desmogging an 84 2f

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does any one know how to properly remove the air/smog pump from an 84 landcruiser with fj60 motor? have tried looking the web, but i never get closer than " i desmogged mine". live in non-emissioned controlled area, and need a breakdown, as this will be the first time i have worked on this time of engine. i have also heard of companies selling kits to do this, but have as of yet to find one. thanks for your time.
 
never heard of a "kit"

but look in the tech section and you will find some info and diagrams(from Jim C. I recall) on how to properly desmog a 2F

now I gotta ask why you want to?

John
 
This issue has been debated a lot on this board.

Do a search and you should come up with some good information.
 
SOR sells a smog pump replacement pulley
 
Either desmog the whole banana or not. All the equipment is made to work together, incl EGR valve/cooler, air rail, 8.6 miles of vac hose, smog pump, 16 types of switches, an Apple 2E era "computer," speed sensor, etc etc. All or none. I prefer none on the trail for simplicity and accessability. But if I had a sweet runnin one smogged, I would leave it alone; milage and power gains will be next to nothing and you may end up with one that does not run as good as it does now. If you desmog, plug all vac ports with real VacuTite fittings (Autozone; the smallest ones) for good seals. You can modify you smog pump brackets to accept a GM 105 Amp alternator out of an 84 Camaro; use the 2nd alt as a pivot point for the water pump. Then have dual alt/dual batt. Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.
 
"Either desmog the whole banana or not. "

Sage advice, to a point. Some people mistake certain things for emissions equipment, such as the A/C high idle solenoid or high altitude compensator - know what you are intending to remove and how it works. Some people also remove things associated with smog that really need to be there, such as the vapor canister (removal can cause fuel tank pressure problems) or the emissions computer (which controls the idle cut solenoid on the carb).

"You can modify you smog pump brackets to accept a GM 105 Amp alternator out of an 84 Camaro"

One-wire Delco from JC Whitney will work also - might be an easier unit to wire.


In the end, to really get the best benefit from a desmog you should remove the cat, possibly alter the stock timing, and use a different heat range spark plug.
 
When you say different heat range plug would that be hotter or cooler?
 
85CruiserGuy said:
When you say different heat range plug would that be hotter or cooler?
Can't remember (2F is long gone). Jim C. gave a ND part number. Might search on LCML archives.
 
i am not an expert so use at your own risk, but the toyota parts micro has the same plug listed for canadia(never been smogged) and usa(fully smogged up) spec 2f
 
beaufort-fj60 said:
the toyota parts micro has the same plug listed for canadia(never been smogged) and usa(fully smogged up) spec 2f
Not sure how to read the table, but my understanding is that for the 60 series Canada never got the gasser (2F) and the US never got the diesel (B and H).
 
I can help. There are varying degrees of desmog. It can be detailed and depends upon your abilities as a "wrench" to some degree. Knowing what to remove and plug is a big part. There should probably be a manual written about this...with photos would be helpful. You can glean much information from various forums, but really need an experienced person to give some guideance. My personal experience is going from about 11mpg town to 12mpg; about 14mpg highway. Don't expect miracles. Replacing all the vacuum hose did more to help the engine run properly.
 
The normal plug is a W14EXR-U ... the suggested you refer to was a W16EXR-U ... which is a cooler plug. I have both and can not tell a difference.
 
fj60dave said:
W16EXR-U ... which is a cooler plug.
That sounds right. I think the rationale for changing the plugs had to do with longevity and not so much driveability. I think the rationale was that deleting the EGR changed combustion temperatures (raised them) and caused the plugs to wear out faster.

This change in combustion temp is also why the dizzy advance curve (at least for folks at low altitude) needs to be changed because detontation is more likely with the higher temps.
 
A question that never seems to be asked or answered in this desmog debate is how headers enter into the equation.

In my opinion, there are various 6:1 header options out there but it is unclear which part of the emissions system is effected. If you install headers...you effectively have removed your egr cooler lines, egr cooler and egr....what else needs to be changed in order to get the benefits of the header?

Can anyone shed light on this?
 
vtcruiser60 said:
A question that never seems to be asked or answered in this desmog debate is how headers enter into the equation.

In my opinion, there are various 6:1 header options out there but it is unclear which part of the emissions system is effected. If you install headers...you effectively have removed your egr cooler lines, egr cooler and egr....what else needs to be changed in order to get the benefits of the header?

Can anyone shed light on this?
MAF and SOR I think both sell (or at least used to) "smog headers" that had an EGR input. I helped a friend install a MAF set on his 60. They, in short, sucked. After spending hours trying to get the EGR pipe to the flange and numerous calls to MAF they finally admitted that they hadn't "actually" installed a set on a 60. So caveat emptor.

In my opinion a useful desmog includes a header and free flow exhaust to get the best effect. I've also heard that removing the smog pump will eventually cause the CAT to plug up and fail.
 
CruiserGreg,

Let me get this straight...... MAF is selling a set of headers with an EGR drop on them for $400-ish that they don't even know if it works while claiming that, "cheap headers = a free headache" or somtheing??? Ohhhh man..... This just keeps getting worse and worse. I've been debating whether to resmog my 2F or gutt all the remaining smog crap altogether and get a TBI set up with a CAT and let the computer take care of the emissions with the sensors... But regardless of which way I go, I want to keep my headers AND reinstall the EGR system. How hard is it to test install something before selling it for the second highest price on the market??

As it turns out.. SOR makes the smog headers apparently for the 40 only.

I should just save my pennies and go diesel........

By the way... do the MAF smog headers work?

Take it easy..... but take it.

Nick
 

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