- Thread starter
- #21
Yes, just waiting for final geometry steps just in case I need to rotate them .
You have a really good eye And please do not hold anything back in case you see something else .
Dean’s 80 no more, now LX-450
- Thread starter dr_dobro
- Start date
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Yes, just waiting for final geometry steps just in case I need to rotate them .
You have a really good eye And please do not hold anything back in case you see something else .
Alright. People know how to turn Land Cruisers into tanks. Not bad...
I love the idea of this as an educational thing. I would see where it goes. I bet there is a business in there somewhere for someone with those fab skills.
I love the idea of this as an educational thing. I would see where it goes. I bet there is a business in there somewhere for someone with those fab skills.
@dr_dobro This is how you start a build thread, nice work! I'll be following along closely to see how this progresses. I was also going to comment on those coil buckets but I'm sure you know to reinforce them as the entire weight of the truck is riding on those perches.
What kind of driveshaft do you need to run with a centered diff housing? And how are you mounting the shocks?
And you're right, it will be hard to get the suspension to flex like that once stiff coils are in place.
In this photo where the link hits the frame, how likely is it that you would even compress the coils that much? And where would your tire be in relation to the rear fender? What I'm getting at is, perhaps just set your bumpstop/shock height to limit up-travel just before the link hits the frame. Might not be worth the hassle to cut and notch when in reality you might not ever flex the suspenion that much due to stiff coils and tire clearance in the fender.
That's what I plan to do as well because I'm sure my links will interfere with the frame too. I plan on setting the bump stop height to stop anything from hitting the frame and gas tank. And I think it will work well because a 37" tire can only go so far into the rear fenders unless you re-tub the cab. So I'd rather limit up-travel a bit and make up for it with additional down-travel.
This is Nukegoat's picture, but since I'll be running coilovers my plan is to push the lower link out even more towards the end of the axle. And as you can visualize this will probably quickly hit the frame at full compression. This is what I will need to limit with my bump stops.
What kind of driveshaft do you need to run with a centered diff housing? And how are you mounting the shocks?
And you're right, it will be hard to get the suspension to flex like that once stiff coils are in place.
In this photo where the link hits the frame, how likely is it that you would even compress the coils that much? And where would your tire be in relation to the rear fender? What I'm getting at is, perhaps just set your bumpstop/shock height to limit up-travel just before the link hits the frame. Might not be worth the hassle to cut and notch when in reality you might not ever flex the suspenion that much due to stiff coils and tire clearance in the fender.
That's what I plan to do as well because I'm sure my links will interfere with the frame too. I plan on setting the bump stop height to stop anything from hitting the frame and gas tank. And I think it will work well because a 37" tire can only go so far into the rear fenders unless you re-tub the cab. So I'd rather limit up-travel a bit and make up for it with additional down-travel.
This is Nukegoat's picture, but since I'll be running coilovers my plan is to push the lower link out even more towards the end of the axle. And as you can visualize this will probably quickly hit the frame at full compression. This is what I will need to limit with my bump stops.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
@jcardona1, @dr_dobro , Part of the reason you guys may be needing the lower link so high on the axle tube is because of the lack of lower link triangulation. If you triangulate the lower more, you can get away with lowering the mount point on the axle. If you can lower the mount point on the axle, you have more uptravel before hitting the frame.
Jose - I doubt you'll have problems with link interference. But for both of you (and @richardlillard1), I would do it like this:
1) Stuff the tire until it's at the limit of it's travel
2) Figure out the highest point you can put the link on the frame (crossmember, whatever).
3) hold the link up to the axle until it's 1/8" below whatever it's going to hit (or more, if you like)
4) adjust the "y" dimension of the axle or crossmember mounts as needed to get proper roll axis and clearances.
Jose - I doubt you'll have problems with link interference. But for both of you (and @richardlillard1), I would do it like this:
1) Stuff the tire until it's at the limit of it's travel
2) Figure out the highest point you can put the link on the frame (crossmember, whatever).
3) hold the link up to the axle until it's 1/8" below whatever it's going to hit (or more, if you like)
4) adjust the "y" dimension of the axle or crossmember mounts as needed to get proper roll axis and clearances.
- Thread starter
- #25
@dr_dobro This is how you start a build thread, nice work! I'll be following along closely to see how this progresses. I was also going to comment on those coil buckets but I'm sure you know to reinforce them as the entire weight of the truck is riding on those perches.
R:
Many thanks ! And for sure, I have some plates for the coil mount. I found out I need to move them back about 1/4”, then will add the necessary support. So funny that one tack weld cracked while I was testing the coils.
What kind of driveshaft do you need to run with a centered diff housing? And how are you mounting the shocks?
R:
Definitely a double cardan as I am pointing the pinion up since I have the low 9”
And you're right, it will be hard to get the suspension to flex like that once stiff coils are in place.
In this photo where the link hits the frame, how likely is it that you would even compress the coils that much? And where would your tire be in relation to the rear fender? What I'm getting at is, perhaps just set your bumpstop/shock height to limit up-travel just before the link hits the frame. Might not be worth the hassle to cut and notch when in reality you might not ever flex the suspenion that much due to stiff coils and tire clearance in the fender.
R:
That shows the maximum up travel which is really good at 7.5” from ride height. I don’t think you, me or anyone will ever hit the frame unless we do a monster truck jump
As for the tire/fender combination I am not 100% sure yet, I have order the tires and should be here sometime this month, for sure will test, ideally will be great to cut and eliminate the entire rear well and re make a new taller no to limit the suspension, but way too much work..... the other one is running bigger tires like the 42’s nukegoat has, I assume he rubs on the filler pipe which I think I will re locate, @nukegoat perhaps you can chime in this as I can’t remember ?
I was going to order 42’s until I started looking into his thread, looks very tight, specially on the front !
That's what I plan to do as well because I'm sure my links will interfere with the frame too. I plan on setting the bump stop height to stop anything from hitting the frame and gas tank. And I think it will work well because a 37" tire can only go so far into the rear fenders unless you re-tub the cab. So I'd rather limit up-travel a bit and make up for it with additional down-travel.
R:
Yes I agree, definitely limit the uptravel. It’s a little sad but no other choice. One of my pictures showing the stuffed 37 into the well, was fantastic, suspension was doing its job, perhaps if you keep the wms stock you still might be able to achieve it ?
This is Nukegoat's picture, but since I'll be running coilovers my plan is to push the lower link out even more towards the end of the axle. And as you can visualize this will probably quickly hit the frame at full compression. This is what I will need to limit with my bump stops.
R:
Both of you guys will have longer lower links than myself, I am not positive what will happen with the driver side under the gas tank, but for sure you don’t have to worry about the frame if you kick out as much as you can on the axle for better triangulation. I think I got something close to 15 degrees per side.
- Thread starter
- #26
I have the lower axle mount link almost flush with the top of the axle tube and so far no issues
Took notes last nigh an
- Thread starter
- #27
- Thread starter
- #28
Now that I added the full weight of the car, my links ended up a little higher than anticipated. I will take the extra added weight in consideration and will subtract one inch of the geometry equation. I will have to move the upper frame mount down to push the links facing downhill. Going to custom make a adjustable U bracket that will make my life easier to mount this upper brackets. Will also make the separation greater than 30 degrees to make the link a little longer.
Tested the fuel tank and all cleared with the exemption of the tank skid plate which I have to notch where the driver lower link is.
Pinion angle seemed to be at the same position while I was cycling the suspension, pretty happy so far.
I am off 1/32” towards driver side from not being 100% centered, but it might be the floor not being true.
Tested the fuel tank and all cleared with the exemption of the tank skid plate which I have to notch where the driver lower link is.
Pinion angle seemed to be at the same position while I was cycling the suspension, pretty happy so far.
I am off 1/32” towards driver side from not being 100% centered, but it might be the floor not being true.
- Thread starter
- #29
Forgot to mention about the shock relocation, I am going to go trough the bolt that hold s the upper plate closer to the frame. Drill it out so the strut can go trough, this way I will gain more stability over stock. Not sure what to do on the bottom yet as I have to calculate the center of both shock and suspension travel.
Definitely keeping the dobinsons, @David Otero and his team are defined one of a kind, they helped me out on a strut issue I had, not many business like them !
Definitely keeping the dobinsons, @David Otero and his team are defined one of a kind, they helped me out on a strut issue I had, not many business like them !
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
You cant run a dc rear driveshaft with a centered diff.
I've read that DC shafts aren't happy when offset horizontally but I have no first hand experience.
- Thread starter
- #33
I have done it before with success, now that you guys are mentioning it is making me nervous. For sure if the DC shaft doesn't exceed their limit angles (no binding) it should be fine. In my situation, the DS will be aprox. 43" long, the offset seemes to be about 6-7" have to verify that, probably about 7*?
At the end, the car will be a wheeler, but hoping to get 65mph with no vibrations. There's a some vehicles that were engineered this way including and early 40 series (without a cv) I think?
- Thread starter
- #34
Here’s a small update,
Re did the uppers by spreading the angle on the axle to its maximum. I have 41* of triangulation for each axle tab. This allowed me to have longer uppers while gaining more lateral. I also did some quick frame mounts in order to lower the frame mounts to improve my geometry numbers
Cycled the suspension again and ready to burn all chassis mounts.
Final link numbers
Re did the uppers by spreading the angle on the axle to its maximum. I have 41* of triangulation for each axle tab. This allowed me to have longer uppers while gaining more lateral. I also did some quick frame mounts in order to lower the frame mounts to improve my geometry numbers
Cycled the suspension again and ready to burn all chassis mounts.
Final link numbers
- Thread starter
- #36
A lot of thought, measuring and back and forth rrips under the car (I have no lift) has paid off, everything is very tight but seems to be working fine without any binding.
I gave as much triangulation as I could to the lowers, but if I ever lose a lower axle joint, I will be in for the trail/street for a few more extra minutes. In order to extract the bolt, I need to remove the unit hub ...... the only way to get that few extra degrees. This lead meof to purchase the stage 8 Dana 60 locking set. The oem one is a pita trying to find the pin guide specially in the dark.... this kit is a breeze!
Pictures shows differences between the stock and cut off wheel well as axle is sitting back a couple of inches from original form
I gave as much triangulation as I could to the lowers, but if I ever lose a lower axle joint, I will be in for the trail/street for a few more extra minutes. In order to extract the bolt, I need to remove the unit hub ...... the only way to get that few extra degrees. This lead meof to purchase the stage 8 Dana 60 locking set. The oem one is a pita trying to find the pin guide specially in the dark.... this kit is a breeze!
Pictures shows differences between the stock and cut off wheel well as axle is sitting back a couple of inches from original form
- Thread starter
- #37
Couldn’t use the Dobinsons as planned, so I bought some bilsteins (much narrower tube)
I am in need to figure out a removable protective shield for the shock.
Ready to do the axle plumbing followed by taking the transfer case apart to Install the part time and reduction gear
I am in need to figure out a removable protective shield for the shock.
Ready to do the axle plumbing followed by taking the transfer case apart to Install the part time and reduction gear
- Thread starter
- #38
Almost there with the rear, swapped the T case gears with the part time, installed the fuel tank with skid which I notched under the lower frame mount and upper frame mount. I probably have 5/8” of clearance from tank hitting metal. Driveshaft looks like it will be single joints, there plenty of room before joints are in bind, this will save me some $.
I made a mistake by rattle can the housing with a hammer paint I had, when I second coated it with satin paint, the entire paint job cracked!!!!! I knew this, but wasn’t really paying attention until it happened so I left it as is .... a little faux finish made the piece to be more desirable
I made a mistake by rattle can the housing with a hammer paint I had, when I second coated it with satin paint, the entire paint job cracked!!!!! I knew this, but wasn’t really paying attention until it happened so I left it as is .... a little faux finish made the piece to be more desirable
- Thread starter
- #39
Rear suspension turned out to be great, took it for a spin before tearing the front apart. It felt so much better than stock, ride totally change to be as smooth as an old Cadillac.
Also tested the articulation for potencial issues and found I need to relocate the axle shock mounts and create some sort of removable hold down for the coil axle mounts as they were trying to come Off.
Also tested the articulation for potencial issues and found I need to relocate the axle shock mounts and create some sort of removable hold down for the coil axle mounts as they were trying to come Off.
- Thread starter
- #40
I pushed over that 20” in that pic to 22” and coil came out loose. The stock front suspension binds so much that twisted the truck on a funny angle. I hope this gets corrected with the new geometry
