desmog a 78 fj40

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Nov 30, 2008
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Location
Monroe VA
I'm in the need for a carb rebuild, and I would like to get the smog junk off it. The PO had removed the belt and I just want to get rid of all the other stuff that goes with it. Not to mention I am planning on putting power steering on it and, I'll be mounting the pump in the smog pump location. Who does the carb rebuilds to desmog them, and what will need to be done to the engine to get that right?

I appreiciate any info.

Mike
 
That's good, I need more info though. That's not the easiest of directions or doesn't tell me about anybody that can do it for me. If I was do it myself I would need more info then that, I'm just a back yard mechanic.
 
That's good, I need more info though. That's not the easiest of directions or doesn't tell me about anybody that can do it for me. If I was do it myself I would need more info then that, I'm just a back yard mechanic.

You are either going to have to do it yourself or find a friend to help you. Good luck finding a shop who is going to do it for you. It is really pretty simple. Decide what, if any of the emissions systems you want to keep, and remove the rest. If you were closer to NOVA there are many of us in the area who could help you. If you come up for one of the local events there are many of us who can give you direction. The IPOR swap meet is next weekend in Fredericksburg and CMCC is in July up in PA.
 
I could probably do it myself with some good direction. I didn't know if there was something special that had to be done to the carb. that I couldn't do. If someone could send me some step by step direction I could do it.
 
I have desmogged a 2F from this era and it's pretty straight forward.

Send your carb and distributor to JimC and tell him you are desmogging. He will rebuild and modify the carb and recurve the distributer to have a bit less advance (because you are removing the EGR).

Remove the EGR valve, cooler, tubing, hoses and plug the outlet on the EM and the inlet on the carb base (Jim may do this for you, I forget). Remove the air rail, and air injectors in the head and plug the holes with the Toyota factory plugs $$$ or the plugs supplied by JimC $. The factory ones are better, Jim's are 1/10th the price. Your choice.

Remove the airpump and all of it's hoses. Plug the aircleaner hole where the air injection hose used to be.

Remove the ABV and all the VSVs that run it.

Leave the charcoal canister

Then reinstall your rebuilt carb and distributor. There will be 1 ported vacuum port on your carb-use that to hook to the vacuum advance on your distributor. Set timing to stock and forget about it.

Expect the carb work to run around $300 and the distributor work to run about $100. As far as I know, Jim is the only one re-curving the distributers and has the fancy machine to do it right. His service are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. He has done 3 carbs and 2 distributors for me.

Pitfall-It is common for the small body electronic distributor vacuum advance diaphragm to be shot. They are not available anywhere at any price. If that is the case, it's a good time to upgrade to the FJ60 large cap distributor and the vacuum pot is still available from Toyota. You will need a new indented side cover as well.
 
It isn't worth the time and effort to take all that stuff off and get it to work properly. Just remove the air pump and the associated plumbing, plug the EGR vacuum actuator line, plug the distributor vacuum retardline and you are done. It is cheap and easy and useful stuff like the power valve and throttle positioner will still work properly.
 

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