Did A Complete Coolant Flush, Any Refill Recommendations?

[jomichael]

100%

I learned that there is a block drain and the correct torque specs, so at least I learned something. Though I do agree that there tends to be a lot of controversy around the coolant fluid.

 

[40mania]

Not a pro here, but with engine off, I fill slowly through upper rad hose until it stops taking any fluid, fill rad & reservoir, then run for a while, looking at scangauge to monitor true temp. I let it run for a while after reaching operating temp to make sure t-stat is open and fluid is moving, with heat on, occasionally briefly holding slightly higher rpm... takes a bit to really burp everything you can. I continually squeeze both upper & lower rad hoses to help purge. Once it seems like you can’t get any more into the rad, you can close it up and go on your way, but keep an eye on rad (when cool), reservoir & temp the next few drives and top off as needed. I usually don’t have to add much more. Never had symptoms of air in system when doing it this way.

I’ve seen people (non specific to 80s or Toyota) who stop burping when their dash gauge hits the middle, but that doesn’t mean you’ve actually reached operating temp & opened the t-stat, hence going by scangauge instead. In my case, my dash gauge hits its resting point at about 155-160, so you’re not quite there yet. It’s pretty much a dummy gauge.

If you’re changing colors from green to red or vice versa, it’s important to do thorough flushes to make sure all the old stuff is out first. This would include utilizing block drains

From my readings here, general consensus outside of diehard OEM-ers who swear by red seems to be that traditional is fine as long as there’s no mixing.

Actually green is less damaging to your entire system as the red is very much more corrosive to your system. I went to green 3 years ago and suffered no problems as a result. Also it got to a point from time to time where the red was out of stock. Since you can't mix the two, what will you do if you spring a leak and no red nearby? Without the flushing process you are looking at real damages by mixing them. I vote green!

 

[robnicko]

I learned that there is a block drain and the correct torque specs, so at least I learned something. Though I do agree that there tends to be a lot of controversy around the coolant fluid.

what I have always done is as follows (1fzfe) with a stone cold engine,

Have heater controls set to hot
remove drain bolt on side of block
remove drain tap / plug on radiator or bottom hose
remove overflow bottle and empty / flush
allow all coolant to drain (into a container of some sorts)
run garden hose through motor & radiator until completely clean clear water is coming out (i also close the block drain with my finger to allow it to build a little pressure in the head and then release so it drains) I also unplug one of the heater hoses to flush it out

I then use 5lt of toyota red concentrate and distilled water to refill which gives just under a 50/50 mix, probably 40/60 or so.
once filled up to neck of radiator & full mark of overflow as mentioned by Johnheld & take car for a 15 min drive (with heater controls to hot - jno need for the fan to run) and recheck after its cooled down or in the morning.. if any top up needed it should only be in the overflow otherwise theres a leak if the radiator needs to be topped up.

been doing this since I bought the cruiser back in 95 (never trusted the stealership after the first few services)
this is every couple of years and now that reminds me that its about due soon....

 

[FMC80]

Actually green is less damaging to your entire system as the red is very much more corrosive to your system. I went to green 3 years ago and suffered no problems as a result. Also it got to a point from time to time where the red was out of stock. Since you can't mix the two, what will you do if you spring a leak and no red nearby? Without the flushing process you are looking at real damages by mixing them. I vote green!

Is this a joke? Do you spread bull**** everywhere or just this forum? Where’s the data? You’re spreading false information and wasting other’s time.

 

[40mania]

Actually green is less damaging to your entire system as the red is very much more corrosive to your system. I went to green 3 years ago and suffered no problems as a result. Also it got to a point from time to time where the red was out of stock. Since you can't mix the two, what will you do if you spring a leak and no red nearby? Without the flushing process you are looking at real damages by mixing them. I vote green!

Can't please everyone, eh?

 

[Feldrian]

Going to agree with @FMC80 - I've never seen objective data that red coolant is more corrosive or damages a cooling system. I agree that it's harder to find and you can't mix with green, so that can be a valid argument for using the green stuff for simplicity sake.

 

[jonheld]

Well, let's see now. I've used Toyota red since 1991 on my brand new FJ80. The radiator and water pump lasted 22 years and have been changed only once. It is still running strong.
My LX450 has had red coolant for the last 24 years. The radiator lasted 20 years and the water pump lasted 21 years.

I don't know where you got your data from, but I'm pretty happy with the red stuff.

 

[40mania]

Going to agree with @FMC80 - I've never seen objective data that red coolant is more corrosive or damages a cooling system. I agree that it's harder to find and you can't mix with green, so that can be a valid argument for using the green stuff for simplicity sake.

I haven't seen data either way myself. Just took the word of a guy I trust. May be a wives tale? May be true? Probably shoulda left that part out.

 

[40mania]

Is this a joke? Do you spread bulls*** everywhere or just this forum? Where’s the data? You’re spreading false information and wasting other’s time.

Since you have the data please post it for us. Many of us would like to see it. Thanks for posting or pick a scrap elsewhere. I gave what I understood to be factual from a dealership mechanic. If you have data, my apologies... if you don't just shut up. See, I CAN be a jerk too! Show us your data that PROVES my statement is false!

Oh, yeah... .Merry Christmas... if you can find "Merry". Says here the (red) eats away at head gaskets... does that sound more corrosive or am I failing to understand my language?

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[40mania]

Going to agree with @FMC80 - I've never seen objective data that red coolant is more corrosive or damages a cooling system. I agree that it's harder to find and you can't mix with green, so that can be a valid argument for using the green stuff for simplicity sake.

Is this a joke? Do you spread bulls*** everywhere or just this forum? Where’s the data? You’re spreading false information and wasting other’s time.

It appears you are spreading bull*** in this forum! You stand corrected in spite of your "hypothetical beliefs". I accept the apology from you that you are obviously not going to post.

 

[40mania]

I was ONLY trying to help. No need to get ugly. My apologies. Both ma ufacturers (GM/TOYOTA) show it to be more corrosive (damaging) to parts.

 

[FMC80]

I haven't seen data either way myself. Just took the word of a guy I trust. May be a wives tale? May be true? Probably shoulda left that part out.

Since you have the data please post it for us. Many of us would like to see it. Thanks for posting or pick a scrap elsewhere. I gave what I understood to be factual from a dealership mechanic. If you have data, my apologies... if you don't just shut up. See, I CAN be a jerk too! Show us your data that PROVES my statement is false!

Oh, yeah... .Merry Christmas... if you can find "Merry". Says here the (red) eats away at head gaskets... does that sound more corrosive or am I failing to understand my language?

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It appears you are spreading bull*** in this forum! You stand corrected in spite of your "hypothetical beliefs". I accept the apology from you that you are obviously not going to post.

I was ONLY trying to help. No need to get ugly. My apologies. Both ma ufacturers (GM/TOYOTA) show it to be more corrosive (damaging) to parts.
View attachment 2872409View attachment 2872410

You want me to provide data to prove you wrong? You must be a woke millennial. You’re doing this wrong. Have a Merry Christmas.

 

[40mania]

You want me to provide data to prove you wrong? You must be a woke millennial. You’re doing this wrong. Have a Merry Christmas.

Thought that was your idea. You launched the probe. I posted Toyota and Gm "data" to support my position. It seems only natural you would post data to reflect the other scientific view? And I can't even spell Wk, Woe, Oke... well I sure ain't that! I'm a noobie not a stoogie. I had done my homework years before I spoke here. I just figure you can post yours. Remember that you launched the probe kinda "poopie".

 

[lp2k]

In before the OMG YOU HAVE TO USE THE RED STUFF comments.

Yep- I am running red and yes, I have a decent supply around me (home and dealers close by) and carry some extra (well when the 80 is moving...) i'm not going to argue with engineers who designed and built this thing. I did a whole rebuild with every single hose replaced from PHH , PHH2 to all of the firewall hoses and descaled all of the rust out with thermocure and I sit at 176 degrees in florida humid 90 sitting in traffic. (new fan clutch, water pump, t-stat) original brass 3 core rad.

 

[SpenserAK]

I don’t care to partake in “arguing” about it, but dexcool is the orange coolant people are told to stay away from in our application. Toyota red and equivalents are a different product.

 

[Feldrian]

I don’t care to partake in “arguing” about it, but isn’t dexcool the orange coolant people are told to stay away from in our application? Assuming that is the case, Toyota red and equivalents are a different coolant.

I agree. I thought they were different too, but I'm not a scientist.

I run Toyota red and i don't even have a Toyota engine.

 

[FMC80]

They are different. There are many threads outlining the differences of each coolant type. One of the better arguments is to use the coolant that was available during the time your vehicle was manufactured. Toyota red checks that box. Can you run green? Yep. Will it destroy your engine? Probably not.

I’m not a scientist either so without empirical data, I avoid definitive statements that I can’t prove. I’m against posting info that could potentially steer many people in the wrong direction. There’s enough bull**** out there already, I don’t want to add to it.

 

[SpenserAK]

So, can we punch it in that he was referring to a different product all along? Mistakes happen, just curious

 

[FMC80]

So, can we punch it in that he was referring to a different product all along? Mistakes happen, just curious

Agreed. Merry Christmas!

 

[Comet]

Wait, somewhere in here was the OMG RED IS THE ONLY SOLUTION. Ha Ha.

60/40 with red since 2001. Leaks/loss I use distilled water Until I can get back to the home base.

You guys and your crazy notions. green sucks!!!! I fart in your general direction.