DenverLX 16' LX570 Build Thread (2 Viewers)

[kyle94109]

Found a Youtube video that showed how you can reset your car to leave it in the 'High' position. However they noted it'll be a rougher ride, so he recommended just doing it whenever you're off roading, then switching back for normal day to day driving.

 

[DenverLX]

To be honest, I try and not put it in High unless I need too. The ride is really rough, even when Im off-road I leave it in Normal until there is something that justifies raising the truck.

 

[TeCKis300]

To be honest, I try and not put it in High unless I need too. The ride is really rough, even when Im off-road I leave it in Normal until there is something that justifies raising the truck.

Saw your comment in the offroad armor thread about rough ride and high speeds. Perhaps a couple tips to help narrow things down.

- Try Sport damping mode. Counterintuitive, but with larger and heavier wheel/tire packages and stiff sidewalls, the added damping can help control wheel movement keeping the tires more firmly on the road. Resulting in more control and a smoother ride at speed.

- If Sport damping doesn't change anything, could also be a combination of too much sensor lift with too much payload. This can possibly have the AHC accumulators bottoming out, leading to the skittish or brittle ride. Solution here is to help AHC by pre-loading the coil springs. You can use OEM LC shock spacers on the front end. 30mm trim packers on the rear springs.

 

[AnyMal]

Found a Youtube video that showed how you can reset your car to leave it in the 'High' position. However they noted it'll be a rougher ride, so he recommended just doing it whenever you're off roading, then switching back for normal day to day driving.

I sincerely don't recommend anyone do this. You are basically pressurizing the system and pulling the plug.
We currently have no real override of the auto height speed limits.

 

[DenverLX]

My front bumper had a slot for a light bar and while I didn’t really think I needed additional lights, I thought I would fill the gap. The bumper is so low profile that it is not possible to mount any of the new style round lights up there. Then I thought about how the Rigid lights on the side wings of the bumper really are not appropriate for fog lights since they aim outward. So I then decided to add some amber fog lights. And then I decided I needed a slick solution for mounting the light switches.

So I started thinking I didn't need any lights and ended up with more than I ever thought I would have... I guess I should be use to this by now, I constantly say that the truck is finished and then I go and find more s*** to do to it. I want to say that in general I think excessive lighting is almost as stupid as roof top tents, and I didn't want to make my LX look like some jacked up GMC with light bars all over, so hopefully I did this tastefully.... The lights are tucked into the bumper nicely, looks like they are supposed to be there, Im happy with how it turned out.

Lights: When it comes to lights its pretty clear to me that the pecking order is Baja Designs, then other expensive brands like Rigid, then medium price brands that are identical to the cheapest brands and then there is the unapologetic, cheap Chinese lights. For the light bar, I went with the cheap Chinese light off Amazon and it is perfect. I just didn't want to spend a grand on a nice Baja light and everything else out there is the same as a $50 Chinese light IMO.

I bought a Nilight 30inch, single row bar, and the Nilight wiring harness. The wiring harness is way better than the one rigid supplied with their lights, it was so nice that I ordered another one to replace the cheap, and way to short Rigid wiring harness that didn't even include a relay.

The fog lights are the Baja Amber squadron sport. They are high quality and impressive. Way, way nicer and brighter than the Rigid lights.

Mounting the Lights: The light bar slot cut into the Dissent Bumper was for a Rigid light. I thought I would just roll the dice on a cheap Chinese light and fabricate some mounting hardware to fit into the threaded mounting holes in the dissent. And I guess I got lucky, The supplied mounts nearly fit out of the box. I ended up having to grind away a tiny amount of metal off the sides and top of the mounting tab and then hit it with a blast of black spray paint and the entire thing fit into the bumper as it they were designed for each other. I was stoked on how easy it was.

The Baja's were even easier. The Baja lights have a swivel mount on the bottom and all I had to do was drill a hole into the angled part of the bumper near the hole cut out. This was aluminum so it drilled very easy. The lights are tucked away into the bumper but still have a great angles to shoot light out. I think it came out great.

 

[DenverLX]

Switches: Next I had to find a way to mount some switches in the cab. I know about all the fancy options like the sPod and Switch Pro, but I am not about to drop hundreds on switches. First off, I only have 3 sets of lights, I do not plan on adding anything else at this time. (I carry an air compressor, don't have lockers, don't have a winch, and when Im camping I have a headlamp so there is no need for lights at every possible location). Second, I don't like clutter in or around the dash. This LX is so damn nice inside and I want it to stay that way. I hate cell phone mounts, wires of any kind, I even shut the cup holder lid when its not in use. I hate extra stuff laying around in the cab. And finally, I like buttons, I don't want screen, I like real buttons for stuff.

So I decided I would order the Toyota push buttons from Aironboard.com. The 900 series switches in the light blue color match the factory look perfectly. I picked out 3 switches that matched my needs and ordered the 3 switch panel for the 900 series buttons. Switch Panel 3900 Universal 3P Push Switch Panel - https://www.aironboard.com/online/switch-panel-3900-universal-3p-push-switch-panel.html

I wasn't sure where or how I would mount it because the dash of the LX is a very busy place and there are buttons and other things in every conceivable location and not really any open space. But I had been thinking about the little pop out pocket drawer thing (I will call it the pocket drawer bc I don't know what else to call it) to the left of the steering wheel. I do actually use that thing to store cash and change but it was really the best option available and it was right next to the firewall passthrough that my wires were coming in from. I took apart the dash and eventually go the drawer out of there, although it was a pain in the ass and I couldn't figure out how to get the whole unit out.

The pocket drawer is absolutely perfect for switches. It holds three across and has the perfect depth for the switches and wiring. And the way it swivels open allows for wires to easily pass through the back of it with out getting jammed on anything. I cut the sides of the drawer out till the brakes sat flush and there was room for the top of the buttons to clear. I mostly used a dremel tool. I was planning on using the screw holes in the bracket as the holes lined up nearly perfect with the walls of the pocket drawer. I thought that I could just add some additional material that way the screws had some thing to bit into. I use a 2 part urethane adhesive (built for plastics) at work all the time that I am convinced is as useful as duct tape. It is thick and sets up in 90 secs so it is good for building up plastic. I started tacking down the bracket and then it occurred to me that I didn't even need to use metal screws at all. I just used the adhesive as if I was welding the bracket in place. It looks damn good in person, even better than the pictures.

The inside of the cabin looks completely stock and the switches are convenient, properly labeled and hidden. I really liked this little mod.

Rough Cut:

Test fit:

 

[DenverLX]

Glued in the bracket:

All wired up and finished:

Closed and looks completely stock

 

[DenverLX]

 

[swampfox14]

How has the pedal commander worked for you?

 

[jhoe]

It is a 2016 LX570 in Nightfall Mica with the Cabernet interior. I bought it in 2019 with 28k miles and it currently has ~65k. It has what I consider the perfect options list. I has the Heads up display, the luxury package, Mark Lev sound, wireless charger, and heated steering wheel. However it does not have the rear seat screens and the Cool Box, both of which I really did not want.

I have been driving Land Cruisers for over 15 years and honestly there isn't another vehicle that meets my needs. I road trip constantly so its got to be comfortable and have a lot of cargo room. I tow a trailer thousands of miles a year, mostly in Colorado, so it needs to be powerful (4 runners are too weak). I Offroad consistently (other full size SUV's cannot really Offroad) I live in downtown Denver and work at hospitals so a full size truck is difficult to park (I really thought about a raptor but they literally don't fit in the parking lot at my office or hospital). I take clients out and the Lexus impresses. I can't think of another vehicle that does all that.

Modifications:
Sensor lift
TRD Rock Warrior wheels, 5
285 (33") Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac ATs
Slee Sliders
Rear seat delete
Tint front windows
ARB drawers system
Rear Hatch LED light
Yakima roof bars
Yakima accessories (ski rack, roof box, and fly rod holder)
Lexus rubber floor mats
Pedal Commander
Dissent Front Bumper
Dissent Rear Bumper with Tire swing arm and Tray swing arm
Rigid lights, other lighting
Lots of stuff inside the drawers like air compressor, tool kits, recovery gear, ext

Hey brother. Beautiful LX.
I bought the same one in 2016 and I am making big changes to it. I wanted to ask you if you put any liftkit to lift it or did you just gain the 1.5 from the AHC sensor? My idea is lift it more 4inchs

Thanks

 

[nimitz]

Killer write up and awesome build man! I think you helped me decide which 200 to go with haha.