Did an AHC flush, and this happened.... (1 Viewer)

[arbetrader]

So here's a new one - I just did an AHC Flush today; the front is bouncy - I think the globes are shot. I checked the graduations, only about 6 or so. Meaning globes need replacement. But had the fluid so I tried to flush anyway to see if it would help in the time being. Here's what happened:

I emptied out the main reservoir, but only got the accumulator and ONE rear globe bled. The reason for this is that the other globes drain nipples would not open properly - I used the same 10mm wrench on all of them, for some reason the 10mm nuts were soft (probably due to a bit of corrosion in those areas), and wouldn't open properly, they started stripping upon trying to crack them open. The frame and majority of the underbody has very little rust, it's in quite good shape given the year - but the ahc components are not in such good shape. It's probably about 21yrs old (2000 model). Also, the front shocks are totally shot, they look quite corroded. The system raises/lowers very quickly, but makes large adjustments, and quite often, and drives bouncy in the front. Rear feels soft and composed like my old LX. Front feels different (worse).

I think I'm going to switch to a standard (non ahc) suspension.

I have a few questions. Maybe I should post a new thread on this? Not sure. Here goes:

1. Front: I will need sturdy TB's for the front; heavier duty than factory US landcruiser setup, due to added weight of the diesel upfront (it's 200+lbs heavier than 2UZ engine). I'm not planning on a heavy duty front bumper (at least anytime soon), so where would I source the best deal on a bit heavier duty TB's? OR should I go factory toyota setup for HDJ100-FTE? I could probably source that out of Europe/Aus or anywhere else - OR perhaps OME/ARB be suitable for this...

2. Rear suspension: I want to keep a fairly composed ride, but I found my old LX470 factory suspension too soft (in general). If I want a setup to ride like the LX in sport mode, what should I do? I figure I could go to any competent aftermarket company for this. Perhaps a bit heavier spring rate might help, provided it's not a ton stiffer. Even if I go stock toyota, and add spacers that might work too.

NOTE: I don't mind having 1.5-2" lift, but don't really want more. Not sure if I'll need a diff drop kit for that.

Cost/quality ratio is important. I'm looking for best price/performance here. I'm not doing any rock crawling at this point, and I WILL take it offroad, but not through majorly harsh stuff... Mostly FSR's and the odd medium trail, but that's it. I do not want cheap ebay parts either (naturally). Something reputable, but reasonable.

For reference, I had a Bilstein 5100 suspension/shocks on my air-ride equipped toyota sequoia previously, and LOVED The way it drove - but I don't see a bilstein option for mine, notwithstanding the extra weight of the diesel engine up front.

QUESTION: What do you all think about this, and if you could make any recommendations?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Cost/quality ratio is important. I'm looking for best price/performance here.

QUESTION: What do you all think about this, and if you could make any recommendations?

That statement to me screams, "Keep your AHC".

A set of globes and two shocks is less expensive than a proper aftermarket setup. Not sure how pricing works in your area, but in the US Impex is a Japanese exporter that has final pricing for a set around $700 USD. Front shocks are around $250-$350 each, shipped. Unless you have a lot of rust all over, chances are slim that you'll need much else.

Also, corrosion on the shocks isn't a death sentence. Replacing those as preventative maintenance is fine, but unless they're leaking fluid they might be fine for years to come.

I would not jump to conversion based on your use case. Pictures might help us better advise on the corrosion side of things.

 

[arbetrader]

Yeah, I know I loved the ride so much, of my old AHC system on my previous 99LX, it was working fantastic. I agree... I'm so torn on this. You're probably right.

Question. What's the part# for the control valve that the globes screw onto? Ideally I'd need those too. Hopefully they're not as expensive as the globes themselves?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Yeah, I know I loved the ride so much, of my old AHC system on my previous 99LX, it was working fantastic. I agree... I'm so torn on this. You're probably right.

Question. What's the part# for the control valve that the globes screw onto? Ideally I'd need those too. Hopefully they're not as expensive as the globes themselves?

I think you're referring to the actuators. I don't think I've ever seen a case where the actuators failed. They are generally life-time parts. Do you have a reason to suspect failure of those?

 

[arbetrader]

I think you're referring to the actuators. I don't think I've ever seen a case where the actuators failed. They are generally life-time parts. Do you have a reason to suspect failure of those?

Yes, I don't think they've failed, but the bleed screws stripped on 3 of them. Not sure why - perhaps they seized... At any rate I've ordered 4 new bleed screws (the main accumulater screw is fine, along with one globe screw). I'm going to try getting new globes to start, and try to extract the existing bleed screws that have failed, and replace with new.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Yes, I don't think they've failed, but the bleed screws stripped on 3 of them. Not sure why - perhaps they seized... At any rate I've ordered 4 new bleed screws (the main accumulater screw is fine, along with one globe screw). I'm going to try getting new globes to start, and try to extract the existing bleed screws that have failed, and replace with new.

Ah, understood. Buying all new actuators is probably more $$ than it would be worth. I would remove the actuators from the car and extract the stripped bleeders on a bench. Depends on corrosion levels, though. And I suppose depends on your comfort level on clever fastener removal (IE strong vice grips, drills, taps, extractors, etc...).

 

[arbetrader]

Ah, understood. Buying all new actuators is probably more $$ than it would be worth. I would remove the actuators from the car and extract the stripped bleeders on a bench. Depends on corrosion levels, though. And I suppose depends on your comfort level on clever fastener removal (IE strong vice grips, drills, taps, extractors, etc...).

Yes, once I get my new globes I will do that. Are there any aftermarket companies that make good quality globes? I usually like only going factory, however sometimes you can find quality stuff elsewhere so thought I'd ask.

 

[arbetrader]

Ok I think I changed my mind. I'm worried that the rest of the components are too rusty - the frame is pretty mint, but the accessory lines etc (AHC etc) are quite corroded. I think the system may fail in other areas so I'm heavily considering just converting to standard suspension for the time being.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Ok I think I changed my mind. I'm worried that the rest of the components are too rusty - the frame is pretty mint, but the accessory lines etc (AHC etc) are quite corroded. I think the system may fail in other areas so I'm heavily considering just converting to standard suspension for the time being.

Pervasive rust is a good reason to ditch AHC.

 

[blinder52]

I love my AHC system and it works well. My car’s problem is that the lines are so rusty and changing them seems a real PITA. Seems so odd they alone corrode so.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I love my AHC system and it works well. My car’s problem is that the lines are so rusty and changing them seems a real PITA. Seems so odd they alone corrode so.

View attachment 2559296

That is odd. I wonder if the AHC lines are a different alloy that the other brake/fuel lines. That said, plenty of folks have brake lines corrode and fail as well. Rust... ugh. Such a pain.

 

[kgrove]

That statement to me screams, "Keep your AHC".

A set of globes and two shocks is less expensive than a proper aftermarket setup. Not sure how pricing works in your area, but in the US Impex is a Japanese exporter that has final pricing for a set around $700 USD. Front shocks are around $250-$350 each, shipped. Unless you have a lot of rust all over, chances are slim that you'll need much else.

Are you sure about the conclusion? If my memory serves me right, a typical lift kit (OME, Tough Dog, Iron Man, etc - 4 shocks, 2 rear springs, 2 front TBs, and sway bar links and a diff drop as needed) would come in at around $1200-1500 depending on what you chose. If fixing this AHC system was $700 for a new set of globes and $500 for a pair of the front shocks / hydraulic rams, you'd be in the same cost range to fix the AHC system (or at least some of it) vs remove the AHC and go to a standard suspension with the possibility it's also lifted. I would think the need or desire to replace those hydraulic rams would immediately make it much more of a tossup between fixing vs deleting the AHC system if cost were the primary driver. Maybe you're assuming the "proper aftermarket setup" is more advanced than some of the basic lift kits?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Are you sure about the conclusion? If my memory serves me right, a typical lift kit (OME, Tough Dog, Iron Man, etc - 4 shocks, 2 rear springs, 2 front TBs, and sway bar links and a diff drop as needed) would come in at around $1200-1500 depending on what you chose. If fixing this AHC system was $700 for a new set of globes and $500 for a pair of the front shocks / hydraulic rams, you'd be in the same cost range to fix the AHC system (or at least some of it) vs remove the AHC and go to a standard suspension with the possibility it's also lifted. I would think the need or desire to replace those hydraulic rams would immediately make it much more of a tossup between fixing vs deleting the AHC system if cost were the primary driver. Maybe you're assuming the "proper aftermarket setup" is more advanced than some of the basic lift kits?

By proper, I'm just meaning a setup that is as reliable as factory and allows you to align the vehicle.

If you're lifting 2" or more, I think adjustable UCAs are a requirement (not being able to keep alignment in spec is unacceptable, IMO), so add another $700-900 and an alignment for $100 or so to your number.

Proper Conventional 2+" Lift: $2,000 minimum. $3,000 for the "good" stuff with remote reservoirs (Slee, Icon or others).

Possible AHC fix scenarios:
AHC Fix Scenario #1: $850. New globes $750; 3 liters retail priced AHC fluid: $100.
AHC Fix Scenario #2: $1,450. New Globes, 3 liters fluid, 2 new shocks or 2 new lines.
AHC Fix Scenario #3: $2,500. New globes, 6 liters fluid, new pump, 2 new shocks, 2 new lines.


Option 3 is pretty rare and is where the switch might make sense to me. That many failed parts is generally only goign to happen due to rust. The AHC repair costs estimates of yesteryear are probably 2-4x what I mention above and unfortunately are most of what newbies see when they search old threads for AHC help. Hence the occasional "I just bought my LX and I'm hearing that my first task is to install a complete lift kit and throw the AHC system in the garbage because every little failure costs $2k". The introduction of wholesale and import pricing on these parts has cut the price on this stuff by 50+%. The community has also greatly expanded it's collective knowledge on aging AHC. These two factors have completely changed the decision process, IMO.

 

[kgrove]

By proper, I'm just meaning a setup that is as reliable as factory and allows you to align the vehicle.

If you're lifting 2" or more, I think adjustable UCAs are a requirement (not being able to keep alignment in spec is unacceptable, IMO), so add another $700-900 and an alignment for $100 or so to your number.

Proper Conventional 2+" Lift: $2,000 minimum. $3,000 for the "good" stuff with remote reservoirs (Slee, Icon or others).

Possible AHC fix scenarios:
AHC Fix Scenario #1: $850. New globes $750; 3 liters retail priced AHC fluid: $100.
AHC Fix Scenario #2: $1,450. New Globes, 3 liters fluid, 2 new shocks or 2 new lines.
AHC Fix Scenario #3: $2,500. New globes, 6 liters fluid, new pump, 2 new shocks, 2 new lines.


Option 3 is pretty rare and is where the switch might make sense to me. That many failed parts is generally only goign to happen due to rust. The AHC repair costs estimates of yesteryear are probably 2-4x what I mention above and unfortunately are most of what newbies see when they search old threads for AHC help. Hence the occasional "I just bought my LX and I'm hearing that my first task is to install a complete lift kit and throw the AHC system in the garbage because every little failure costs $2k". The introduction of wholesale and import pricing on these parts has cut the price on this stuff by 50+%. The community has also greatly expanded it's collective knowledge on aging AHC. These two factors have completely changed the decision process, IMO.

Aren't you comparing a high lift AHC replacement with an AHC fix which leaves the car at stock height? If you're not trying to lift the car at the same time as replacing the AHC, you would not need to drop the differential or add new UCAs, so the cost of the conventional suspension would be closer to $1300 - more than just replacing the globes, but less than if you also needed to replace any lines or AHC shocks (rams). You could probably cut the cost of conventional suspension as I believe the OEM shocks are in the ballpark of $50 ea. where the $1300 I threw out there was for a 1.5" lift kit with foam shocks (brand doesn't matter as Tough Dog, Iron Man, and OME all seemed to price on top of each other for similar sounding systems)

 

[suprarx7nut]

Aren't you comparing a high lift AHC replacement with an AHC fix which leaves the car at stock height? If you're not trying to lift the car at the same time as replacing the AHC, you would not need to drop the differential or add new UCAs, so the cost of the conventional suspension would be closer to $1300 - more than just replacing the globes, but less than if you also needed to replace any lines or AHC shocks (rams). You could probably cut the cost of conventional suspension as I believe the OEM shocks are in the ballpark of $50 ea. where the $1300 I threw out there was for a 1.5" lift kit with foam shocks (brand doesn't matter as Tough Dog, Iron Man, and OME all seemed to price on top of each other for similar sounding systems)

Yes, I agree completely. I was comparing the cost of a lift which provides similar lift to stock AHC in high. Most the kits are 2.5" lift so i think that's the closest like for like comparison for the population on the forums.

You could definitely do a small lift or go strictly OEM LC conventional suspension and drop that cost by eliminating the UCAs and diff drop. The population of 100 series owners interested in ditching seems to be overwhelmingly interested in a 2" lift so that's the appropriate comparison, IMO.

If you could find an LC owner that was ditching their suspension for a lift kit, you could possibly make the switch for very little $$, pending what they charge for the used equipment. It's a wide range for sure. But again, I think most folks ditching AHC seem to be doing so in favor of a 2+" lift.