Dealer installed york ac compressor (1 Viewer)

[hote]

Hello ya'll. Long time lurker first time poster. First of all this forum is such a wealth of info, the search feature is most likely the reason I have not yet posted. I have found all that I needed to know there. However this time I could not find what I was searching for.
This all started with a very wobbly PS pulley.
So I want to add OBA to our 85 fj60 via a York210 AC compressor from an 84 Volvo. I have found lots of good info on this just not quite what I was looking for. Actually found one post with an fj40.
I am interested using the early Dealer installed York bracket from early 60's 81 - 83. However I have only read about the dealer set up, not actually seen it to know if it would work well for this purpose. Apparently the alternator mounts under the compressor using the same bracket. Also I think the belt goes around the ALT and compressor, but I do not know which crank groove it would run. I have already installed a Saginaw PS pump in place of the smog pump. It runs in the middle crank groove. So the large diameter groove nearest to the block is open, can I run the PS pump there if I need to, any prob with the larger diameter.
I have removed the factory AC, (a shop bought the R12 from the system so the labor was free to reclaim it) don't really need AC here.
So any knowledge would be greatly appreciated and if someone has or could take some pics of the dealer set up and belt arrangement that would be awesome.
Any reason why this would not be a bolt on mod?
Does anyone know a PN of the belt for the dealer York installation?
Does anyone have the dealer bracket they would like to sell? I will check classifieds.
I am a metalworker/ fabricator so making brackets is not an issue, time is the issue. The cruiser is a daily driver and we have a 2yr old. And this seems like it might be a clean install.
Here is a pic of the Hotecruiser.
Thanx for all the info!!

 

[Output Shaft]

The easiest way to have an engine pulley driven air compressor is to use the existing Toyota AC compressor (if you don't mind losing your AC). It pumps air like a champ. I have used mine like that for over 15 years. It is SUPER fast, way faster than ANY 12volt compressor.. and it is already in the perfect spot. All you need is a cheap small inline lubricator (which can be found at any compressor shop) on the intake to provide an oil drip to the air supply, and a small moisture/oil separator on the outlet side to help remove the oil blow-by. You can also plumb/wire it to use for ARB air lockers too, with a small remote tank and ARB pressure switch connected to the magnetic clutch. The ARB pressure switch can handle the amp draw from the AC magnetic clutch. It is, without question, the Cat's Meow and I wish I had converted it over 25 years ago.
I use regular/conventional air compressor oil which is similar to 30wt motor oil. Am wary of using synthetic, though have never used it.
I have repaired my tires (too) often in mexico (dismounting to patch from the inside using Safety Seal + Liquid Patch) and there never was any oily film inside the tire that I noticed.

Pros:
Super Fast.. faster than any 12V air compressor.. or the ones at gas stations.
Super reliable
Quiet

Cons: Loss of AC.

 

[Cruzerman]

Haven't done OBA on my 60, but I have on my 40 and here are a few things that may be helpful. Although all York compressors put out lots of air, there are three models: long stroke, medium stroke, short stroke. As you would guess, the long stroke puts out more air. I feel that if you're going to do this, you might as well use the long stroke. I think most Volvo are long stroke. Here's an article that gives some information on determining which you have:

http://www.mudinyerioffroad.com/yorkOBA.htm

Another thing I learned, there are lots of good sources for air tanks. I visited a truck / big rig wrecking yard and they had tanks of all sizes all over the place. Trucks use air brakes and thus have air tanks. These are nice since they come in a wide variety of sizes, and often have things such as pressure popoff valve, petcock for draining water, and mounting tabs / straps. Also, fire extinguishers can make great tanks. Extinguishers have to be replaced every so often by law, so your local fire suppression company should have tons of these sitting around. Mine will give them away if you're nice.

HTH

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Output shaft,
My 62 came with the AC disconnected and the compressor just sits there. I'd love to covert it but my knowledge of the components you discussed is rudimentary.

Would you mind sharing a bit more of how you plumbed the components together?

 

[Output Shaft]

My 62 came with the AC disconnected and the compressor just sits there. I'd love to covert it but my knowledge of the components you discussed is rudimentary.

Would you mind sharing a bit more of how you plumbed the components together?

----
I'll try…
Now that I see what I have written.. it is way too long…. Sorry. The picture below kind of sums it up. Ignore the text below it unless you really have nothing else better to do.

Air Filter screwed into oiler

The most important thing to remember when using an AC compressor to fill up your tires is that it is REAL FAST.
The air flow does not slow down with higher pressures. If you have a clip-on air chuck to your wheel valve stem and don't have a way to monitor the tire pressure WHILE YOUR ARE FILLING IT, it will only take a short time to explode the tire. Want to step away for a moment to take a piss while the tire is filling?… Don't do it!

I installed two valve stems in each wheel opposite to each other. One gets the air compressor with clip on chuck, the other gets a POWERTANK pressure gauge with clip on chuck. This arrangement also helps a lot for airing down too and when one valve is under mud/water. A combo gauge/filler could be used if there is only one valve stem. I like two stem set up way mo betta.
When one tire is airing up, I can (quickly) go over to the next tire to remove the valve caps. By the time I have screwed them off and returned to the filling tire. It is full or nearly full… It is that fast. There is no waiting around and you've got to move quickly.

Background:
The AC compressor is turned on and off by energizing it's spring loaded electo-magnetic clutch. The black wire coming out of the top of the compressor on FJ60-62's and most cars is it's power source. When this wire is connected to 12 volts +, the electromagnet energizes and locks the clutch to engage the pulley. When power is disconnected, the internal clutch spring pulls the clutch away, allowing the pulley to spin free, stopping the compressor.
If the AC button on the dash is still working, you could use that switch to turn on & off the compressor. Or you could rewire it's power to work with the ARB compressor's on-off switch if you have one of those… or any other switch. The AC clutch draws a little less than 4 amps on the 60 series compressor.

AC compressors need to be lubricated. Normally there is compressor oil circulating around through the closed system, always lubricating the compressor. When the AC compressor is converted to an air compressor, the system is open, and oil gets blown out, so there needs to be a way to lubricate it or it will eventually burn up.

----
Method:
The way that I (and others) solved this little detail is to install a cheap air tool drip oiler to the intake line of the AC compressor. I had my doubts about this at first, but it works. When the compressor is turned on, the vacuum pulls oil up through an internal feed tube in the oiler and drips oil into the air flow. These thing-a-ma-bobs are typically adjustable with a screw knob on the top. I try to set mine to about 6 drips/ minute. I don't remember how I came up with that flow rate. Cold oil drips slower (or not at all if really cold) than hot oil. More oil means better lubrication, but more oil blow-by.

Since the compressor oil is getting blown out of the compressor, the compressed air needs to be filtered/separated, otherwise it will contain oily mist. A small, cheap water separator made for shop compressors can be used for this and it works fine for an air source that will end up in tires. It is hazardous/dangerous to inhale though, as it can contain a little oil fog or possibly a little smoke if the compressor gets real hot… as the separator is not 100% efficient. The separator needs to be drained periodically.

water/oil separator (cheap and easy to find at any compressor shop)

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Hook Up:
Since the AC system is no longer being used, the thin aluminum AC condenser in front of the radiator can be removed if desired, or left in place. Also the dryer can be chucked as well.

If left in place, the condenser can still act as a radiator impact shield for hi velocity stone/pebble collisions, but it also blocks the air flow to the radiator a bit too, as it has always done. It is your choice whether to keep it or not. I took mine out and tossed it in the trash. It gave me satisfaction seeing it lying at the bottom of the garbage can.

I kept the original AC output hose intact that runs up to the front of the car and I think I just cut off the piping to the condenser with a hack saw. From there, I tried to force thread a NPT nipple on the aluminum cut pipe and attempted to seal it with epoxy. It leaks a little bit at the thread joint. That was not the best way to do it.

Since the connection to an air hose was starting up front, it was easiest to route the hose along the back of the valence to the other side of the car up to the water/oil separator. This I mounted where it would fit. It is not like you've got a lot of places to mount/install it inside the engine compartment.

Then the air hose was fed back the way it came and ended up connected to the little ARB air tank/compressor I have installed on the right side of the engine compartment. There are, I am sure, better ways to do it and route the air line. You DON'T NEED an air tank of any sort when using this set up just for tires. If you want a controlled air source with a more steady psi for tools or something, a tank is good.

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If you have an ARB air locker:
On the little ARB air tank, I installed an ARB pressure switch/solenoid wired in series with the power line to the magnetic clutch. I wired the in-dash ARB compressor power switch to control the magnetic clutch instead of the (dead) ARB compressor. The ARB pressure solenoid then turns off the AC compressor when it reaches about 115 psi (takes a couple seconds) and turns it back on at about 85 psi if the ARB compressor switch is left on. If you want to get really fancy, you can re-wire the AC Idle Up VCV solenoid (on the FJ60) to actuate when the compressor is turned on. That way, the engine will rev up to your desired speed (set on the carburetor) when the compressor is turned on… filling the tires faster.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Thank you for sharing.

 

[White Stripe]

I use the toyota compressor. Its way more compact than a york. I don't know why the york is so popular. I have a big air tank with a pressure switch. I run impact guns, air up tires, powers my arb-whatever. When my buddy broke his birfield I got out my impact guns for him. Took him longer to jack the truck up and then back down with the hi lift than to actually replace the birfield After a I get done with a dusty trail I hook up the blow gun and blow the dust out. Its just like having a regular shop supply air system almost. My buddy tried doing that with his arb compressor, it was lame in comparison. But its not meant for much.

 

[Output Shaft]

I use the toyota compressor. Its way more compact than a york. I don't know why the york is so popular. I have a big air tank with a pressure switch. I run impact guns, air up tires, powers my arb-whatever. When my buddy broke his birfield I got out my impact guns for him. Took him longer to jack the truck up and then back down with the hi lift than to actually replace the birfield After a I get done with a dusty trail I hook up the blow gun and blow the dust out. Its just like having a regular shop supply air system almost. My buddy tried doing that with his arb compressor, it was lame in comparison. But its not meant for much.

How big of a tank (which tank?) and where did you mount it? I want to get a tank too, but don't want it inside the car. There is a narrow spot along the frame I have been eyeballing...

 

[taro]

Here are some pics from an '82 fj40. There are actually two brackets: one on the alternator side and another smaller one the other side to mount a rotating idler pulley that acts as a tensioner because with this setup, you lose the alternator belt tensioner. It runs off of the second groove from the block.

From the passenger side:



From above the compressor. You can barely see the mount for the alternator to the left.



The view from the driver's side. You can tension the belt by rotating the idler pulley with some narrow channellock pliers. I never liked this setup for adjusting the tension, but it's never given me any problems.



Another one when I still had my smog pump. Gates belt 22448 was the only belt that would work with the air pump as the bracket restricts the adjustment range of the air pump.



I don't know of they all do it, but my compressor pulley notched all of my fan blades.



Hope this helps.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, many (all?) of the aftermarkt AC compressors interfere with the fan.

That's good info from OutputShaft, re. using the pressure switch in the ARB compressor to operate a bigger compressor.

 

[White Stripe]

My tank is in my interior. I have a port for a pressure relief valve but keep putting off installing it in case the pressure switch goes bad. Some ppl use a custom sealed bumper for a tank. Or you could have your own dedicated tank along the frame rail. You could buy a busted small compressor off craigslist with a good tank and just use the tank. If you have a long narrow spot, maybe just use some long steel square or round seamless tube. Just cap off the ends with some plate n good welds and then plumb some lines to it. I have my couplers routed to a convenient spot to plug into whenever.