Detroit EZ locker help

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Jul 27, 2008
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The beet lab.
this is not hardcore, but I need hardcore help as I have exhausted the 60 section.

I bought a new/used EZ Locker off Craigslist(under the impression it was a Lockright as it was in a Lockright box)

1990 FJ62, 188k: Installed it, resealed and oiled pumpkin, put it gear and the d-shaft just spun and ratcheted, not moving the vehicle. vid taken after removal of dif cover, neutral then "drive" after second 7...


space between drivers is 3mm, under the Lockright tolerance of 3.6mm, the locker looked brand new but I'm thinking it might just be worn out. it is assmebled per manuf. specs, including thrust washers, c-clips etc.

you guys have any ideas of the cause? if I can't get it rectified, I'm contemplating welding it up and creating a spool, saving my spiders in case I ever want to restore it to open.

here's my original thread with more pics and advice.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/506417-lockrite-aussie-locker-install-issue-help.html

thanks!
 
Were there any wear on the cogs? Like are they rounded off?
 
I got a EZ lockers .. worse by far .. lunch box locker of my life .. when mine did that .. was shot.. I replace springs but the damage was done at the clutch tooth ..
 
what about the cross shaft? is it worn? have you performed the standard test(hold one wheel forward while turning the other wheel the backwards...with the truck in park?) it should ratchet and then the other way... it sounds to me there is way too much play. you say the teeth on the coupler and driver look ok and are NOT rounded off? when the cross pin rotates forward it forces the coupler outward and SHOULD the coupler to lock to the driver which turns the axle... Where are you taking the meas of 3 mils.?
 
As long as it is installed correctly...

there isn't a lot of things that could be wrong.

Do the teeth look good, with healthy edges on them?

Before you weld it up I would consider new a springs and pins kit.

Have you contacted Detroit/Eaton?

I had an EZ locker for years waaaay back in the day. It worked fine.
 
Had one once myself. It would pop and slam and not really work. I was missing one, only one, of the pads that are inserted into each of the springs. I agree, check into that first, weld it if you want, but I think spools are better.
 
If the springs and pins are good, the teeth aren't too worn, and there isn't too much play, it should work. I know that helps you a lot.
 
Dave West did it in the 60 section as well.

Haven't figured out why yet..
 
ok... so I dont always read the date....
 
whats a thread date?






:flipoff2:
 

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