Desperate for a 80 series experienced mechanic in Metro Detroit and willing to drive, anyone have any leads? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 11, 2005
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122
Messages
997
Location
SE Michigan
Hi guys hope you're well, I actually had my truck up for sale but I took it down because a problem I thought I had resolved months ago reared it's ugly head again:




This is beyond my pay grade and I would really prefer to get her to someone experienced instead of just throwing darts at the wall as I've been doing. I also have a few other things I would want addressed.

I really doubt I'll find anyone local but I'm willing to drive if that's what it takes. Can anyone refer me to someone?

Thank you sincerely
 
Hope you find one; this is a big reason I decided against an 80 myself. I'm a novice mechanic and I extremely rarely see 80s in my area so therefore I doubt many people around here know how to work on them. If I were to buy one and get stuck trying to fix something, not having someone in the area to take it to would be frustrating.
 
The 80 really doesn't need a special mechanic 99.9% of the time because they don't break. Definitely not a special mechanic. The only things I have ever seen take an 80 down are heater hoses neglected and burst, and leaks from the sunroof drain getting the plugs under the drivers kick panel wet. Both easily preventable things.

@Francis K , that .1% item sounds like a damaged wire harness around the back of the engine from that stupid US spec egr garbage getting the harness too hot there and causing damage that isn't readily noticeable. Total guess without reading your thread.
 
The 80 really doesn't need a special mechanic 99.9% of the time because they don't break. Definitely not a special mechanic. The only things I have ever seen take an 80 down are heater hoses neglected and burst, and leaks from the sunroof drain getting the plugs under the drivers kick panel wet. Both easily preventable things.

@Francis K , that .1% item sounds like a damaged wire harness around the back of the engine from that stupid US spec egr garbage getting the harness too hot there and causing damage that isn't readily noticeable. Total guess without reading your thread.


You're right the truck is an absolute tank and runs like butter, it's this one damn issue I can't get sorted no matter what I have tried, or had shops try.

I blocked off the EGR when it first started doing it thinking that was the issue. So just inspect around the Egr at the firewall looking for anything melted you think?
 
You're right the truck is an absolute tank and runs like butter, it's this one damn issue I can't get sorted no matter what I have tried, or had shops try.

I blocked off the EGR when it first started doing it thinking that was the issue. So just inspect around the Egr at the firewall looking for anything melted you think?
Yes, the engine harness runs tight around there and a few people have found the wiring burned under the covering that hides them. Might be a longshot but not terribly hard to look for. I think it usually results in a misfire but who knows.
 
This caused my IAC to idle down but never idle up.
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It took a long time to figure it out, but eventually, I figured that one of the wires must be shorted out or burnt by testing continuity between the iac and the ecu. Then unwrapped the bugger to find this. Easy fix, hard diagnosis.
 
@Danger Cruiser @dogfishlake

Thanks guys, I haven't had any free time to save my life I finally puller her in today. Mind you I'm barely a half banana mechanic but the wiring harness looks pretty clean to me....what do you guys think?

Of course she's been running perfect ever since this popped up again for that day....

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You're taking pictures of the wrong side of the engine. 1. It looks like you have an EGR delete plug for the temp sensor and resistor mod, but the EGR is still there. So if the EGR valve is still there, you're still getting really hot there. 2. The spot where the wire harness melts is right below the EGR by where the pipe comes up from the exhaust manifold.
 
You're taking pictures of the wrong side of the engine. 1. It looks like you have an EGR delete plug for the temp sensor and resistor mod, but the EGR is still there. So if the EGR valve is still there, you're still getting really hot there. 2. The spot where the wire harness melts is right below the EGR by where the pipe comes up from the exhaust manifold.


Oof of course I am 🤦🏻‍♂️

I'll check it out again thank you.

I actually have the hoses plugged going to the egr with ball bearings, that doesn't block it off?
 
When you plug off the vacuum lines with ball bearings, you are stopping the vacuum from actuating the modulator. I believe you are effectively keeping the egr valve always closed by stopping the flow of exhaust through your egr valve into the intake, but what about the heat and exhaust that is going up the pipe to the egr valve? The only way to eliminate that heat is to block off the egr at the intake and exhaust manifolds. Mine egr works as intended, but I have seen enough burnt wire harnesses by that spot, so I insulated it with some high temperature reflective tape.
 

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