Death Wobble?

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Oct 7, 2005
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Columbia, SC
I was just sitting here with my tire shaking still on my mind from the other day trying to figure out the order of steps to start eliminating it. Now that I reflect, I can't think of any reason why I would have disengaged the front drive-shaft before pulling out on the hwy or I definitely would have not disengaged the hubs. Could this be the start of all the problems seeing as I am locked, with a less than perfect pinion angle on the front.

Just brainstorming at work. The list right now is:

Retorque every bolt on the front-end, lower air pressure to 7.5 psi, adjust toe-in, and add 8 oz. of RV (drinkable) anti-freeze to each tire. I guess I need to add disengage all 4wd to the top of the list first.:)

Jeremy
 
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Well, not a 4wd issue as the hubs were unlocked.:bang:

Now to test after the rain stops tomorrow after tightening everything down, then trying with lower pressure, then try the fluid, and lastly swap tires front to back one at a time in case a rim is worse than others.


To be continued...
Jeremy
 
It's what ever Proffitts Cruisers set them up at. I bought the axle already C/T by them. I did move the axle a little further torwards the front than stock, and used stock shackles thru the frame so it could have moved the caster a little from where PC set it up at. However, I doubt it made that much of a difference. I can check it again, but I believe I put the level on it before and it was within range for a SOA rig.

Now toe-in may be something I need to check again. I did it in the garage, and while I might have gotten close enough for the skinnier Swampers on stock wheels, it may not be enough toe-in for these wider, heavier tires.

Jeremy
 
Um, i'm no expert but I thought FJ40's should have like 0* to -something* of caster... That was what I thought... Mine with Caster Correction shims sits at like 0* to -1* and is smooth. I'll let Marshall weigh in on this as he is the expert on these
 
Um, i'm no expert but I thought FJ40's should have like 0* to -something* of caster... That was what I thought... Mine with Caster Correction shims sits at like 0* to -1* and is smooth. I'll let Marshall weigh in on this as he is the expert on these

5 is about right with big tires.

Mine is at 6.
 
Stock is 1*, you want it to lay further back so the vehicles tracks straight down the rode because it is lifted higher with bigger tires. Think of a drag car it has crazy caster so it stays straight down the track. Anything under 10* is not considered extreme, it just helps tremendously. Most shops like ACC setup the SOA fronts between 4*-6*.

Jeremy
 
WOW!!!! that's a lot
Should have the tires squalling going down the road.
 
I adjusted the toe-in to 1/8-1/4 saturday but just tonight got a chance to test her out. She is MUCH better now. I was able to get the V8 to 4th gear for the first time. I drove around the development for about 15 minutes first under 35 to get the tires armed up and I did still notice a DW at 35+. Nothing that wasn't manageable though. After the tires warmed up it pretty much went away. If it did start to shimmy the wheel the slightest little bit, I would hit the gas and it would level out. I am running the tires at 10 psi, and I think I am going to try a little more air just to be sure before I add any fluid the tires. It is fine the way it is, I just wouldn't trust anyone else to drive it as you have to know how to power through the shake.

She did ride smooth and I got her up to 45. I drove her a mile from the house, first step before I start driving her around town.:bounce::bounce:

The redneck ram hydro assist steering I just got should take out any shake that is left. Just got to find time to weld up a mounting bracket for the ram.

Jeremy
 
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