took a big rock in the windshield which left a nice chip. Crack soon to follow no doubt.

Thanks again man!
 
The actuator is a pin that interlocks, or meshes with the gears. When you push the button the actuator will wait until it sees proper alignment with the hole, so it can lock the differential. This splits the power evenly between the front and rear axle. When it's locked, they can't turn at different speeds. That is why you get the tire chirp, or binding feel. When you unlock the center diff it's the same cycle as when you lock it. It waits until it senses the gears are aligned and there is no stress bound up in the drivetrain. It only unlocks when it can be done smoothly with no shocks, or violent unloading of tension.

I hope that helps!
 
Sounds like something may have busted inside the transfer case. Driving the 100 with the center diff locked is equivalent to driving a part time 4wd vehicle on hard pavement.

Here's a good explanation:
http://rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/driveline-bind.html
 
oftpiste said:
Can you please explain what you mean ^^^^?

@paflytyer, thanks so much for the quick answer. I had a carload of kids coming home from the mountains, some not mine and was in a bit of a panic. You saved the day. Beers on me if I get there or you get here.

I don't think the automotive gods were pleased with me today. First that, then suddenly my GROM bluetooth refused to discover my phone, and then I took a big rock in the windshield which left a nice chip. Crack soon to follow no doubt.

Thanks again man!
Click to expand...

I'm on my phone so I can't see where you are, but the actuator motor can have moisture in it and freeze or seize up from rust. We're well below zero here in Colorado right now and that kind of cold can do funny things.

When you get home, try engaging and disengaging a few times. It's a good idea to do that every so often anyway to help things move freely.
 
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